eddielee

Reality is that every emission is equated to CO2 and it is ridiculous! CO2 As stated earlier can be turned back to O2 with the carbon content left in plants. Other emissions cannot. I have done a lot of studying on sustainable technologies and there is no substitute for efficiency. An aeronautical engineer I spoke with agreed that fuel has an emission value and you cannot reduce that total. However, if you make that same quantity go two times as far you get half the emissions overall! CO2 equation 298 x – nitrous oxide (N2O) – I.e. Releasing 1 kg of N2O into the atmosphere is about equivalent to releasing 298 kg of CO2 ref: http://climatechangeconnection.org/emissions/co2-equivalents/

Have the alternator load tested and ensure ac voltage issues are not present too. Don't want to kill another by the off chance that is what killed it.

one recent result was the bolts in the pressure plate had backed out and caused this issue as well. If I pulled it apart I would just replace the whole thing. This includes clutch plate, pressure plate and throw out.

as I said before the reason I want to install, Schotky rectifiers now, is so that if the alternator degrades and/or goes out the rectifiers will prevent damage to the electronics, especially after installing a new component.

I am curious if there is a way to make it searchable.

Follow the diagnostic using OBD2, or your DRB2, and it should get you the info you need. The diagnostics posted are from Dodge so ignore the DRB3 aspect and follow the rest of it. If DTC P1698 exists, go to next step. If DTC P1698 does not exist, test is complete. Your scanner should clear the code if not go to the next step.

I had to look at that one again. It was actually a small installation fee, delivery is included though.

Call Dodge to get correct part # if necessary. There are the links on the left column so you don't have to flip. Select type of Trans and it will take you straight to the section you need.

Part # lookup tool They do make a tool specifically for pulling seals, however, I do as CSM said and use a screwdriver. I would recommend using a socket that fits just inside the outside diameter of the seal to hammer on so you don't ding it up and grease the seal so it slides in easier. I also recommend greasing the inside of the seal so the shaft doesn't tear up the seal before gear oil gets to it.

I might add a diode to the ground wire back to the battery so AC couldn't travel back into it.

My two cents are to find a totaled truck with low miles and no damage to the engine or trans. Pull and swap, sell the totaled truck to salvage yard. It would be much easier to pull the engine and trans together and stick it straight in to the truck with the harness attached. I know it is hard to find this exact situation, especially where it is the rear end of the truck that was damaged. However it would definitely be the easiest cheapest way to do it. A long block from a reputable source would be my next option. Then salvage yard engine and probably sell the truck. I am truly sorry you have had this experience and do not envy your situation, other than your truck would be far more worth the energy than mine. That being said I would research the first link for their reputation and call them. Maybe worth the effort Did a bit of searching and found good reviews on All-American Diesel the first link. http://www.superpages.com/bp/Albuquerque-NM/American-Diesel-Service-LLC-L0135981227.htm#reviews I would look for bad reviews though. I just looked at their FB page and it is interesting, can't find a bad review whatsoever! $4000 installed not so bad! I would see what they want for just the long block too. https://www.facebook.com/allamericandieselabq/?fref=ts

If you were in Asheville, NC I would send you over to Mason Mufflers on Haywood Rd. I would take it to him rather than even try to touch it myself! best price in town just have to make an appointment a week or so in advance. If you do find a good muffler shop they can build a complete muffler and will weld it rather than use clamps, and they will do it for less than buying a muffler from a parts house.

I was clear about it and it may have been the year that sent him over the edge, not sure. Mine is a 1999, they may do a 2000, or 2001-02. Not sure, didn't ask

Thank you very much, PM sent.

I contacted them and they said they have had bad luck with the Dodge ecm's and weren't doing them any more.

I am in Asheville, Howdy Neighbor! I have been looking a bit into what issues cause failure within the ecm's and what exactly needs to happen to repair them. I want to find out what components are within the ecm and whether or not they are available through suppliers. If all goes well I will either find a way to repair them, or be able to create new ones. I have a failing one on my own truck and haven't had the best luck getting a good used one. Otherwise I would tear my old one apart. Unfortunately my truck isn't worth throwing $1300 at nor do I have it to throw.

Would it be possible that you are willing to let go of, or do you like seeing it every so often? If you are willing where are you located so I can get shipping costs.

I have been curious about breaking one open and poking around a little so I wanted to see if anyone has a good paper weight they would be willing to give up if I pay for shipping. Mine is going and waiting for a refund on one I returned.

Another thought is to try and flare it back out, may need to cut a line in an inch to do so. I think it would be better than cutting it off. Just drill a hole an inch in and cut to the hole, or vise versa, to stop it from wanting to crack from the cut up the pipe. Can always cut it off later if it doesn't work. A little heat from a torch can help a lot when trying to flare it back out.

I would say that if you pull the relay power from the VP relay and the pump power from a constant on fuse it would only run the fuel pump when the VP has power. Otherwise, you can find another relay that is on when you need the power to the pump. Another idea is to pull relay power off of DRL's or head lights relay. The head lights would have to be on for the pump to get power. Relay power actuates power to the device. That being said, it would definitely be better to fix which ever issue is causing the problem such as a pump drawing to much power. Test pump resistance to ensure it is, or isn't, the problem.

This question is difficult to answer beings we cannot see what you do. I would get some big channel locks and try to undo the oval shape and maybe get another person to help try and slip them together while I, or they, manipulate the pipes. May need a couple channel locks to do both pipes at the same time. Whether you can cut off some could be figured out by inspection of the pipes and moving them an inch to see if there is enough play.

I Just Checked It Out again, You're Right About The duplication. After playing with it a bit, it rocks. I have an android and open with acrobat. Bookmarks work and I found the book at the bottom that gives you access to the table of contents and the bookmarks. clicking on a bookmark or title in the contents takes you directly to the correct page. Awesome Yeah, finding the articles and such is a learning experience after getting used to the way it was. Thank you for all you do.

At least it will run through the return line unless a fuel line breaks...

Air in the fuel will not cause this issue. A diesel engine can run as lean as you can get it where a gasoline engine cannot. Your looking at a fuel or water issue causing white smoke. I remember water being the white smoke issue, however, that is with gasoline engines. I think diesel can belch a bit of white smoke but usually a rich mixture will be black. Change the fuel lines 15 minutes after putting it back together, can't hurt. WHITE SMOKE occurs when raw diesel comes through the exhaust completely intact and unburned.

It is being worked on a bit...