eddielee

no the glow plugs in the cylinders. this is what creates heat in the cylinder to cause ignition of the fuel. if there is not enough heat then there is no ignition. the grid heater only heats incoming air not the head.

When I first read this I immediately thought Glow plugs are not getting hot or are no good. I am wondering if you have checked to see if they are getting power or if they have proper resistance. Also curious why no one else mentioned this. I know that the Wait to start light comes on while the Glow plugs warm up and then when they are hot it goes out. so would this not be the first thing to check?

Does this really include the DRY FLOW Filters??I was debating the AEM dry flow filter W/cloth case. I do not like the oil filters. Mine came with a K&N and I am intending on either getting a dry flow or going to a stock air box which may be fun to find as there is not one in the truck...

It works by the alternator/generator (whichever it is) pulls energy off the engine to charge the batteries, the larger the drain the more draw.Reason for the surging is the weak batteries show charged then show need to charge alternately.This causes some of the energy to surge into the alternator and batteries rather than the drive train.This is a large part why it is so hard to diagnose!!Kinda like when you turn on the TV or microwave and your lights dim for a second. Your foot does not compensate for this and due to the fact that the engine is not at an idle neither does the ECM.It is highly Important to check electrical connections to the batteries and the alternator to insure a good connection otherwise this may cause failure in one or all of them.

I would recommend going to your local hose shop and seeing if they can make you a rubber line with stock fittings. Then you can get something a little more flexible that any hose shop can make.I would also recommend getting hose that can handle Bio-diesel as it will hold up to all other diesel and additives.

With the volume of fuel moving the 200* is going to be much less. I agree with an additive^^^Wrapping any filter with heater with aluminum foil (shiny side in) and insulation will help with maintaining fuel temperature.Reading this reminds me of the strips they use for heating water lines to prevent freezing.Not sure there are any that are 12V but would be worth the effort of looking. an inverter would allow the use of an AC unit for heating the fuel lines.

Better prices with the package deal too.I looked at industrial's page and saw they do use new electronics, however, they say Bosch parts..The one thing I read on here about the Bosch parts is them not being properly de-burred is the issue that causes their failure, so if they just use Bosch parts then it would not be as worth it.I think my biggest issue with just buying parts from another place such as DAP or Vulcan is the possibility they would be Cardone rebuilds.I will pay another $200 not to get Cardone, I think they are inferior compared top even Napa...I may be a little picky, but, Autozone has sold me more than one bunk Cardone part. Lifetime warranties loose their value when you have to replace the parts more than once...The time spent doing the work getting dirty just to have to do it all over is just horrible!!!

I like to use di-electric grease for this it doesn't wear off. I do recommend using a plastic battery terminal to cover them or else every time you touch them you get it on you...

Definitely see the benefit to the "Diesel Auto Power for his combo package of $970" that is a darn good deal whether or not you need the pickup pump from the prices I have seen else where...

I was wondering if they are better than others out there.They are the only ones I see offer a hot rod injection pump as well as the SO and HO pumps.I am not to fond of Cardone as they are what I consider the bottom of the barrel...

Was looking through Fuel pump options and came across this place. industrialinjection.com They rebuild fuel injection pumps for diesel engines and tout their abilities, as do all companies, however, may be something to it... http://www.industrialinjection.com/shop/category/pumps/dodge-injection-pumps/ Curious if anyone knows of these guys or not, interested about experiences.

So the only thing I can think is that the cable from Dodge has it or they do not make it anymore... Salvage yard only parts are sooo fun. Thank you for your quick responses. Guess I will call or go see Dodge and see if the new cable they sell has one on it. - - - Updated - - - Discontinued part, where does one find dis continued parts. Went to Dodge and they have discontinued this part. They have all the shoes and levers but have discontinued the springs. Auto parts stores have all the springs except this one, Hmmm...

I wish this spring was in that pack...Does Anyone know where to get it or what it is called.Salvage yards are hard to deal with when you have a 2 and 4 year old tagging along

Hey, I have a 2nd gen and the driver side e-brake Return spring has been worn from not being attached within the drum.Just got off the phone with Dodge and they say they do not make this part and the parts store says the part is dealer only.What is it actually called and what is the part number?Where can I get one?

to do this correctly without issues, you would need to use another relay on the hot wire to the heater, or insert a switch on the small wire to the relay itself and break a small current rather than a large current.ancient revivals

adding one percent bio-diesel adds much lubricity and cleans really well... this is often recommended for diesels.x2 on injectors needing cleaned and possible valve adjustment. Add a quality injector cleaner or Bio-diesel and see what happens.(disclaimer, not sure how bio effects the fuel lines on these trucks as I am new to them, used to drive a VW TDI)

After reading this thread I say driving slowly is the most effective way to cool the engine and components. More air flowing through the engine and past the truck. sitting in one spot the warmer air can circulate back through the radiator...I would say for exact numbers installing a temp sensor to the turbo housing would give the best results, however, complicated to install without effecting its ability to release heat.Reading this thread I thing installing one on the return oil line would be second most beneficial, or installation of an electric pump with thermostatic shut off set for 200* would be most ideal.