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Me78569

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Everything posted by Me78569

  1. have you looked are the wiring diagram for 2001 and figured out what c1 does?
  2. you aren't lighting the 64 because your injectors are tiny for the turbo. boost is a measurement of restriction not flow. A 64 will more more cfm at 32 psi than a hx35 will. I doubt you are hitting 500 hp with the limited fuel you have. you def have a fuel issue, doubt it is your map. I would be looking at the injectors personally.
  3. didn't you just replace the cam / crank sensor?
  4. Got any pictures of the nozzle?
  5. what level on the smarty are you running?
  6. replace the entire unit, both sides. you won't be able to service your bearing.
  7. The tune will reimport after quadzilla changes the profile name back to what it used to be. I dunno why they changed it, likely oversight. you can open the json with notepad or similar and just change the profile name to match. however I would guess monday they will change it back
  8. @Quadzilla Power why was the vehicle profile name updated from "V2 Dodge 1998-2002 " to "V2 Dodge 98-02" that has broken the ablity to import tunes that were created prior to this profile The import button also will not allow you to select a Json file from a local folder.
  9. send it to me and I will import it into the 2.7 profile using the tune editor
  10. The Iquad started as an IOS device only, that's where the name came from. Move forward XX years and they came out with bluetooth. hindsight is 20/20 Use the 1998-2002 V2 profile. that's the only V2 profile for public. here's the current list
  11. I dont remember honestly. haha making code changes is a long daw out process from the app side. Make a suggestion to Quadzilla for these things, they have been good at putting user requests in releases. The reason why it isn't offically supported is that microsoft changed the requirements for the driver signing on later OS's you have to jump through the hoops that I documented. Until the point at which Quadzilla is able to get the driver signed through microsoft, hint $$$$$$, then it will not be supported to flash yourself. Just keep in mind that it is never as easy as you might think. I always suggested using the normal profile in the app so you don't have to deal with these types of "guessing". The latest flash is in place in the downloads section. As for a beta tester for the app you need to call them and request that if you want it. all I can say is dont be frustrated at Quadzilla, as a company, because of the way that I work with flashes etc here on Mopar1973man. I push releases much faster than they do because i can due to the type of people that are on mopar1973man.com. You dont need to flash. the differences in the 2.7 beta vs the 2.7 public are minor / insignificant. also as an fYI we ( mopar9173man.com) try to keep the download section updated with the most current stuff we can.
  12. Did you sign up with quadzilla to be a beta tester? That's what I refer to when I talk about updates. The flash files won't be on the official site as it is not offically supported to flash yourself. Quadzilla will flash for you, which is the official method. Keep in mind if you set tps Max at 80% you get %100 wiretap at 80% throttle. You always get a full 0-100% but the mins and maxes just tell the quadzilla when to hit that.
  13. All conditions must be met for wiretap to apply. The pump low boost scale defines what psi the wiretap map starts at. Ie an offset. The tps settings define where the 0-100% axis of the tps settings come in. At 20-80 your 0-100% is scaled between 20-80 throttle. As for why you don't see peak canbus please post a datalog and the tune you are running. Fuel stretch is not more = better. You can run too much duration causing power to drop off. If you have decent sized injectors you really don't need that much fuel stretch. Your injector size is doing the work vs the pump. I don't use over 2k stretch because 1800-2000 is typically where peak hp gain happens.
  14. @Quadzilla Power the last update to the beta app sure is nice.
  15. the custom tunes are specific to a profile.
  16. pretty dang hard haha I wouldn't worry. You will have a "this isn't a good idea" thought long before you do something bad enough to burn much of anything up.
  17. More specific, that's a big bite. Well if you have a root understanding of how the 5v reference sensors work it becomes a lot easie. So 5v sensors. typically 3 leads 1 lead is a 5v source to power the sensor. If you don't have 5v to the sensor then you have a wiring issue between the ecm and sensor 1 lead is ground. if you dont have ground ( you are completing the cirucit by measuring between orange wire and black) 1 leads is the output from the sensor as pressure moves from 0 psi to 50 psi you should see the output from the sensor decrease in voltage. 0 psi = 4.5v, 52 psi = .5v We call that a pull down sensor, as the sensor value increases the output from the sensor increases So the code is saying sensor too high too long. So too high too long means the ecm see's that the engine is "off" ka no load, logic tells us that map readings should be at 0 psi. If it is above that we know that something is wrong, it is impossible to have positive boost without the engine running. the too high too long means the ecm is seeing high voltage on the sensor when it shouldn't be. If you look at step 3 above you can see the troubleshooting tree wants sub .5v on the output from the wiring AKA no outside power feeding into the system. so if you can isolate a condition, engine off, you can predict that a sensor should act in a specific manner. If it doesn't then you can point to a issue. clear as mud?
  18. I've tried hahaha. Given that ccd is no longer a thing after 2nd gen trucks the market is not there.
  19. You need to be more specific as to what you want to start with. What do you want to know? the biggest thing to help you get through electrical stuff is to take it one step at a time and don't let it get over your head.
  20. @Mopar1973Man i think @Quadzilla Power means that their side doesn't have the hardware needed to talk on CCD.
  21. voltage also stablizes after things are warmed up
  22. Is the truck warmed up or cold?
  23. you should just need to update the profile. I have tested this on my phone the and far right 3 sensors are Eco, Gallon trip, and build date
  24. Me78569 posted an Cummins article in Fuel
    This article covers the Timing tables in the ECM that control what timing is at a given point in time. It is meant to help people understand why timing does what it does, and why MPG falls off so fast as MPH increases beyond ~55 mph. It also helps show why mpg is non existent with a truck with 4.10 rear end. For the sake of the article we are only going to look at 3 timing tables, there are more, but they dont really apply all the time. Also keep in mind I tried to make the x axis on each map %0-100 of load / fueling, but use fuzzy math because it is not exactly 0-100 as it is based on the fueling command passed to the VP44. however each map is less fueling to the left more to the right. 1ST The Base Timing Map. this is the map that the ECM using to say no matter what this is how much "base" timing. 2nd The Static State Map. This map controls how much timing is added ON TOP of the base map if conditations are static. Load / RPM / TPS input etc etc all static AKA cruise 3rd The Dynamic State Map. This map is what the ECM uses for timing to add ON TOP of the base map if conditions are changing, AKA accelerating or decelerating etc We won't look at this one for MPG info, but you can use it to see what timing is doing under load. hint timing is at or near 12* So what we do is find the area of cruise state in the maps, Say ~1500 rpm and ~30% load. If we look at that area in the base map we find ~13* of timing for a base amount, then we see Static State Map has an "island" of timing increase in that same rpm area. You can see the ~6* drop in timing once you go from 1400 rpm to 1580 rpm. The resulting timing will be ~18* at 1400 rpm and ~13* of timing at 1580 rpm. What we have found is that best mpg tends to happen if we stick timing in that 18*-19* range at cruise state ~55-65 mph. If we look at gearing vs speed for a 47re you can see that with 3.55 rear end 55 mph = 1450 rpm 3.55 rear end 60 mph = 1600 rpm 4.10 rear end 55 mph = 1700 rpm 4.10 rear end 60 mph = 1850 rpm With stock tuning, this means that a 3.55 rear end mpg will fall off at pretty much 55 mph, with a 4.10 truck mpg will fall off well before highway speed. Now if you add a Edge ez, quadzilla zxt, edge comp, type tuner you will see 2 things happen. 1. You will need less throttle input to move down the road at a given speed, this means you are further left in the maps above. Note that if you move too far left your timing falls off again. AKA if you go too big in injectors, without tuning to correct the fueling, your mpg will start to drop off. you may blame "big injectors" but it is actually far to little timing to support good mpg. 2. you are adding timing on top of the ECM desired timing. So what this means is you will get oem timing + an added 1* or 2* of timing. this will help keep mpg up near 55 mph with a 3.55 truck. However as you increase speed the oem timing will fall off faster than the tuner will add it. Again please remember that somewhere in the 18-19* of timing is about righ tfor good mpg in that 55-65 mph area. The longer you can hold timing up as rpms increase beyond 1400 rpm the higher your mpg will be. Now if you are using Quadzilla Adrenaline with V2 tuning or UDC pro you are able to set timing where you want it regardless of the above maps. this is very handy to get mpg up and hold them up as you increase speed beyond 55 mph
  25. Someone can't take off with my truck though hahah