Me78569

whew you had me worried. hahah

The issue with just Googling is the internet is %95 fiction and opinion. Since we want to understand we should compile this information as Cowboy is doing.

Use our Part number lookup tool to see how the gear select works select the transfercase section out of the drop down, I think it is page 505 you can see the linkage parts 12,13,14,15 Should be VERY easy to crawl under the truck and figure out what's up.

you're joking right? I hope so at least, it would be sad if someone in the goveberment decided that was a bad term.

I liked the old 80 cushions, but she didn't like them so we compromised..... I would let her do the cushions if she leaves the blinds the same color, she asked if she could sew on new backing and I said ok. I think we are going to head up to 11 mile this weekend and do some camping and ice fishing. Can't wait to be able to come in off the lake, start the heater and relay / play some cards / drink coffee without having to try and start a fire and manage it. Don't get me wrong, I am still going to start a fire and manage it, but I don't NEED to hahahaha.

The like button should be back for all.

I am figuring that the camper is drafty enough to overcome that issue. I was in it for over an hour yesterday with the heater on all windows / doors closed and I didn't notice any smell. Again I don't know how much we will actually use the heater, doubt we will have it on when we sleep. Maybe just morning and evening for relaxing.

It's a ventless heater. O2 cutoff, suppose to burn 99.9% efficient. Mr heater makes one too. I will be getting a co2 alarm but lot of guys use them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171327402222?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT This is working well for me.

humm, never heard of that update. I would rewire the sensor to the ecm and get an actual sensor. I would guess that would clear up that code.

so your truck only has 2 wires going to the oil pressure sensor?

good point

I might call Smarty and see if they can flash the right vin to the ecm? I know they say that any 2nd gen ecm can be used on any 2nd gen truck, just needs the right flash. If the truck got hit by lightening or a large jolt I would look at your grounds first. Maybe break out the multimeter and start testing various grounds --> battery neg for resistance.

UL...whats that? hahahah Honestly it might be. The converter is all contained and mounted, wire is all big enough gauge, wire nuts are up to spec for the amp. I still have a breaker in place and fuses on everything. Some more work tonight, Heater came in and I am happy to say it fits where I was thinking it wouldn't Ran the heater for over a hour on high and the outside faces other than the front are cool to the touch. all surrounding areas are also cool so I am happy about that. Heats the camper up nice. Had to relocate the speaker and switch for the water pump, oh well. Installed USB charging ports and cig lighter with a volt meter. Again all wired into the new converter. Still waiting on the water pump, the kill switch for the battery, and a couple other small things like LED lights. Other than that I am say I am happy enough to take it out. Curious to see how much power I will end up using per night.

yes later trucks lock in 3rd without needing to mess with the OD button. shifting goes, 1,2,3,3lu,4,4lu the 4 lu should happen nearly at the same time as the 3->4 shift. The clunk is likely just the converter locking right as / after the 3/4 shift.

Throw out bearing or pilot bearing would be my first guess.

I honestly see cops do this all the time, Get to a red light, flip the lights on, then kill the lights on the otherside. Dunno if that was the case, but sucks none the less. Glad everyone is ok.

I try to fill at 1/4 tank, but sometimes I don't get around to getting fuel until she is all the way empty.

I do like t he sump setup, if I was having issues now I might consider it , but I can easily use 32/33 gallons of my 35 gallon tank without seeing any pressure drop with my drawstraw. It is all about how it was installed. 6 in one hand half dozen in another.

Well I am happy to report that I have successfully converted the old 6 AMP 120v-->12v dc to a 26 amp 120v-->12v dc using a server power supply that I had at the office. ( images are of the desktop PSU that I tested with prior) Very simple to do, wire up the PSU to turn on when power is applied, use a switch to ground the green wire on the PSU. then figure out what colors are 12v on your PSU. Cut all the leads and cap them to ensure no shorts. then run the 12v output from the PSU into the switch system of the old controller. Do the same with the ground from the PSU. And thats it. You now have a VERY cheap, yet reliable,stable power converter for your RV. Typical desktop PSU's range from 10amp to 25 amp and more depending on price. Converter removed. Simple 2 wire input (neutral and hot) u I have steady 12v rather than the 15-17v I had before. Operation is still the same from the panel and everything looks OEM from the outside. Still have the separation between the battery and 120v system so the battery will not be charged while plugged into 120v, but that is not really an issue for me. I can now runt he radio full bore and not have the lights dim. It's the little things I also wired in the 12v Fridge to the converter side also. It used to be setup where it would only get power if you where connected through the battery as the fridge takes 10amps to run on 12v, and the old converter would only do 6 amp. Since I now have the extra amps I ran some heavy gauge wire to the fridge from the converter with a fuse. I doubt I will ever use the 120v -->12v ---> fridge setup, but it is good to know I can. I effective turned a 2 way fridge ( LP / 12v) into a semi 3 way fridge. Should also point out jen has recovered all of the cushions

Great. Figures when you insure the package they never break anything.

You got them mike?

Yep that's why I will be using a 20 AMP 12v steady power supply from a server. Tried and true. It will put out exactly what I need for free vs the $200 equal in the RV world. I am all for using the right parts when they serve a purpose that extends beyond the scope of what other items can do. But in this case the Server power supply fills all the needs without any cost or loss in function.

yep, issue is that the 28 year old AC --> DC converter in the camper is putting out over 16v to the 12 volt system. I am sure that is going to cause issues.