Me78569

I would get the big line kit from vulcan that includes the T and put the needle valve there. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/182.htm

Always loved the XJ220 And my other favorite car There is another one of him driving the original car....looking for it now.

So anyone have any suggestion on working with a barn sour horse? Been going up at least 2 times a week and working with him, but the barn sourness doesn't seem to be getting any better. More time the only fix?

She screams now. Might get a little old when towing, but man does that VGT sound good........

Dunno how it got broken truthfully. I just noticed it was awhile back.

Wow, That is such a blatant abuse of power. I'd be pissed. Nick

Bbhd dropped off a bhaf for me ysterday.

I wanted to give a Big shout out to BBHD. Thanks a ton for the BHAF, the truck screams not, well not faster, but it sure sounds good in the cab! You're a real standup guy, let me know the next time you are coming through and I will get you lunch or a beer or whatever. Nick

Server admin and do a bit of coding when needed. I am much better with a wrench though. shouldn't be too hard to make a controller, you would need to watch governor solenoid pressures then log them and look at the data to see when shifts happen. Then you would have to tap into the vss and mirror the "shift" points when coded to do so. There is a lot more to it, but that is the gist.

Yep, If you are expecting a Powerstroke or duramax whistle you are going to be disappointed.

BHAF can help with cabin noise, but the hx35 and the 24v don't really make a lot of turbine noise. You can also do a straight pipe all the way back.

Cowboy, I have been mulling over making a controller. I would love to have automatic 2,3,4th lockup with unlocked shifting. The TC lockup clutch is pushed back from the "flywheel" like surface in the TC by TC fluid flowing through the input shaft, when you remove the that pressure a spring presses the clutch against the back face of the TC and thus you have lockup.

Yep, sadly.

Yep, you absolutely need something stiff inside to give you the ability to clamp the filter on.

torque reads that. you should see something like 29 psih or something at idle.

Doesn't it just snap into the dash itself? I will need to look at my truck to figure it out I guess. not %100 sure what you are looking for.

live data will help. Idle value for pressure cruising value for pressure %50 value for pressure.

yea thats a safe bet. maybe ground the wire in question on one end and use a multimeter to try and find a break.

Brake light switch possibly on the outs? Trying to think of things that can cause unlocking.

Just copy and paste the url from the video into the post then ensure you hit enter after the url. it should work. Great great song.

From page 202 there are 3 PN's for different colors 0RU36LAZAB 1 Agate 0RU36RC8AB 1 Cirrus 0RU36VK9AB 1 Suede What interior do you have?

well good luck man.

I understand the frustration. I have had a clunk in the front of my truck for as long as I have owned it. I have replaced every piece of suspension under the truck and it is still there. I can't figure it out....so I ignore it. How do your battery cables look?

I would start ohming out wires from the trans to the PCM. It should be pretty easy to tell if you need new cables. How do they look? still tight? any corrosion?

Did the band aid do anything? How are you battery cables looking? You said after you cleaned EVERY ground on the truck the issue went away for a bit? That really sticks out for me.