Me78569

Cool, When that time comes I will work with you to ensure that you can upload them directly to the mopar1973man photo store.

I have seen several hx40 maps, but none that match the flow specs that holset gives (67-69lb.min) and none that extend beyond 107k.

Mike, Can a none admin upload to our internal photo store? I know I was never able to, it would just error out. dunno if that was related to another issue or not. I agree photobucket isn't a good thing to do, but I know that I can go back and move those photos over once the end user puts them up. vais01, What's your actual name ( easier for me to remember). I can work with you to show you how to upload images.

Do you have a valid compressor map for the 351???? I figured I was in the sweet spot when the tuner was turned up, but I wanted to get into the sweet spot on my tow tune and dd tune, while not overdriving the turbo too hard with the tuner turned up. My cruise section keeps the turbo between 12cm and 14cm which works well here. For the guys that have more o2 to work with I would suggest they bump that up by a cm. Still pondering how to nicely kick out of cruise mode when you put your foot down. I dunno if I want to keep it as a manual process to move out of cruise mode or automatically do it if you get over a %throttle.

I would use photobucket. Once you get things compiled we can work with you to create an article and store the images locally. I am interested as I am still running %100 oem intake haha.

Version 1.04 is out. some small changes curves are moved down one IE: DD mode is now Perf mode and Tow is now DD mode. With 1.03 curves I was unable to get boost above 32 psi due to drive pressure never really going above 32 psi. Tightening the housing has helped that. Now the turbo will run at 2:1 drive pressure ratio until 10 psi or so, then it will taper down to nearly 1:1 at 25psi and above. Before Tow curve was unable to build more than about 15-20psi. It will now build some more on injector fueling only. I might need to tighten it down a little more, but if I do turbo shaft speed will start to get too high for my liking. Currently Turbo rpm sits right at 120k-140k. Holset says they balance to 130k so 140k is a little high, but I KNOW for a fact that if you are pushing over 35psi of boost shaft speed is going to be north of 140k. However if you look at the hx35/hx40/he351's and how hard guys push the turbo without issues I am guessing that 140k isn't that big of a deal. I am surprised how nicely drive pressure hangs close to 1:1 on the top end. You really have to over speed the turbo to get drive pressure anywhere near 1.5:1 at 30 psi. I have raised the turbo shaft speed limit to 145k, at which point it will open the house one half cm per read until shaft speed drops. I have also changed the cruising position to 12cm rather than 14cm. 14cm is doable at sea level, but for me at 7000' 14cm is too big unless running on level ground. Lets face it I NEVER encounter level ground here where I live. After working through this I can see why 6.7 guys are blowing turbos left and right. They are REALLY overspeeding the turbo if they are anywhere near 500hp on a stock turbo. Fueling to get near 500hp on a 6.7 isn't hard to do with just a tuner. I would say that if you want the he351ve to last the max hp you can push is 425hp-450hp. Side note, I have put some though into doing a PCB for this project, but I am unsure if I really want to go into selling these things. I am already lacking in free time.

Do yourself a favor and look on craigslist for someone selling blem batteries. U have a "battery guy" that dell's blem batteries. I got 2 group 31's for $100 total with a 3 year warranty. So far I have bought 5 batteries from him and have had nothing but great results.

99 axle is the same as 94-98.5. the axle change happened at the 2000 year. You can verify this by looking at your ball joints and see how they are aligned. if both are holding the weight they are 99 and early axle. if only the top holds the weight then it is a late axle.

I have sworn off moog at this point. They seem to have gone completely to crap these days. I got abut 35k out of my moog ball joints and they were thrashed, the oem spicers I got to replace them are still tight as can be with nearing 30k on them. Denny's drive shafts have the 99 ball joints. He had the best prices on them when I was looking.

well 14cm works well on flat ground at 65ish. As soon as you hit a hill though egts climb to near 1000*. Living in the Rockies kinda puts a damper on the fun I guess haha. Gonna have to think on it some.

I have the quadzilla ADR schematics thanks to the old owner. I need to look over them and see if there is a serial output in the mainharness. I also have the X2 protocol docs that the quad uses to send the sensor values to the screen. I could fairly easily port that data stream to the Arduino. Tps load etc is in that stream. Humm.m time to do some reading through my docs.

I wouldn't use them for a couple reasons. 1. the OEM spicer typically last 100,000-150,000 without needing to be replaced. Can't beat that. 2. XRF seem to have made their joints slightly larger, and splined, which prevents you from using anything smaller again. AKA any OEM type joint.

yea, been mulling that over. I have the same "issue" at 35mph and 45 mph when not on the throttle above %35 or so. Since the code I am on controls the turbo via turbo shaft rpm it will already shrink down a bit when it shifts just due to the turbo speed slowing down. I guess I need to compare tps and watch for if turbo speed slows more than %10 and tps is constant to close the veins some. I need to figure-out a way to bring engine RPM into the arduino also. I would REALLY like to talk to Jacob at DAP and see if he would consider porting out the canbus info from the quadzilla via serial so you could use the quad box in conjunction with another unit. Expand to a turbo controller or something like that.

Drove around a bit yesterday in mpg mode and it seems that egts are down a little more. I need to redo the curve some because with the turbo opening so fast it has a hard time spinning the turbo fast enough, >36,000rpm, to open fully to the 14cm that I wanted. I adjusted the code some and we will see how that does. I need to figure out how I want to hand this curve. I dunno if I want it to snap out of "M" mode if you get onto the throttle more than x amount or just leave it the way it is and say " if you need power don't run this curve" Maybe just a simple if statement on the curve select if (potvalue < 40 && TPS < 40){ } else {towcurve} dunno

praying for your wife bud. Things always seem their worst until they aren't

yep I was guessing they account for 2 mpg or so, maybe 3. Oh well, I will change it up next time I guess. I REALLY hate buying tires.

235/85/16 Kenda MT tire. They are a good #10 heavier than my last set of 235/85/16's but they are Luggy and do great in the mountains, so it is worth it. Yep I am a 4x4. I do think there would be a good bit to gain from dropping the entire truck 6" or so. I am not really complaining about mpg's by any means, always just looking for something to do haha.

OEM intake OEM filter. Supposed I should go with a BHAF at some point, but again with cruising throttle the OEM should be more than fine. I do have pretty heavy tires for being 235/85/16 I am thinking that might be the sole reason why I lost a couple mpg compared to my last long highway only trip. Call this a crazy idea, but what if I was to install limiting straps ( between the frame and axle) to hold the truck lower for trips like this? I would figure if the straps are strong enough to widthstand the stock of being "snapped" on suspension unloading, they would hold the truck down just fine. I have been SERIOUSLY considering installing bags on all 4 corners so I can drop the truck when I don't need the clearance. I bet there is 6"-8" to give when it comes to how much you would take down my truck without any issues. My truck sits VERY high for a stock truck, might get some drop shackles, or maybe a smaller block. Dropping the truck that much would seriously reduce the amount drag due to wind resistance.

when I put the injectors in 4k ago.

overhead adjustments?

that shouldn't do anything in regards to highway egts/mpg though. Also I dunno what my stall is exactly, it's around 1400-1500 that I would guess.

I thik it is 300 or so lower than stock. It's VERY tight.

nope low stall revmax 3.5 The engine might be most effiecent at 1900 rpm, but at 1900 there is too much wind resistance to be getting good mpgs for me at least.

aright version 1.03 is out. added a cruise mode. So now the pot will control 4 curves. m,t,d,p (mpg,tow,dd,perf) The M mode was added. Start position is still 5 or 6 cm, but the housing size ramps up to 14cm by the time the turbo rpm is at 40,000 rpm.

I have 3.55's on 235/85/16 60 mph is 1500 ish 70 is 1800 ish I think. 75 is 2000 on the nose. I have the adapter and I am using a hx40 downpipe attached to the back on the turbo housing, no elbow. I am coding in the 10-18cm map now. That should put cruising position around 14cm.