Me78569

Yea my friend is poking fun at me for paint a german car in US colors hahha.. I told him we stole it, and that his car was still on jackstands. His thread is next to unbelievable if you care to read it. Anything he does is %150....Give the guy a rapid prototype machine and a mill and he goes crazy. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1869798-93FIM5-s-1993-E34-M5-Build

I do have a pair of those.

ugh, Well we set aside 2 $50 gift cards to home depot so I could buy this soldering station. Went to home depot and spent the rest of the gift cards on a new sink, bathroom light, drywall, bedroom fan, and some other random stuff. Get back to the house, whip out the 2 gift cards we saved and BAM one of them is empty ( guessing they never actually bought it / charged it) So now I am waiting on home depot to get back to me in regards to if it was every loaded, and if it was, when it was used.

It is the spray stuff. It actually works great, little pricey, but it looks pretty dang good. The Germans were VERY good when it comes to building a car that can be serviced. The v12 in a car makes some things tough, like spark plugs, but they give you a special tool that allows you to do it. People who typically say "bmw's are terrible to work on / keep running" typically have never worked on one. The old ones (pre 2000 ish) are VERY robust and easy / cheap to keep going if you know where to get your parts. The Cummins has cost me much more to keep on the road compared to this 1/4 decade old german v12

Another 2 cans of plastic dip

I think that's the max. Not that I run it.

Thanks dynamic!!

Destroked is out of Denver, if I go down that road I will be giving them a call.

only 8*? I think I can do 15* haha.

that's what I am figuring. The High idle stuff is SMB 0603 resistors hahha.... might have gone too compact.

Yep, couple of us here.

I am really thinking of getting that hakko fx-888

Personally I prefer to tow with lower settings. I don't need more than 500-600 ft/lb to tow haha.

Welcome back! haha you must feel like a pretty lucky guy not to have any projects... I myself am trying to talk myself out of buying a Roller 96 f350 crewcab. The guy wants too much for it, of course, but it is a clean truck and I would be pretty darn happy to have my motor and trans in it.

That's an old one. That game is part of the reason I passed history class.

Already have drive pressure into the arduino. I'll get there just need a good few hours of coding to get the idea.

Somewhere north of 250-260k prob. The odo/ speedo didn't work for quite a long time haha.

Maybe it is because I am on my laptop, but it sounds exactly the same as my truck haha.

I am gonna need a new Soldering iron for the high idle project. What should I get? I would love to spend less than $70 but I keep seeing the nearly $100 Hakko fx-888d. what does everyone use?

I hope the best for you....and hopefully you survive your wife I dunno which would be worse, paying for a tranny R&R and explain it to your wife, OR having to tow your wife back and telling her you knew the tranny was on the outs and didn't do the R&R. Lololol.....only joshing.

I really need to do my bands so maybe I will tackle this soon and do a write-up

I know just what you are talking about haha. I did see that when I did a R&R on the tranny

yep, I wish my code would see that ( weither that is turbo accleration, Drive pressure, etc etc etc) and adapt on the fly. example, With canbus fueling only my curve "dd" works great unloaded, however if I load up a trailer and head up the pass that curve no longer works with the same fueling. Anyways just thinking out-loud and will change / add stuff to the code as I figure out a good way to do so.

Ever since I have owned my truck it has had this terrible "clunk" right under the drivers side foot rest. Some days it made me mad enough to want to drive the truck off a cliff. I have replaced EVERY part under the front of the truck more than once and I still have had this clunk. I had all but given up hope of ever fixing it. When I first felt it I thought " must need control arms" well I replaced them once, still had the issue, then I replaced them again " just because" Ball joints, steering etc etc etc........ Anyways fast forward to a month ago, I noticed that the mounting holes for the control arms were ovaled out, so I welded in some washers to fix that issue. As a result of that there as no longer any camber adjustment. So high on my list was adjustable control arms. Thanks to Jacob at DAP I got some BD control arms with Poly bushings. Normally I shy away from poly stuff, but I thought "heck couldn't make the POS truck any worse" Well much to my surprise after installing the control arms my clunk is gone! I couldn't believe it. Even OEM Mopar arms and bushing didn't fix the issue. Figured my issues might help someone else. If you have a clunk in your front end, try poly bushings.

Yea The arduino coding window is open pretty much all the time. It is hard to make it better than it is now on the top end, but I know it could be improved on. Right now it works great for my truck, right now...but - I really hate that the code isn't smart enough to adjust the curve based upon multiple fueling levels, without user input to change the curve manually. I dunno the best way to accomplish this. More thinking, and so forth. - I also wish it automatically sense when the truck is at cruise and jump to cruise curve on it's own. However it is hard to figure out the best way to do this. I was thinking maybe a timed event that after x seconds at TPS between %20-28 it would sense cruise......again more thought needs to go into that.