Me78569

No the Empty post stays empty. The bare wire is broke at some point between the switch and the plug on the IAT.

One of the posts on the switch is supposed to be empty. The issue is in your ground wire in the cable at some point. A single solder break on the switch itself will not cause those 2 codes. the only you have both of those codes is a break in the ground wire from the ecm. posting a picture http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/478-adding-an-image-to-a-post-on-mopar1973man-com

The ground wire in the wiring before the switch is busted somewhere in the cable. It is the bare wire. Having looked at a number of these I can tell you that if you want to fix it you will need to run a new ground wire to the sensor.

Pictures won't do you much good as they all have a ton of heat shrink wrap on back of the switch. What's the code it throws? More than likely one of the resistors has broken due to stress on the harness/switch pins.

Any codes? checked all fuses?

I am leaning towards

So the engine won't turn over when engaging the starter? Crank typically means when you turn the key the engine is rotated by the starter. I am assuming you mean it won't start and run but the engine does turn over when you engage the starter? Any codes? Did you mess with the cam sensor?

No B & W for me, but here ya go. [url=http://s879.photobucket.com/user/me78569/media/DSCN3584_zps33dfee2c.jpg.html][/url I think I still have that hat in the closet actually.

Another 2 cans down I think I am only 5 or 6 cans away from being ready for shark teeth, or a pin up girl......tough choice. Oh well project boredom rolls on.

No the switch is mounted to the board. this is to ensure that the switch doesn't have to take the abuse of wires hanging off the back of it. the board itself is only 1" by 1.5" or something like that. It won't require much space, but I am not going to promise that it will fit until I get one done.

The new mounting method requires the end user drill a ~1/4 hole to mount through. The cig hole would have to be filled, then have a hole drilled in it. Does that make since?

Next to none.The straw is also angled so as to allow for feed room even if the straw is all the way on the bottom.

I love my draw straw, I can run down well below 1/16 of a tank without any PSI issues.

Big line kit will allow for more flow at a given psi. Flow is king, PSI is only restriction in a system.

I am not sure yet. I would like to put mine up there also, but the board may be too deep and too long. I will let you know when I get my switch in.

Haha nope need to sell those for gold

All I can say is wow..... Hands down does a better job than my old $10 special. This will really help make all the solder joints pretty with the new high idle switches.

sounds fun. cant wait to see it again.

The beta Harness is complete. Will have to test it with the board. If the harness passes then the rest of the harnesses can be built.

there is a lot of talk, and I am as guilty as everyone else, about the end times and so forth. Of course some are saying something to the effect of "every generation has the group of people saying the end is near" So we end up with 2 sides fighting each other on the best way to prepare/live their lives. I often find myself wondering does the outcome really matter.......do I really need to try and predict what is going to happen as long as I have faith. Should any outside force / circumstance alter how I behave or what I do? I can't say I know enough or deserve to know enough to try and predict what is going on in this crazy world. One of these days I will get Matthew 6:24 painted on the door way leading out of the house.

Sounds good. looking forward to seeing how it works for you.

Get different injectors. DAP is a good choice.

Alright, I think I got it working for you. Go ahead and load this up #include <SPI.h> #include <can.h> #include <Wire.h> #include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h> // Defines for setting up the CAN Bus #define mode NORMAL // define CAN mode #define bitrate 250 // define CAN speed (bitrate) MCP CAN1 (10); //Create CAN Channel LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x20, 2, 1, 0, 4, 5, 6, 7, 3, POSITIVE); // Set the LCD I2C address unsigned int last_vane_position = 40; unsigned int DesiredPosition; unsigned int vane_position; int VanePos = 0; void setup() { // Initialize Serial communications with computer to use serial monitor Serial.begin(115200); lcd.begin(20, 4); // initialize the lcd for 20 chars 4 lines and turn on backlight // Set CAN mode and speed CAN1.begin(NORMAL, bitrate); lcd.setCursor(0, 0); lcd.print("CM^2 = "); } void loop(){ if(DesiredPosition > 800){ DesiredPosition = 100; } else{ DesiredPosition += 1;} // Set the Turbo Position SendTurboPosition( DesiredPosition ); // Delay for Processor delay(5); VanePos = constrain(map(DesiredPosition,40,960,3,25), 3, 25); String TurboPos = String(String(VanePos, DEC) + " "); lcd.setCursor(6, 0); lcd.print(TurboPos); } void SendTurboPosition( int TurboPosition ) { last_vane_position = DesiredPosition; int FinalPosition = map( TurboPosition, 0, 1023, 960, 40 ); byte lobyte = lowByte(FinalPosition); byte hibyte = highByte(FinalPosition); unsigned long ID = 0x0CFFC600; // Random Extended Message ID byte length = 8; // Data length byte data[] = { lobyte, hibyte, 0x01, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF }; // data message with an added counter CAN1.send ( ID, extID, length, data ); // Load message and send } I Think it will walk the turbo out and then reset, butI can only hear the turbo resetting ( so I am assuming it is moving) the screen should also show you the cm position. Here is the board layout post from lilbb.com http://community.lilbb.com/hardware/through-hole-fun/msg104/#msg104 You will need a 10k on the shaft speed wires, then also a cap or something connecting them. My thread on his site goes into that detail, or you can compare is build list vs the layout. Feel free to ask quesitons when you get to that point. Pretty much pin out the 9924 like so pin 1. turbo speed wire in 10+k resistor pin 2.turbo speed wire in 10+k resistor pin 3. NC pin 4. NC pin 5. ground pin 6. 5v pin 7. output to pin 8 on arduino 10k resitor pin 8. nc pin 9. 5v pin 10. 5v You can find the datasheet info for the 9924 in the article for the code. It has the modes vs which pins are connected. You want mode A1 I think.

I might have had a typo. There was ";;" rather than just ";" I updated the code section in the above post. Anyways I dont have my truck today at work so I can't test until later.