Me78569

if you dont want power over 2200 rpm don't use the gass pedal above 2200. you could also dump timing above 2500 and that would pull power. if you want more power you add more fuel in the tune. If you want less then you add less. It is not like the smarty where you are "guessing" what a change does.

likely, but I am not sure. I would encourage the OP to Call quadzilla with the serial number. my guess is it doesn't work though since it was unplugged

You have an xzt quadzilla.

what did you install This on the turbo compressor cover? Or This on the exhaust housing. we also need to clarify what you mean by "slow" 0-60 in 15-20 seconds is pretty normal for a stock 2nd gen. these trucks are ANYTHING but fast. They can pull a good load, but they do it slow.

Without tuning / boost fooling the ecm will not allow for anything over ~22 psi. If you are over that the ecm will defuel to try and keep boost low. You cant increase boost via wastegate changes or boost elbow without doing boost fooling / tuning at the same time. Please data log your sensors and figure out what the ecm is seeing. Codes dont always trip cels. Overboost is saying the ecm has been defueling.

Data log you map sensor. Boost reference is how the ecm works. If the ecm isnt seeing boost coreectly then it will be slow. Doesnt matter if you have a new map sensor or not still need to check what the ecm is seeing. The truck should pull a house, but a stock 2nd gen is anything but fast or a towing monster. 190 wheel hp and ~350 ft lb stock.

Does it have tuning?the ecm wont allow for 30 psi of boost to build. Get live data from the sensors, something doesnt make sense

no smoke on 7 x .012's with only a 57 mm inducer is gonna be hard to do. 7 x .012's can flow more fuel than the vp can supply, but the turbo is limited to ~450 hp. I doubt you would be able to max canbus duration, and def no wiretap. I could run just a touch of wiretap with my 7 x .012's and the he351ve.

Have you done a boost leak test? What does plenty of boost mean? 10 psi? 20 psi? Read the live data going down the road from the sensors, such as map values? A low reading map sensor can make the truck hard to reach 65 with. How fast are you trying to tow? Stock tire size?

What have you done to troubleshoot so far?

Check the data link plug. Both the map sensor and datalink plugs are right in the area you were messing with.

Did you watch the video in the sticky? It walks through the process. It sounds like you got the driver installed and you just need to do the base flash.

sounds like either you busted a wire to the map sensor or the map sensor died. Trans slip is based on your vehicle setup in the app. any codes now?

I have been looking at the tunes people have been running and I am seeing a common trend, the 30 psi canbus fuel setting is set a few % above the 28psi setting. For normal DD duties this is fine and dandy, but if you are after high RPM Fueling you should make a small change to your tune. Rather than setting your 30 psi setting a few % higher than your 28 psi setting you should put your 30 psi setting at %150. This wont make the tune any less smooth as %99 of the time if you are at 28psi + your are likely at WOT and likely your tune is asking for max duration already. So if the max fueling command is 4095, and your 28 psi setting puts you at 4095 already then no amount of % jump is going to make the fueling command go any higher, thus you wont feel any difference in your fueling curve when you go from 28psi to 30 psi. everyone is thinking " big deal you are at max duration what does it matter if the 30 psi setting is at %150 or not?" What this means is you end up with fueling higher by %30 for longer if you up your 30 psi setting from 120% to say 150% because as rpms top 3500 the ecm begins to pull fuel like crazy. Since the quadzilla uses the ecm fueling command to multiply on top of you can see how using %150 rather than %120 will hold fueling longer. Once you hit 3700 rpm however the quadzilla gives up as the ECM needs to see a fueling command return from the vp that is 0 otherwise it goes into runaway protection mode. To see this in a visual manner look at this badly created graph. The blue line is a tune with the 30 psi setting at 150% the orange is a tune with a 30 psi at %120. you can see both tunes max out at 4095, but the %150 will hold peak longer. Another key point is if you want to make power above 3k rpm your timing better be as high as it will go. If high RPM fueling is your goal, then you should set your timing "max" value as high as it will go. For when you need just that little bit more, using %150 at 30 psi setting is like having an AMP that goes to 11.

is your computer 32 bt?

did you download the 32bit or 64bit version of the installer?

If you want more top end power, make sure your 30 psi setting is at %150. You can make a large jump from ~100% to %150 at 28-30 psi as you should already be at nearly %100 duration. The higher % just gives you more fuel for more rpms for longer before the Quad gives up.

go with android if you can. Devices are cheaper and the datalogging functions work better.

Again there was no difference in actual timing value when timing revo values are changed. the only thing that changed was the point at which timing went to 18* related to TPS input. timing3 would lock timing at 18* at %50 throttle input whereas timing 2 wouldn't lock until %70 throttle input. The rest of the timing curve was exactly the same. So timing being safe on timing 1 vs timing 4 doesn't matter they both had the same curve. The issue with the smarty is it will max duration at low rpm and low throttle input while keeping timing up near 18*. that is what kills head gaskets. changing timing settings does not give you more or less timing,.

It needs to be the right fuse in the panel in order for it to work.

If your truck touches the street and is used for anything other than a balls to the wall toy then the 4k is not a good choice for you. The hardware in the 4k box is different. It does run V2 tunes, but it runs the 4k version of the base tune. It has a much harsher pull down to ground on the fueling solenoid. This means it is not smooth, once fueling on the wiretap starts you should expect to be wrapping it out to 4k + and you should expect CELS. The 4k is strictly race and it cannot run normal v2 tunes, and even if it could it would still not be smooth. The regular unit is best for %99 of the guys out there, it still can fuel to 3700, but the rpm range where nearly everyone uses their trucks is far more friendly compared to the 4k box.

DAP would be my first choice as they use a rebuilder with a 815 bench.

yes those are safe. Low rpms / high timing / high load is what causes headgasket issues.

Thats the egt gauge. we can't answer you level question until we know what you are running on the box and what vehicle profile you have selected. The revision on the box under the hood must match the vehicle profile in the app. If you have V2 under the hood you can run V2 vehicle profile. If you have the older ADR1000/2000/3000/beta tunes then you cannot use the v2 vehicle profile as none of the tuning variables match. Mixing and matching will cause all sorts of weird issues.

Does it bucks at high rpm or high throttle?