AH64ID

It's a SMF and it's quiet! The O-HD is a smoother and quieter product than the OFE. I like the way it drives better and the O-HD is rated to hold 425/900 and at my last dyno I was 415/850, but I have turned it down just a little matching the fuel to the airflow at 6K feet. Probably no chance of a video anytime soon as the truck isn't here. When dad removed his DMF with 90K on it the DMF was trashed even thou there were zero indications from the cab. It was actually rather impressive how bad it was for no indications.

If the power holding is enough I would go with the O-HD from SBC. I have the OFE and my dad has the O-HD in his 06 G56. My next clutch will be a O-HD.

Looks good! My 19.5's with counteract balance beads are amazingly smooth.

PM me your number and I'll give you a call to chat about what I know.

Same impression... but I've heard different things. I'm trying to get to the bottom of it. MM3 seems to use UDC Pro so same tables... but not sure how it deletes.

Still researching... The Touch is not able to do deletes, but I am not sure on the MM3 yet. The MM3 comes with a CommMod so its' actually cheaper than a touch/commod.

The 2 minutes of totality up in Garden Valley went by way too fast! It was quite awesome. Around 85-90% it got noticeably darker and cooler, shadows got fuzzy, and the crickets started their evening chirping routine. As the last 0.01% of sunlight faded it got dark quick and the coronoa appeared! We were able to see stars, most notably was Venus. What a great show!

I found out yesterday that a MM3 is actually more money than a Touch, despite not having box tunes. AFAIK they can both do deletes as they both use UDC Pro. I'll do some more research.

'Mercia

You should download UDC Pro and look at all the availabe tables for your MY. There are some exhaust brake tables in UDC Pro for a 2008 G56. http://www.madselectronics.com/DownloadUDCProRT.html The MM3 will allow you to put UDC Pro tunes into your ECM, and have digital gauges. http://www.smartyresource.com/mm3.aspx

Personally I like the UDC Pro tuning platform a lot better than EFI. It seems to have more tables available. To tune with UDC Pro you would need a Touch and a UDC Pro Dongle... that's it. If you dont plan on running Smarty box tunes you can get a MM3 and save some cash. It's a touch without any Smarty tunes.

I was just reading about welding glass. I guess it has to be a shade 12 or darker. Most report that 12 is safe but still on the uncomfortable side of bright. NASA recommends a 13/14 if able.

It's not an actual outlet per se. The grease is supposed to go thru the outer wheel bearing and feed back into the cap. The machined opening lets you see the outer bearing with the rubber cap removed (if grease isn't blocking your view). This forces the grease back into the cap. What I have seen normally happen is the double lip seal is weaker than the force required to push grease both bearings and you lube the brakes. The grease will also expand with heat and push out the double lip seal.

Haha... yep! I had it happen more at first. It's been 2 years since I recall it happening last. I adjust pressure quite a bit too. I've been running beaded tires for almost 4 years now.

AFIK that's how all the OEM greaseable axles are lubed (at least ALKO and Dexter). It may work OK in theory but I have seen more than one trailer where the double lip seal is the path for grease to escape over the end cap "exit". E-Z Lube was designed for boat trailers where filling to 100% allows for immersion in water without a repack each time. E-Z Lube made it was to other trailers, but IMHO it shouldn't have. I also believe that Dexter and Al-Ko both state that E-Z Lube/Ultra Lube both state that use of that system does not remove or change the standard packing requirements.

It's something a few folks have added to help the OEM sealed wheel bearings out. I'm not a fan of it... where does the old grease go? Ever pulled a trailer axle apart where they weren't ever torn down, cleaned, and repacked but they did have grease added thru a grease buddy? It's nasty! Timkin states that over greasing is one contributing factor for bearings running hotter than they should too. If the cavity is 100% packed it's over greased. The housing actually feels cooler since the grease blocks the heat on the bearings itself.

I have had a few beads get stuck in the valve stem too. I try to eliminate the issue by filling the tire with air for a couple seconds before I go to deflate it. I haven't had an issue doing it that way, but I have forgotten a few times and it's pretty rare to get a bead into the valve stem.

With the pilot injection, pressure differences, and differences in the delay from start of injection to start of ignition it's difficult to correlate the CR to a VP. This is the main reason I don't tune VP trucks. If I had one local I could drive for a couple weeks and learn the setup that would be different. I rarely use more than 8° of main injection timing at 2000 rpms on a CR.

Advancing timing puts more power to the crank, but retarded timing makes for a cleaner burn. It's less efficient but cleaner. It's much easier to see the effects with a pilot injection. Too much timing and the CRs smoke easily and sometimes the difference is really just a degree or two. Around 1000 rpms advancing timing should reduce black smoke, as the crank speed is slow, but it doesn't take much to go too far. So from idle to 1200 a little advanced it good, but by 1600-1800 advancing timing will increase black smoke. With different injectors it can also alter the normal reaction. I've had to retarded timing to clean up idle - 1200 low load black smoke. The chart on this page is a good general rule of thumb. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/timing.htm

I change the oil and both filters every year. The bypass can probably run longer than one change but I want a fresh one each year. On my wife's 4Runner I change the bypass every other year.

That's all there is to it.

Yes the constantly updated balance is awesome. Tire balance points change as a tire wears so the weight should too. I have a friend with the same 19.5's I do and it took him 3 attempts at a balance before he was happy and they still aren't quite as smooth as mine.

I have counteracts in both sets of truck tires and am very happy! I ran centramatics for a while too they are just as good. I only removed them because of issues on rotations with Les Schwab. They consider them a spacer and they won't touch anything with wheel spacers... PITA, but whatever. My summer tires are 125lbs a piece and Schwab is 1 1/4 miles away, so I sold them. I still have centramatics on the TT and the tires wear better and the stuff inside doesn't move as much.

Interesting that it's just for the 48RE. The stress is enough lower on the 48RE trucks that they got a smaller u-joint than a manual trans truck.

All except GL-4 and GL-5 are obsolete. (I see you made an edit while I was posting ) MT-1 is a replacement for GL-1 in many applications.