AH64ID

On a side note, where did you find slick roads yesterday? I was all over Kuna, Meridian, and out to the airport and didn't see anything slick. Everything was as dry as it has been all week. You're not the first person I heard talk about slick roads, I'm just not sure where they were.

Are you looking for a tow tune at 400-450 or a street tune at 400-450 and 350-375 for towing? The reason I ask is the HE351CW is about a 350-375 rwhp turbo for towing at altitude and reasonable EGTs. The VE turbine wheel is larger and a common mod to the CW. It will spool better, reduce drive pressure, flow more, and sound better too :-) My dad has the VE turbine wheel in his CW on his 06. I have him running about a 350-375 rwhp tune and it does awesome. It's efficient, cool running, and doesn't have EGT issues until WOT above 6-7K feet in the summer.

Can’t you pull the elbow with the turbo still in the truck?

The aft 3 are supposed to run hotter, which is why they are the preferred ones to monitor. I put my 2nd probe post-turbo and am glad I did. The info it gives me is much better than having 2 probes in the manifold. Post turbo is quite useful for cool down and lugging, both of which are masked by a pre-turbo probe.

Looks like someone tried to soften the ride at one point. Those springs don’t look too happy. How many miles on the truck?

Wyoming will only require them if you're not AWD/4WD and don't have M&S/all weather tires.

Looks like fun!!! Definitely take at least one set of chains, if not 2. It's VERY rare to need chains on the interstate in these trucks, but it's better to have em and not need em than the other way around.

It always amazes me. I've seen guys argue that wind chill will freeze water, or have an effect on their truck starting. 40°F with a 20 mph wind has a windchill value of 30°F.. water will never freeze at 40°F!

The wind will lower the temperature of the fuel faster, but it cannot make the fuel colder than ambient air temp. Fuel heaters are great! I have 2 of them and can see them work and warm fuel as I drive in cold temps. Fuel heaters need to be on the 1st filter as the 1st filter is always the first to plug with gelled fuel. It doesn't matter if the 3rd filter is heated if the fuel isn't getting to it... I found this out the hard way a few years back and it's why I have 2 fuel heaters now. As fuel starts to gel the parafins are much larger than any filtration media on these trucks. FASS has a coolant and an electric option. For most of us the electric is plenty and easier to install. The coolant would be nice for those who regularly see below -10°F. All of this is in the event your fuel isn't properly winterized for the ambient temp. Properly winterized fuel (chemical or blend) doesn't need heat to keep the filters unplugged. Cold soaked is the most likely time to gel. Driving into cold weather makes it less prone to gelling as the fuel is already warmer from operation. Return fuel has some descent heat from the head and engine bay, even running along a cold frame with wind.

2005 was the first year of the in-tank lift pumps, but many 03-04's have been retrofitted with the in-tank pump. I don't know if they have modified them over the years or not, or if all retrofits are the same. I know at one point there was a different pump available with the B20 kit for 3rd gens, but it's no longer part of the kit. The short bed tank is different so I would assume that the pickup and fuel level sender are slightly different based on tank size. I've got 132K on mine and it's still going strong. I think I'm around 4200 hours of engine run time.

They are SBC hydro's and they are sealed. The original issue didn't change when I went from stock to SBC hydro's.

Typically yes, but it doesn't feel that way thou it's only happened twice. I need to mess with it more. I've always had an occasional issue when stopped and replaced the hydro's with the clutch but that didn't fix it.

My clutch just started randomly not fully releasing this week so I’m thinking it’s time for a new one. Which means I’m patiently waiting to hear what they say. The O-HD has been on my radar for years.

Wow, that really sucks! What is the pilot bearing issue?

You had a short bed right? With me in the truck, the bed empty, but with a tool box full of normal stuff, and full fuel it was 8400lbs which is heavier than most. My fender flares, running board, tool box, front hitch, and level kit all take fuel to run down the road at 70... all things I don't recall you having had on MW, but I could be suffering from memory loss. I looked but can't find any pics of the ol girl.

Yeah you did pretty good. IIRC Mighty Whitey was a lot lighter and more aero dynamic.

Bingo! The front 3 are still pumping air and that air has no real added heat. Yes it gets compressed to create heat but it also gets released which drops heat. The heat will mostly come from the head temp.

The in tank pumps are great! They last a long time and provide adequate fuel flow for at least 450rwhp. The OEM filtration on the 2012’s is also pretty good, and better than a cat filter. Adding an additional f/w sep isn’t a bad idea, but the final filtration on the Fleetguard NanoNet is as good as it gets. FS53000 is the filter you want to run, don’t bother with a competitors cross.

I've got a few engagement issues with my OF-E and I can tell you it's not a pilot bearing issue, as I'm on my 2nd without any change. I think it's a pressure plate issue on my OF-E and figured it was OF-E specific as the O-HD my dad has is like a hot knife thru butter. I hope I didn't lead you astray. Work with SBC, as I hear they are excellent to deal with on issues. It just sucks to have to R&R the trans for a clutch issue...... which is why I haven't done more to deal with my irregular engagement issues. I should have replaced the clutch when the motor was out, but I was spending too much as it was.

Man that sucks! It does sound like an issue with the new clutch. I'd work with SBC before installing the old one.

So much for a retest.... I did the same trip but I started with a descent percentage of #1 in the tank and a little cetane boost, both of which lower mpgs. I also did the first 80 miles with a 30 mph head wind. Even with all of that it looks like I got 20.5 ± 0.5, based on fuel level and overhead standard error (yes, I'm the nerd who averages his overhead error). I didn't have time to top off and hand calc prior to running other errands and such. Quite happy!

I think the II 64 is too big for a towing turbo for regular towing in the mountains. I don't really believe it's set up to tow as the electric fans are not rated to move as much air as the OEM fan and they really limit your ability to tow. The 03-05's are reported as more comfortable than the 06-09's. With modern tuning there isn't as good of a reason to stick to the 03-04 HO, but those are STOUT trucks. Injectors are money, but I love my common rail and wouldn't trade it.

Last Monday I drove from Challis, ID to Kuna, ID and got 22.8 mpg! It's overall downhill but there are 2 descent grades to climb as well. My previous best was 21.5 and I've only broken 20 2 or 3 times. Normally mid 19's is excellent for this truck. It's heavy and has plenty of things to induce drag. I got full on the refill so I don't think it's a big error, and I'll have another change to try and duplicate it this fall. I did get 19.4 going the longer route two weeks ago and all of that was above 70 so it does check based on the slower speed of the shorter, but curvy, route. Avg speed for the tank was 47.0. I took the pic while it was in my shop getting the oil changed, so there is even 5-10 minutes of excess idling on the tank. I've been tweaking my cruise timing but that's a bigger jump than anticipated but I'll take it. Bed was full of crap, to include a XL dog crate, there were all above the bed rails. I was all of 9,500 lbs and have my winter 33" mud tires on too.

Yeah it could have been a lot worse!

I bought a MevoTech kit. It was cheap and feels good so far, but it's only been in since July. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008QE0YLW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1