AH64ID

Not sure we will ever see a turbo with an axial combo, it's just takes too much room and power... but who knows. I do know that the T700 I fly with has 5 axial and one centrifical and it can get to 17:1... but 75% of the fuel burned is to keep the compressor running!

Blade design is probably more important than diameter. Smaller will spool faster too.

At low to mid throttle or low rpms it runs the potential to run hotter and smokier the higher in elevation one gets, especially in summer. (Think density altitude vs actual altitude). Pics are certainly needed!!!

Should be a good setup for you. It's very similar in size to a HE351, but those are 7 blade like a Super 40 wheel. What is the turbine housing size? It looks like you have the turbine wheel inducer/exducer labeled backwords.

When I had a stock cam and a drive pressure gauge I would monitor back pressure with the EB. The fixed orifice brake on my truck will be similar to all fixed orifice brakes as they all need to maintain 60 psi. I was able to build 60 psi around 1800 rpms, meaning that from 1800-redline they will all be about the same, fixed or variable. The PXRB has the advantage on back pressure below 1800, as does the BD variable brake, but the low rpms will reduce the retarding hp as well. Some anti-Jacobs advertisements claim a huge reduction at elevation and while I saw small backpressure reduction it wasn't anything remarkable. Now that I have a bigger cam I would actually lose retarding hp by switching to a PXRB, but I wouldn't mind ditching the belt driven vac pump.

But the question wasn't how much retarding hp was needed, it was asking if one existed. :-) I too have adequate retarding hp for most of my loads and descents, and even when the EB isn't quite enough it sure doesn't take a lot of service brake to help it out. 6-8% grades at 20Klbs and I can hold 55-60 with minimal service brakes so I'm quite happy.

The 6.7 with its VGT EB is supposed to be more retarding hp than the 5.9 with an EB. The load leash adds to that, so a loadleash with a PXRB would be substantially more than a PXRB alone. The load leash works in conjunction with the VGT EB, so it's not a one or the other type thing.

I know that people use 5.9 heads on 6.7 blocks so I don't see why it wouldn't fit.

That's how they advertise it, but unless I am missing something I am not sure why it wouldn't work on a 5.9 with a PXRB unless the PXRB cannot maintain backpressure at 60 psi. The engine doesn't care if there is an exhaust brake or a VGT on the manifold as it just reacts to backpressure. Based on how they describe it's operations it should work with a PXRB....unless it's too much backpressure, but that can be controlled with bigger valve springs :-)

With my cam I hit 75 psi!!!! I'm glad I have upgraded valve springs. I have always thought that the loadleash would work with a 5.9, but I haven't tried.

With all the adjustability you have gained recently I am surprised to see you going the P-Pump route. Or are you after more fuel than a VP can flow?

I would guess either the head or block is warped, or they aren't installed properly.

Most service intervals have a time or mileage change interval, so i'd look more into your current fluids and recommended service intervals.

What kind of head gasket issues? Some get 80K and some get 400K out of their injectors. It all depends on filtration, fuel, and luck.

Yes the 190° isn't fully open until 207°. It takes a lot of power to get it to go fully open on the street when empty. I've personally never seen it happen on my truck with over 400 rwhp, and it takes a decent hill towing to happen too. Get an adapter and put your boost sender in the coolant port :-)

It's been a while since I've been in either, but I always understood the wagon platform to be bigger than the Forster platform.

So what about an electric ball valve on a WOT switch? Open up a 1/2" or 3/4" line off the rear freeze plug or head port to post thermostat whenever you are WOT. https://www.amazon.com/HSH-Flo-Motorized-DC9-36V-Normally-Electric/dp/B00WDPZ26M/ref=pd_sim_328_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00WDPZ26M&pd_rd_r=Q1R61WM0DJ822H4SJ43X&pd_rd_w=ANuD6&pd_rd_wg=arnCj&psc=1&refRID=Q1R61WM0DJ822H4SJ43X Should... but in his example earlier it wouldn't be.

It can easily resolve that issue by opening at temp before pressure rises so that pressure is never allowed to build. In the end it will do the same thing by flowing fluid away from the back of the block but it never lets it build in the first place.

Most people have issues by romping on a cold motor. If the motor is warm it is very very rare to have any freeze plug issues. The issue also isn't just the water pump but the expansion of the cylinder wall during combustion creating a ripple in the coolant. I've read about issues with pressure relief because if the main thermostat isn't open the pressure relief isn't enough and freeze plugs pop. I like the thermostat idea but it may work better for long pulls and/or towing. I have also read about guys removing their thermostat and running an electric water pump on a temperature switch. This keeps the water pump from accelerating out of it's operational range and doesn't have the issue of building pressure with the thermostat closed.

Have you considered a coolant bypass that has a thermostat? I'd put a thermostat in that opens 10° above the engine thermostat.

I thought I read that there was a fire-sale on the previous editions a while back. The only one I would run is the one with the alignment pin.

I'd do OEM if it were mine. I read about many non-OEM premature failures.

What are you using to verify oil pressure? If it's the stock gauge and it dropped to 0 that means you were under 6 psi for at least 30 seconds. I'd be worried about a lot more than just the turbo.

Don't forget shipping with rock auto.

Got a link to OEM for $240? The cheapest ones I've found aren't even close to that low.