Dynamic

Why not pull the valve body and fix it?

NO, if you put the fans on a thermostatic switch, you'll be just fine.

If you jump terminals 30 and 87 at the relay, does the starter engage? If so, then your starter is fine. If not, you're looking for something on that circuit. Neutral safety switch would be out of the loop at that point. Are you getting power on terminal 86 at the relay when the key is in the crank position? (Use a test light, not a DVOM. DVOM's require basically zero current flow to read voltage, and can definitely lead you on a goose chase in a situation like this.) If so, then your ignition switch is working correctly. If not, you're looking on that circuit. If you ground pin 2 at the NSS, does it crank? If so, then that circuit is working fine, and the problem lies with either the switch itself, or the cam on the rooster comb (the purple thing), which is what I would suspect since you had the valve body out. If the transmission is in OD, it will not manually downshift until OD is commanded off and the transmission completes the downshift to 3rd.

You do get the core charge back when you return your core.

I wasn't so much referring to you. Someone on here was pretty annoyed that core charges were so much, when the cores were a lot cheaper than what was charged as a "core charge".

It's because we want our core back! Believe me, we don't want your money, we want a serviceable core back to build for the next guy. Dealing with cores is one of the worst parts of this business. I'm not selling you the core, I want it back. It's a deposit that's on the steep side so you don't sit on it. Most guys are pretty motivated to get their $1200-1500 back. I have a list of orders that require the timely return of that core so I can get it built for the next guy. And I'm not sure why everyone is so spun up about what I'm paying for 47RE cores. It's not like I'm calling up the local wrecking yard or shopping for them on Craigslist. As a shop owner that specializes in diesel transmissions, I get at least one or two guys a month that call me up, or stop by wanting to know if I want to buy this core or that. If I'm in need of one, I'll pay up to $150 for a 47RE with a converter. Most guys take it, but some don't. Doesn't matter to me. I have a ton of 47RE cores, so that's all they're worth to me. On the flip side, I'll pay $400-500 for a good late-model 48RE core with converter, and sometimes even more for a good 68RFE, late 5R110, late Allison, or 6R140.

Some Cummins stuff is more valuable than others. A 47RE is not among the "more valuable".

If you're paying more than about $150 for a 47RE (with converter), you're paying WAY too much. A 48RE is a whole different story, though.

If you're referring to the intermediate band lever, then I would recommend the TCS 4.2 lever at that power level. You'll also want a billet input shaft at that power level. Stall speed will depend upon your specific setup, but either DPC or Goerend for the converter would be my recommendation.

Can't help you there... LOL

Late '99-'02 47's are interchangeable. As long as it has the plastic transducer. You can convert the early metal style transducers over to the later plastic one fairly easily if need be. Just avoid the older 12 valves as their cases are likely to be missing a mounting boss you'll need for the shift linkage. A 48RE will have the wrong style neutral safety switch, and no real easy way to adapt the one you need. 48RE cores are quite expensive as well. 47RE cores are dime-a-dozen.

None of my vehicles get very good mileage, but I don't drive very much, so it evens out. When the vehicle in my stable that gets the best mileage is my wife's Hemi Durango, you know you're getting the short end of the mileage stick! I have 3 vehicles; a Hemi Durango, a diesel pickup, and a BMW X5. The one that gets the worst mileage...the BMW, and by a wide margin! LOL But, diesel in Stateline, ID is $2.74/gal, and I don't own a diesel truck for its mileage, so I'm OK with all of that.

Needs to be rebuilt. They all have their life span. This one is at the end of it. Probably lost the OD clutch if I had to guess. That's why guys like me have a job! LOL

And the diesels have a 6th gear on top of that. Same basic configuration (except the components are a LOT beefier). I'm actually building a 68RFE right now.

I'm not sure I remember saying that the 45RFE's, 5-45RFE's and 68RFE's were junk. They are fully electronically controlled, and have different issues than the 4 speeds (which are basically 60's technology), but they work just fine, especially after some nice mods. Plus, they have 6 gears (68RFE behind the diesels)!

If you have a single disc converter (which, at $600, you do...), I would not run anything but ATF+4 in it. you'll need the friction modifier to control converter clutch chatter. I don't recommend running anything but Automatic Transmission Fluid in an automatic transmission.

Sounds like they may not have used a very good converter, or pressure is low...or both.

OK. I see what he's referring to now. Yes, they do have kevlar fibers in the weave, but the Pro Series is a high-energy woven carbon style band. It's not what is typically referred to as a "kevlar" band. That's where I was confused. Either way, they're a great band! LOL!! Carry on.....

Where does my build sheet show kevlar bands?

I don't use kevlar bands in anything. I put a pressure relief valve in the governor circuit to protect the transducer from high line pressure.

I wouldn't hold my breath on that one...

To say that I've been busy in the shop would be the understatement of the year! This month has been a bunch of Fords, a TON of 68RFE's, a few 48RE's, and @IBMobile's 2WD 47RE thrown in for good measure. (Shipped it out yesterday for those scoring at home...) Crazy towns... There are some parts of the Transgo kit that work pretty well, and some parts that don't. There are some parts of the Superior kit that work pretty well, and some parts that don't. Transgo is usually the popular one because they've marketed it well to the DIY crowd. If I were to recommend an off-the-shelf setup, it would be a combination of Transgo (with some steps in the instructions omitted) and Superior (again, with some steps omitted), with a little Sonnax sprinkled over the top. But without the right separator plates, you just won't get all of the benefits.

The SFI 29.1 flex plate is included with the Stage 2 build. Stage 3 and higher include a full billet flex plate. No builder would intentionally put a "fuse" in the system. The flex plate is no exception. The SFI 29.1 flex plate is more than most people will ever dream of needing.

The converter to flex plate bolts torque to 38 lb/ft.

Yep... This. ^^^