dobienut

I don't think you could really go wrong at that price for the trailer. Even just the frame and tongue and the labour/time to put that together was worth the money. Will make a nice little trailer

Penzoil here also.

Lower your spare tire down and see if the harness chaffed somewhere up between the tire and frame. Happened to mine a while back and thats what it was. Soon as the bare touched the metal pop goes the fusey

What's the reasoning for maxing out the caster? I heard some doing it to help with wander issues, just curious if that's your reason and how do you decide what to take it to if so?

I'd definetley go with a load range E tire. They're a heavier built tire meant for heavy loads and if you're hauling something heavy and unfortunatley get in an accicdent, thats one less thing they can try to put the blame on you over by not having them.

So much for that idea . I looked at the box in mine, smaller then the one I need to put in and mine only has the one wiring harness whereas that one needs two. I have the whole dash from the donor truck and the harnesses from both trucks, but i'm laying money none of the plugs would match up to whats in my truck. And gas to diesel even complicates it more

Was the plug the same on the one you swapped in as the one you took out? I have got into doing it yet, just curious as to what I'm going to get into

Yea I was wondering if it's just a matter of swapping out the boxes with the one from my donor truck and then I'd have the heated seats /remote locks etc. Some articles i've read say you can plug it in and go, some say you can't unless you get the dealer to reprogram it, some say it can't be done at all

Thanks for the reply. What about the auto door locks? Is that all ECM or PCM controlled or is that small black box under the dash that controls door chime and other stuff and needs to be swapped?

I've never noticed this clunk you speak of, but I just got done working on ABS issues. One post I read to help determine if it is rear speed sensor is jack the truck up in the rear and put it in gear and accelerate. If the speedometer functions and seems to function properly without huge spikes, it's most likely not that rear sensor. Mine ended up being the right front and I found out by getting someone take a scanner to get the fault. I replaced the line and no issues since. Very easy to swap the sensor out also

Id've unleashed on them. I wouldn't care if it was them or the inspector, it happened when the truck was in their care at their dealership, plain and simple. And the fact that it's that close to running off warranty and they got out of putting a part on it, maybe a phone call to Chrysler Headquarters may rattle some chains. I always thought calling the head offices was a joke but I actually did gets response from Toyota Head office when I called and complained about the dealer, and then the dealer woke up!

I think i'd be driving back and asking them to come out and look at something , and I'd have the scanner plugged in with the readings on it saying it was cleared. Ask them to explain that one!

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/dept.aspx?dept_id=07-001 A few of us on here I think has bought pumps from this guy...excellent customer service. I see he's currently sold out, you'd have to call to find out the scoup. Some of the best money you'll spend on your truck:spend:

Fuel Boss without a doubt IMO

I have to agree with you, but that being said I do have a buddy that did one for a friend of his, he took the time and did it properly and it turned out to be a decent truck. All in the mechanic doing it I guess

http://jalopnik.com/this-is-the-best-takedown-of-the-speed-kills-myth-you-1302382244

Isn't that what 75% of the population coming out of schools is turning out to be nowdays? Most young people don't want to work, unless it's dealing with a cell phone or computer they can play on

I'd look for scrappings on the frame, may be a way of telling if they hooked in any spots and used a straightener on it.If you see they just recently undercoated it with black undercoat that you can't see the frame, to me that's trying to hide something. Open the doors and look in around the firewall where the seem comes down from the bottom of the windshield and is sealed from factory to see if they gobbed it shut from being split open when it was hit. Stand back and look for the obvious..side to side is the cab sitting on correct, off to one side more? Look at the gaps in the doors and fenders, the hood..see how the gaps line up and differences from side to side. A good repairman will take the time to get them correct, a bad repair will be sloppy to get it out the door. Quite possibly it was twisted bad enough the gaps can't be set properly. Last but least, drive it. Go down the road and let go of the wheel..see how bad it takes off on you or if the steering is stiff. Stiff could mean something is bent out of place and causing tension on moving parts that you may not see. I know when I got mine home I went to have it aligned and they couldn't get camber in specs on the drivers side. I thought it was from where it was hit but after some reading I see if was a problem for some of these trucks , must be why they started making adjustable ball joints I guess. I put a set in and it fixed the issue.

LMAO ! At least theyre be free Wi-Fi in the camps

Problem fixed. Was the front right line going to the hub. Wasn't difficult at all to switch out either, just took my time and sprayed penetrating fluid around it to make it pull out easier.

Isn't the Fuel Boss modeled off the Assasin?

Change the shims in the bypass to give you higher pressures

Thanks Dripley. Last time I changed out a hub assmebley I looked at the wires...I didn't think I could change them on my hubs. I unbolted the screw on it but the wire seemed to be lodged in the hub that it couldn't or wasn't suppose to be able to be replaced without doing the hub Then again, I didn't go pulling at it to hard so maybe it does:think:

ok, so the speed sensor in the rear housing would not cause this issue then? Also, unless there's a way I don't see, if I end up replacing sensors in front that means two new wheel bearing assemblies ?