Vais01

Interesting results. Although CAT does have their own standards that they apply to their oil (still within the upper CJ-4 limit).

I agree. Chances are on of the quick connect fittings has a bad seal in it or the threaded fittings on the pump are loose.

I agree. 100's can be used with an HX35W but it will be a little hot and smokey.

I use a fork and a 4 pounds of persuasion. I do have another trick but I would rather not mention as some people would break something or hurt themselves.

It seems to be working.

That is a great place. Now I did see 140 degrees today on my intake probe (not the one on the head). Going to probably pull the BHAF and go to the factory box again. The BHAF is good but I want to see if my transient response changes any. Only way to confirm it is go back and test it.

Good info. Question is where is your intake manifold IAT sensor at as I am currently drawing a blank?

RV275 injectors are the way to go. I run 7x.009 (100 horsepower) and I have larger a turbo to support them.

That is nuts. I bought 6 connector tubes for 28 dollars each.

Mine engages and howls like a Kenworth at a stoplight trying to accelerate.

There is no pickup besides the transmission filter attached to the valve body which if memory serves me right it is always bathing in ATF.

How far is "way overdue"?

Remind me not to be around when the torch is going to be used.

Well thank you for that fine idea. Tuna sandwiches will be for dinner at my place and pickles on the side.

Just a tiny bit warmer than normal. Then again a Kansas driver was the reason I wrecked my first car. I think that state has some of the very worst drivers I have seen. It's as if they don't pay attention. Rant done. I'm glad the turbo is working better. So far I think your on the right track now if only you could seamlessly have the controller and tunner together.

I'd like to hear more on this. I'm curious. May help with combustion.

It probably would not have much benefits as the air is mixed hot and cold. Even with my BHAF I see a 25 degree difference in temps from my 2 sensors and a 20 degree difference from my air intake probe (not the IAT). Air box is slightly warmer than BHAF but my airbox is modified.

Thermostat would only open momentarily because the road speed would still keep the radiator very cold and the cold air may keep the thermostatic switch on the fan clutch from engaging. In winter my 190 degree thermostat opens up only when I'm really romping down on it otherwise it may stay shut the entire trip.

Cummins has them cheaper than Mopar and it's the most current version. I would say I paid 35 for it.

Interesting, I wonder if it would hurt running year round with that thermostat?

I was actually asking dripley haha. 200 degree thermostat is s bit overkill is it not?

No PDF that was from an internal contact. It is carry over from the CJ-4 tests. Tappet, Cam and cross head wear.

No extended pick up just an additional few quarts of ATF to help manage temps a bit better. I also have one from Mag Hytech

Well after a little looking around CK-4 is in testing phase and a Cummins ISB specific test is there for flat tappet wear. This is a good sign for us.

When did you do a coolant flush last? I ask because I would inspect the thermostat and make sure it is a 190 degree genuine Cummins thermostat as they have altered the design for better performance. The BHAF may help with warm up time since it draws air from all around the engine bay. Other option is pull the snorkel on the airbox.