Vais01

Get a little warm on you haha. It happens. How hot did your coolant temp get?

Make sure you have a good tuna fork. Also pneumatic hammers help alot. Your on your own with the beer and band-aids though.

I've seen plenty of 20 degree weather in my truck. Mostly west Texas or central Texas and even still I can idle all the way up to operating temperature (165-180). Are you running a BHAF or the factory air box? I just saw you have a BHAF

Try checking the air gap on the sensor with the shims vs the sensor without. Could be affecting the performance of the hall sensors.

Load helps a diesel quite a bit. The harder they work the more power they produce. Once you exceed 80% to 85% load then you begin over working the engine and really produce alot of heat.

You cycle through all the gears pausing between 3 to 5 seconds then you leave it in neutral to do the fluid check. You must cycle through the gears for the most accurate reading.

My oil analysis never saw fuel dilution from idling to warm up or any increase in wear metals, at the same time I should have been more specific. I wait for my EGT to stabilize about 2 min after start up. Once that happens if the temps are not very cold I drive away with a whole lot of clatter. If the temps are below the freezing mark and are 20 degrees or less I will idle for a bit longer until the clatter reduces. I'm sure the BHAF will help warm everything up a bit better since engine bay temps are warmer than what the airbox would ingest.

Here is a good question. How did you check the level? Simply pulling the dipstick won't show an accurate reading. You need to cycle through all the gears pausing for 3 to 5 seconds to allow fluid to fully fill all the accumulators and components to read it accurately. Start at park work your way down the column and see what you see on the dipstick. Remember there is a cold and hot mark.

That's interesting and odd. I'd look at the thermostat. Your thermostat has 2 functions first help the engine warm up to operating temp. Second it allows coolant flow to pass through when needed to keep the temps low. So if I guess it's probably stuck open and allowing cold coolant from the radiator to continue flowing through the block.

Seems cooler weather is sneaking in. In my experience I haven't seen much difference in cold conditions as long as I am above 165 on coolant temps. In winter it is not uncommon for me to let the truck idle until temps are between 165 and 180 degrees.

That's right shaft acceleration. That's good to hear I bet now you will see near the full potential of the turbo.

Just a tiny bit smaller. I don't think the truck knew it was there haha.

Still thinking. A turn to create a power loss is very odd. I'm thinking that that may be something other than the transmission. Possibly the truck starving for fuel. I'd recommend you keep the tunner in the off position so you don't risk running the VP44 dry.

I highly agree.

CJ-4 is good oil that's for sure. I run synthetic for several reasons including longer than normal drain intervals and because I may not be capable of plugging in if I'm in cold climates. The TBN values alone are not that different 12 on average for CI-4 and 10 for CJ-4. CI-4 Plus was a whole different animal. Huge TBN values. As far as additives go they have reduced some zink and phosphorous and pulled alot of sulfur out. Ck-4 is the next generation and honestly I am afraid to mention the things I have read. Drastically lower phosphorus levels and several other reduced values. They have not stated whether or not this will also apply on the reverse compatible oils. Hopefully this is sorted out. As of now the formulation has been frozen and no one is allowed to alter it. Engine manufacturers such as Ford have raised concerns but it's falling on deaf ears. I'm staying hopeful though.

Pretty good numbers there. A little practice on the tree and you can definitely knock off a bit more time. Boosted launch?

I always install mine clean and dry never had an issue. Just be sure to tighten the clamps good on mine I've got a few weak ones so to counter it I've nearly bottomed out the springs. Also a quick tip. If you keep blowing boots off a connection point and can't buy upgrades right away get some hair spray and spray onto the metal portions it will act like adhesive and get you by for a bit. Removing them will be a chore but like I said it will get you out of a bind.

They are great as long as people know how to use them.

Have you changed your fuel filter? An injection shop would be where to have the injectors tested but if you can not pull them yourself you might as well take it to a mechanic shop in general. I'd recommend an aftermarket lift pump. Chances are your tuner is bleeding your VP44 dry and causing you grief. If so you can have surging issues, power loss and eventually kill the VP44 or in this case potentially get a timing plunger stuck. A sticky timing plunger in the VP44 can cause a knock. Can you localize the sound? What part of the engine has the knock?

Agreed perhaps a loose fitting that is allowing air to be drawn in after shutdown but not fuel to leak out. I'd say if you have a QD type fitting I'd check the seals.

Quick little update drove a little 40 mile trip today with great results. Temps stayed right around 25 degrees of ambient and most of this was stop and go. So far it's working great.

I agree most of these filters have one thing in mind and that is air flow. They work well under track like conditions but not real world driving. I will say this companies are figuring this out and are capable of producing products with different media and designs from the OE level that can support enough volume of air for large power numbers up and over 500 horsepower. Donaldson's Powercore element is one of these filters.

Very nice. So is that with the 14cm vane position and the new settings you added for the load sensing?

I have seen several dealerships void warranty for anything aftermarket. That said a K&N WILL VOID POWERTRAIN WARRANTY. Seen this more than a few times. If and when I do buy a new vehicle I will purchase something and leave it completely factory until the warranty expires. These modern engines are expensive to repair. An example is on a Ford 6.7 Powerstroke the injection system replacement due to contamination (incorrect fuel, excessive water, DEF in fuel etc.) or component failure will run you upwards of 9000.00 in repairs. A new engine due to inappropriate oil or running it low will cost roughly 20,000.00 dollars. Warranty is roughly 2500 bucks and will pay for all of the above (as long as its not operator error). My last run in with K&N engineering really showed me their true colors. I do not recommend any K&N product due to thus as they do not stand behind it. They did however stand behind the money back guarantee.

The factory filters are not exactly the same. There are quite a few copies of the Donaldson Powercore design but are much more restrictive. Now I had a K&N filter on a 2005 Tacoma it worked fine from about 50,000 miles when I installed it up to about 168,000 when the seal around the drop in element quit sealing. Pretty severe dirt ingestion occurred soon after. The K&N drop in filter was removed and a factory style drop in element was put in its place. Now on any vehicle that has a MAF sensor especially on a gasoline engine you will typically see a 7-25 horsepower drop using a high flow element and an increase in fuel consumption because the MAF sees additional air and then to keep the air to fuel ratio correct the engine compensates by adding fuel. On a diesel this may not occur but I still do not believe in any oiled filters. I've had 2 air filters (oil types) fail on me, on two separate vehicles. Now for your ABS or PVC idea. You just need a short piece possibly 4-5 inches long to insert into the factory tubing to the turbo from the filter and in that piece drill a small hole for the filter minder grommet.