sooxies

I replaced all cables on my 98.5 with a set from http://www.custombatterycables.com/ . Very pleased with how the new ones turned out. Trying to think of what I should do with my old set. The terminals are shot, they have lost their clamping power, but I know that can be fixed with new terminals being put on. Maybe theres a member out there who may need a set. Only one terminal had a very very minor amount of corrosion which I cleaned off. When it comes to scrapping any insulated wire, do you get more if you take the insulation off? I have never scrapped insulated wire.

Lots of good info on here....glad to have read through. I've only been driving a standard shift since 2012 so even I'm still learning as I always will be. Don't ever lug the truck either...any automobile for a matter of fact.

Took it right to the scrap yard...pocketed $50. there's still 1 cat still on the car. The entire system was shot anyways. Every component had either: a hole in it, rust, and/or was damaged from today. Buddy of mine has a little hole in the wall garage in the middle of nowhere and he does custom exhausts. I might pick up a set of long tube headers for $199 and have him come up with something simple for me to keep her quiet. OEM parts are expensive unfortunately or are hard to find. Has a lot of snap to her though. 2.7 litre 6-cylinder with a 5 speed. Lots of fun to drive.

I'm sure some of you fellas will get a kick out of this. 1986 BMW E28.....odometer stopped a while ago at 185,250. This automobile refuses to quit. Runs just fine but now you need earmuffs to drive it so the exhaust drone doesn't scramble your brains. One single rubber exhaust hanger was all that it was clinging to life on. Nothing like a little exhaust carnage

I may end up just powdercoating them in the end. If it's going to be a lot of hoops to jump through and money spent it's just not going to be worth it in the long run. But I'm going to make some calls tomorrow. See what can be done. What turned me off from powdercoating is getting the center caps to match the powdercoat. I do not believe you can powdercoat plastic let alone blast it with any sort of media?...that is my big worry. Local business was $60-70 per wheel if I recall...for blasting and powdercoating. May end up being the best option. I'll be sure to post pictures of the final result but it maybe a while. Cheers!

So I picked up a set of fourth gen. wheels for my 98.5 and I'm looking for opinions as to what I can do to get these wheels looking like new. I was initially going to powdercoat them but I did a 180 once I saw how they looked on the truck with a factory finish. Luckily these wheels do not have any curb-rash, dings, nicks, etc. They did come off a 2011 model year truck that has seen it's Wisconsin winters. All imperfections aren't even that bad but I really want them to look like new before I mount tires on them. I am confused as to what the what the process is to giving alloy wheels the finish they have. I am also confused as to where to take them to. I have yet to call around since I'm busy with work. If my wants for the wheels are possible to get resolved, then I will have a business(s) take care of it due to my work schedule. Could they be sandblasted and then polished? I have a good relationship with a collision center that I've done business with over the years? Call them? Again, I do not know where to take them or what process(es) would need to be done to get them to like new condition. Thanks Fellas

Just wanted to say.....I got a set from Mopar that I found on eBay back when I first got my truck. The instructions stated there is a torque sequence. I'm out of town and do not have the instructions in front of me but I'd be curious if other brands require this. I did not have a torque wrench when I put them on and they did shake a tiny bit. Once I got them properly torqued my shaking issues went away. Shaking may not even be the right word...vibration. It really wasn't too bad but it's now perfect; even at freeway speeds. I'm not sure if that could be a cure for others...but it did work for me.

Oh I wouldn't steal the vehicle....my business would just be with the dog

I would contemplate sneaking up on your pupper and tickling him into submission . I only say this because I've been dog-sick since 2014 when I had to put my old girl down. I love seeing the four-legged fellas.

I'll keep an eye out for it and spread the word....central Wisconsin. I'm a craigslist junkie as well so I'll be on the lookout for parts and/or anything suspicious.

I feel like you pay for the name when it comes to Autometer....If I did it again I'd go with ISSPRO but so far no complaints from my Spek Pro's. Formally made by Pro Parts LLC which Autometer now owns. The thing I like about these is that you can set a high and a low point so the gauge will flash red when it reaches the high/low point you set. They also have peak recall so you can see what the gauge maxed out at. I'm sure these features are on other gauges out there? I picked these up for a decent price so I went with them.

I've been having trouble searching for threads on this site so I apologize if this has been covered! Found a set of 2011 wheels in excellent shape off of a 1 ton. I just want to be certain that they will fit and/or if they would need to be modified to fit! I have a Dana 80 rear with drums. Only info that I've found so far is that I would need different lug nuts. Could have sworn I have seen a member who has the same wheels on his rig! Thank You

You weren't by any chance having a leak were you? I currently have a leak right at the output seal on my DHD. Not sure if changing the seal will fix the problem or not. FSM states.....

Yes! Thank You! 55274936AE is what I ordered (2 of em') and it fits perfectly. My squeak has gone away.

My friends, I'm trying to understand the bushings that are on these tailgates. I'm confused on part #17 and #1 on the diagram. I just ordered two of the #17; those are the bushings that sit on the bed and the pivots (#5/#16) slide into (hence why it says 2 for quantity). I'm just confused as to what the #1 is for on the diagram. It says you only need one (1) of them? Right hand side only? It's weird because when I look up the part number it looks like what I just ordered (2nd photo). Again, I'm just confused on whether or not I need to replace another part (#1) or if I am missing it all together? I'm replacing this #17 because the tailgate has a fair amount of play when rocking it left to right but more so it squeaks like mad going down the road. I can't say that this will fix the left-to-right looseness of the tail gate but I'm fairly certain it will fix the squeak; I narrowed it down to that spot. It is latching just fine after I adjusted the strikers on it. I'll add more to this if anything comes to my mind. I mainly drive with my rear slider open so this had to get fixed before I went postal from Jiminy Cricket squeaking away in my tailgate.

Gauges! Autometer Spek Pro. Actually made by Pro Parts LLC. which Autometer bought out. They were overkill by all means but I managed to get them for cheap. Features are: Set high/low warnings for each gauge 7 different colors with individual brightness adjustment Peak recall Gauge output control (you can activate a relay to control another device when the gauge hits a highpoint) We'll see how reliable they will be over the years. Thank You Mr. Nelson with the advice on setting up the FP sending unit. Sorry the gauge faces are blurry. Camera didn't get a bead on them

It really is...might as well call it the Little Honkin' Air Filter or Baby Honkin' Air Filter

Just took the truck out for the first drive of the year. Filter fits excellent in the space given. You can angle it right at the port where cold air comes in if you desire! Kind of hard to see, but in the one photo it contacts right on the plastic lip of the filter and the rubber end on the factory stud. Filter touches nothing else! I'll be keeping an eye on the rubber end for wear. I stuck a camera in there for a 30 minute drive and it didn't move an inch. The sound is awesome if you have your silencer ring out. It's not overpowering either...the turbo whine. Just the right amount. However, last time I drove my truck it had a stock exhaust and intake so everything is sounding awesome right now. This morning, I just finished putting in this little guy and my 4" exhaust with an FTE Resonator (Highly Recommend! No Drone!) Nice to catch a wonderful day here in Wisconsin with 52 degrees.

Thank You all. Apologies, this is my 6th vehicle in seven years so I've been on many forums where it's all lecture/lecture/lecture. Immediately after I finished posting this, I ran out for kicks to try it again and it started just fine . Did not touch the truck at all. I do believe this vehicle is cursed. I just drove a nice 70 miles today with starting and stopping...no issues. Now with the problem I was having before, Is there a could chance the issue could come back? Any action I should take. Again, having zero issues currently.

98.5-----5 speed. Having an issue where I'm not getting the starter to engage the flywheel. Starter will go, but will not turn over the engine. Batteries are brand new as are my cables (I'm 100% sure that my connections are all good.....now ) The story........................ This initially started out as just a "1 click, no start" when turning the key; it also threw a code. Went underneath to to check the starter cable.... I unfortunately caused an arc because the connection was loose and I'm fairly confident I made something go crispy critters in the starter. I only had one negative disconnected so I learned the hard way ; save the lecturing, all you can do is laugh. Went back to start again and now I'm at the "not engaging the flywheel" situation (truck also is NOT throwing any codes NOW). I guess I'm just curious as to what my next step should be. Is the starter more then likely toast? Anything else to check? Truck ran excellent when it was stored back in November so I can only assume I FUBAR'd the starter just now. Just want to get the truck running. Thanks fellas.

carid.com ...there was no tax but I did weasel my way into free shipping. Next best price I found was mudflaps.com (free shipping and no tax) for $80.02 http://mudflaps.com/i-7238998-volant-performance-61504-powercore-gas-air-filter.html They ship directly from Volant in Ohio.

Yep, that doesn't surprise me at all. Luckily I have to make several cuts on my new exhaust system so I'll have some 4" scraps laying around! . I must say that I'm very pleased with the quality of the filter itself. Volant scored big time on being able to work with Donaldson. I picked mine up for $76; they are $99.58 directly from Volant.

I just picked up the Volant 61504 myself! Did you by any change put anything inside the ending of the flange (on the filter) to avoid not getting a perfect seal when tightening down the clamp? I was thinking a PVC coupling or pipe cut to size. Seems as if the seal buckles in depending how tight/loose you make your clamp, maybe it's just me? If anyone reads this who runs the normal Donaldson/Fleetguard/Napa BHAF do you do something similar as I stated above to ensure the seal will not buckle and cause a leak?