sooxies

Lots of good info. Well worth the time.

Quite true...but there's never an issue finding a buyer

I can definitely attest to loose wiring causing wacky issues and they can be far apart from an interval perspective. Hope all is well.

This has been a known issue....I follow Bill religiously.

FTE sounds great with a 5/6 speed. I seem to have good control in regards to how loud you want it to be (accelerator pedal). Windows up all i hear is motor/road noise. Make sure to mount it right off of the downpipe. There were some good thoughts in this thread...

Yes get it done. My buddy just had it done on his 08 half ton

I painted my exhaust with that same stuff. Worked great! No rust at all going on three years.

3 gallons of Valvoline 5W-40 is $50.14 on Amazon. Cheapest I've ever seen it.

I buy oil and filters on Amazon only because I get free shipping and usually no tax. I keep an eye out at Walmart for engine oil if the price is better (sometimes is). It just all depends. Geno's is an excellent company to deal with.

I'd buy it @James merritt Here is a view from a different angle in regards to that area of the fuel system and also a link regarding replacement.

Go for it

That's pretty pricey. There's not much competition where I am either so it wasn't a situation where a single business can charge whatever they want.

My cost was $60-65 per wheel (can't remember exactly...that ballpark) for blasting and coating.

Yes. Factory 4th gen's but not 2nd.

Mine just started doing it since the temperature has been dropping. No issues for the past couple months with the heater disconnected.

I'm having the same issue. California truck...98.5. Grids disconnected and throwing the P1291.

I think he referenced Mechman alternators? Double check... https://www.mechman.com/alternators/dodge/full-size-truck/5-9l-diesel/1988-2002/ Contemplating on investing in one. Keyword "invest". Only have done minor researching but I have yet to find a bad review on them.

I have the same darn problem. Just annoying. Slip yoke and/or bushing in the output shaft I'm betting on. Vent checked out fine.

I like watching this gentleman's videos from time to time. ...and Cummins interestingly states in their FSM for the ISB:

I've also load tested both of my batteries and they still show 98% even being 5 years old. I religiously keep them on a float charger if I knowingly am not going to drive the vehicle (vacation, etc.)

Grid heaters have been unhooked to preserve diodes and @BBHD no codes with cluster test...sorry fellas forgot to mention that. Knew I forgot something in my original post.

So what else, specifically, in an alternator can cause excessive AC noise. I just replaced the diodes and brushes in my original and I'm getting the same exact reading as I was with a new replacement? Literally, the exact same reading on my Fluke 87. Cold engine, everything off, .068 at startup (clearly too high), and then it slowly works it's way down. New alternator was a cheap unit which I returned immediately after doing a noise test then decided to do a rebuild of my own. The only real issue I am having is I notice the tachometer is not moving in a fluid motion. Speed/RPM dependent? I really might make a video of this issue because it's quite interesting. Revving the engine in neutral it appears to be fine. Accelerating in first/second gear it seems to move normally. Getting into third, and cruising gears, it's obvious that it looks like a ticking motion. Not like a wall clock, but you can tell it's not as smooth as it should be. When using cruise control at freeway speeds it's the most obvious because you can rest your foot on the pedal and feel it adjusting up/down constantly (matching with the tach). I would assume the cluster is fine if it's only doing it under certain circumstances. I've sometimes noticed, at idle, the tach bounces ever so slightly as well. I did recheck my valve lash to rule out an issue there. I read that some members had funky issues with valves not being adjusted properly. Still to do: 1) Ground Wire Mod 2) Pull 140A fuse and disconnect alternator for a test drive to see if issue goes away

Most certainly. Thank You! I found it interesting that mine burned up right at the beginning of summer. Also this vehicle lived in California (Los Angeles suburb) all of it's life prior to my ownership. One wouldn't think the grid heaters were used very often. It does have a block heater too...oddly enough.

Finally got around to disassembling my old alternator. I believe this is the factory original one. Unfortunately I stripped out 2 of the 4 screw heads holding the diodes in! Any tips for stripped screws? Anyways, @Mopar1973Man The diodes you sell...do they fit in all Denso alternators found on 94-02 trucks? I have a 98.5, which from the looks of it, is the same as a 12 valve alternator. It doesn't have that plug on the back (see photo from FSM).

I just installed my 4G. I know they are quieter compared to the non-4G units but there are also internal differences from what I understood.