Dieselpwrram

I broke the plastic latch on my rear sliding window. I bought one of those plastic replacement kits from the auto supply store. It lasted about three weeks. So I went to Home Depot and bought a metal latch use for windows used in the home. They come in different types and sizes. I selected the small black metal latch type (see photo). As you see it fits the sliding truck window frame just fine. Even used a couple of Original drill holes for mounting. Where the part of the latch cups you have to bend it just a bit to catch the locking half. This fix works great and easy to use.

Thanks for your reply. I replaced the plug once last year and put a non harding sealer around the edge. It still had some seepage then. I'll install it this time without sealer like you suggested.What did you use to install your plug? I made a jig to pound the plug into block without going to far. My first try I knocked the plug into the water jacket and had to use a magnet to retrieve it.

I see I'm going to have to replace an expansion plug in my CTD. I have a some leakage coming from one of my plugs and don't wan't to revisit the problem again when I install a new one. What type of Permatex or sealer is best for this repair?

I did my clutch last year. Unless your flywheel is in bad shape you might want to have a good machine shop turn it. This worked for me and saved me some money.

Thanks for your info. No, I replaced the relay with a new 70 amp. unit from Freightliner. The starter may have hung up when I bumped the starter. The bump may have been enough to fry may solenoid. My starter other wise has no symptoms of worn solenoid contacts or problems. I used the shorted solenoid as a base in my conversion to a manual cable setup. Now I won't have to be bothered with relays and all that to start and stop the engine. I kind of like the manual setup and low cost of repair.I live S/W of Cleveland. Not very many CTD in my area.

I've had real good luck with the Walmart batteries. I bought two new ones when I lived in Arizona. I had to replace them after three years in Ohio. They were exchange under warranty no questions asked. Just have you paperwork.

I accidentally broke a vacuum line loose on the wheel well when changing the fuel filter. It caused my ABS and check engine light to come on. I also lost cruise control. I made sure all the vacuum connections were tight and my problem was corrected.

Every once in a while my truck would do the same thing. I would would just drive it and it would smooth out and run fine. I suspect in my case anyway might be the fuel. Every now and then I put injector treatment into the tank. I has been a while since I've had that issue again. Other than that nothing else was touched or adjusted.

I found that using an appliance timer works great with my engine block heater. I set the on and off time to my usage. I keeps the engine warm without it being on all the time. I think a regular light timer would be a little to light duty.

If you use a chemical greaser you might want to dilute some. A full strength greaser will discolor the finish on aluminum and some other metals.

I've been using Wally World oil and a NAPA gold filter. There are some oil filters which will not hold up the the oil psi put out by engine. they could burst and cause real problems. I use a strap wrench to remove and tighten the filter.

I've been using Wally World oil and the NAPA gold high micron oil filter. I also use strap wrench to snug the filter tight. One time it had been hand tightened and vibrated loose. What a mess.

I bought my Tom Tom GPS last year. I'm really happy with the unit. I found it very easy to operate and update via my computer. I used the open cubby hole next to the cup holder to mount the base of my GPS to. I dumped the suction cup setup and used a screw through the base a plastic plate fitted to fit the cubby hole.

I was surprised when I replaced my water pump. The OEM pump was made in England. The replacement pump from AutoZone and was manufactured in Canton , Ohio. I thought for sure it was going to be an import. The replacement also has a limited life time warranty. kind of nice that some parts are still made in the USA.

Great info. The video was a nice add to your write up. I had a heck of a time to locating TDC using the push pin. Last time I accidentally pulled the dam thing out of its bore. The other fear I had was breaking the plastic pin feeling for the drop hole.

Great write up and photography! I'm going to be due to change mine again.

At one time I thought about putting marking lights on the roof. There are many third party vendors. I noticed that some are using LED s rather than the traditional bulb. I do remember someone posting a write up with a printable template for the roof marking lights. I don't recall the site but try a Google of forum search.

When I bought my truck I went to AAA customer service center. They made me an emergency key at no cost as a member. This is one of those plastic credit card type. On my 95 there is only one key that works the door and ignition. Not sure the still provide that service.

I had the Rancho shocks on my truck and just didn't like the ride they gave. I replaced them with the Monroe Sensatrac shocks (37104 & 37105) all around. I'm really happy with them, great ride. Sensatrac shocks also have a limited lifetime warranty. I replaced them twice on my truck. Monroe customer service was great. In my situation I purchased the shocks in Arizona but now live in Ohio. Because I couldn't return them to the shop where purchased they shipped the to the house at no charge.

Looking on the door of my Dodge you really have two seals. The main seal around the door and a seal that runs above it at the roof gutter line which runs all the way to the hood for water run off. I would suspect it also helps with wind noise.

There was a Dodge recall for the 2nd gen. trucks for just that issue. I believe the fix was placing plugs in the holes in the back of the steering wheel. I only have a couple of keys on my ignition ring which also helps to prevent that problem. I read somewhere if you have a lot of keys dangling from the ignition it tends to loosen the ignition switch.

I'm surprised your starter didn't fry your fuel solenoid. I've changed my contacts once. It was an easy fix. The hardest part for me was getting to the bolts on the starter. A ratcheting 10mm made the work easier.

My fuel shut down solenoid had a failure. At first the solenoid would hold but not pull up the plunger. I maually had to push the plunger up to in order to start. I replaced the relay and fuse link at the battery. I tuned the engine over and the pig tail of the solenoid caught fire. Lucky fire didn't spead beyond the wiring and plastic cover at the solenoid. I decided to switch over to a manual cable cable setup vs OEM electric. Works great, see my write up on this conversion in this forum.

My fuel shutdown/start cable setup. The photos show where I used the old solenoid to actuate the fuel shut off and location or the cable control into the cab. The setup is pretty straight forward. I left the spring inside the boot. This will allow the fuel lever to snap shut when the cable handle is released.

I made the replacement relay for the fuel solenoid look OEM. I gutted the OEM relay housing. Just plug in the new replacement. The base of the old relay socket will hold the replacement 70 Amp relay in the gutted housing. Future relay replacement will be a snap.