Towrigdually

You’d be correct, needed bigger headers To keep up with air flow. got tired The in frame ones, held a lot of heat under the hood and the drivers side was always a mess.

I don’t have a picture of my truck, away from it for awhile. But I have the industrial valve cover painted red, the Cummins logo shined, and then clear coated. I’d like to paint the intake horn, alt. Braket, and shine up the compressor wheel. And I’d be happy. for now he’s a dirty engine bay, and full of things not to have!

Id take the fan pully and place it where the bolt bolts where, weld in place. It’s a 36mm wrench for the clutch, and use either a big pipe wrench, or a strap wrench to hold the pulley in place. if you take off the fan mounting bracket bolts you can shave down a wrench and get to the one behind the pulley I believe, then just work it off a little bit while pulling the hub off so you have room.

I should have done that also, but at the time I was trying to get the truck into pulling, but things happen. I have Yukon lockers in the Rockwell axles under the mud truck and those will pull whatever they want if you don’t aim it early, especially on tractor tires.

So running a full locker front and rear myself. I would highly suggest putting a free spin kit on the front if you go with a mechanical locker. Looking back I should have put in a air locker in the front.

I’ve seen a few people make AN mines and put a Y fitting to use the single factory drain. Haven’t seen anything bad on it.

It seemed thinner like a synthetic when I put it in. was thinking about that also before I bought it how I couldn’t find that anywhere on it or reading about it online.

I know most people run pennzoil, amsoil, or redline. I’ve ran royal purple for the past few years but I decided to give the valvoline brand a shot. The part numbers for mopar are on the bottle. Been driving for 8k so far and been good with daily driving and towing, trans temp seems be run the same as royal purple. Shifts smooth. Don’t know how it compares in the cold yet, but I don’t think it’ll be a problem.

Just replaced mine on Friday night, I had brakes getting softer and steering was only really useful if you had it off idle. Got tired of touching the throttle to turn into a parking lot or backing a trailer. the pump reseal kit was cheap, only $18 at Cummins, came with instructions of how to Rebuild the vacuum pump apart. For the pump I found Napa was the cheapest, even with the core price. Which got returned the next morning. Used the Walmart super tech fluid. about 2 hrs of my life and steering can be done by my finger at idle, and brakes are strong again.

I have no idea other than roller than dash back again and looking it over. maybe the one that controls the recirc door, It’s green if I remember right. Could be wrong.

So a common failure is the small plastic piece between the blend door and door motor, look up heater treater. It’s a piece of steel that replaces it, simple to change. if that’s not it, I’d try a new ac/heat control panel. It’s cheaper and easier to get than a new blend door motor. or if you done any under the hood work or behind the dash stuff recently, check the vacuum lines. https://heatertreater.net/dodge-ram-95-02

Could be the power steering pump going out, this past winter it started wining when it was cold and it would make the brakes feel weird till it was warm. Replaced pump and all is good now. I thought mine was the hydroboost at first because of the weird brakes, even replaced it but still remained.

honestly, the price. Plus I heard and read good things about them. I’ve had zero issues with it after 5ish yrs.

I gotta do that float change one of days, under 1/2 tank it’s a guessing game..

For head work I’d say find a shop that does heavy Diesel engines, I had to do that when I replaced the head gasket on mine. Was cheaper, and I feel they did a better job. Got lucky and the head was in good shape. As for block cleaning, I used a surfacing stone, basically a knife sharpening stone, Used pb blaster for oil and brake clean to clean it off often. the tappet cover on the drivers side is easy to replace with the head off, it takes longer to clean the cover and the gasket area that to remove and install. for a manifold, I’m happy with my DPS 3 piece, Using stock bolts. if you do end up doing it yourself, I really enjoyed using the engine cherry picker to r&r the head.

Not in these trucks, my old 84 Chevy, used the clear gorilla glue you can get a Walmart. Still holding since 2011ish?

Thankfully work is steady and just got the bike road ready again (finished a way overdue cam swap) so that’ll help the wallet some. covid is just annoying at this point. But next time, adrenaline or bust, because I’d like to play with more air and fuel sooner than later.

I tried the cheaper resettable breakers Like mentioned, hated both. Bought an Eaton hi-amp marine breaker (150 amp) for around $70 and still have yet to have it trip. The only 2 times it has tripped is when I did it just to make sure the truck sensed it. eaton part #82150

Ended up getting the xzt again, close on a house next week and just couldn’t bring myself to spend the extra on the adrenaline.

New tuner installed after loading tune, it’s nice to have power down low again. 50 mile trip and no issues.

CEL went off after hooking the truck back up without XZT. Cleared the codes once i got into the truck under generic codes. but looks like I need a new tuner so next weekend I’ll see who’s having sales. I emailed quadzilla support yesterday to see if they’ll repair the board in what I have first.

I’ve never used ducky products but I’ve heard good things. I’d go with the 75 hp controlled fuel droppers, and always new. Tried a set of remans once and 3 ended up bad out of the box.

Those look like the right pins, I pulled a connector I had apart off another ecm and they look the same from what I can tell.

Went to the store, light came back on. On the way home the truck didn’t want to build more than 10lbs of boost or go over 2k rpm, and was painfully slow to get there. 1st/2nd gear starting was no problem but trying to gain speed was stupid, drove home in 4th. unhooked the XZT and ran it around. CEL is still on but can build boost, egts are slightly lower, and can run the truck through the gears no problem with being rpm limited. hooked up scanner to clear codes and now it won’t connect to the truck. I can read the abs codes, but cant get Into the ecm to clear codes or read them. Scanner is a snappy solus pro, verified it working with the Jeep I have sitting at the house and uses the same personality key, k-13. gunna unplug the batteries again and see if that’ll clear the code. *update* I can connect to the truck specifically to clear the ecm codes, but if I enter it globally I can read and clear it. Strange.

About an hour from hole last nights the check engine light went out after I drove through a bumpy construction zone. So that makes me think is a connection problem. The pins in the xzt looks good, and the sensor. The wiring from the sensor to the ecm looks good so maybe it’s a pin on the ecm connector or the wire itself. Does anyone know where to get the pins? The wire is easy, but are the pins Cummins specific or if it fits it’s good.