Towrigdually

The connection looks decent here, cleaned it up and put dielectric grease on it. No change Unplugged the batteries and it went away for a bit. Came back. I’ll have to check the wiring when I get home. Pretty sure my scanner can do what the dtc instructions are asking so I can read voltage.

It’s the 2nd time this month the check engine light has come on for this code. I replaced it 2 weeks ago with a new one from Cummins in el paso because I’ve been traveling, this morning the light came on again. i thought something looked off getting on the highway today when I saw on gray smoke and a little black from the exhaust. is there something that is the culprit usually other than a sensor? I’ll be home late tonight or tommorow, but if I can fix it on the road that would be cool to.

I’m just a few behind at 379k. I’ll catch up more now that it’s a daily again since the 318 is done for in the 1500.

I also vote @dieselautopower for parts. for body/interior it’s usually between genos garage or LMC truck.

Looks like the brand new Bosch injector I had to buy a few yrs ago in a pinch when I had one fail on me at lake havasu. I think that one was laser engraved also.

Sounds just as clapped out as mine then, but doesn’t bother me much. If I used a plow maybe

If they are slow that’s fine, it’s just the way shocks work. After multiple rapids bumps they start to act like a steering stabilizer until the fluid and nitrogen return to the respective sides. as for checking in worn springs, I always went by if I can sit on the bumper and the truck sinks they are worn. Or if I can sit in the truck and rock side to side in my seat and the front of the truck tends to rock with me then they are likely shot, seeing as I only weigh 178lbs

I’d say it’s from driving and just worn out. While you have it torn down just make sure you can put a pick through the spot the hose goes and it’s clear of Debris. as for the water, probably just from rain and being in a high moisture environment even when it’s not. It still shouldn’t have happened though, sounds like the seal on one of the cups is bad.

My thought on the 5100’s is that if they are stiffer and bounce back faster, then when you hit a bump on the right side it’ll rebound quick and cause the left to have to rebound also because the rebound from the right cause some push on the left. but you could be right also with the springs being worn out, I know mine are at 378k. Another thing to look at if the sway bar links are good, what about the sway bar bushings, Are they old and worn or newer? could be completely off my rocker on this train of thought, just ideas that I have on night shift.

I’d count that problem as a win! Cheap and easy fix. I still gotta tow in 5th with 3.55 gears pulling my gooseneck when it’s loaded, roughly 14-18k depending on the day. Egts and water temp creep up. Trans seem ok though when I do it. But I hear ya on the 60mph. Did it from key west, fl to oak harbor, wa. sucked 3 yrs ago when I did that move.

I might call DAP tommorow then, I need to order a few other things from those guys anyways. Get it all done it one shot.

I thought about buying the kit, but since I’ll already have the line I figured I’d try to piece together just the 2 fittings I need for the filter housing. But buying that kit or one like it is what I might have to do.

Needed new hose for the fass due to the rubber cracking. Right now I have it plumbed into the vp without an issue. For those who’ve added the factory filter into the route, what size fittings did you need to do that, Both in and out of the filter housing. I’ll be using pushloc fittings with this also. I’d like to add it in to get the WIF light, because why not have it.

Well that’s fun. Guess it’s just gunna go to the shop for both R&R. Let them deal with that mess.

Solid point.

I would take out a good size Loan to buy them at that price.

I was considering that. Depends on my temper aft I take the window out. Most likely will

I’ll give that a shot then when the new seal gets here. Hopefully the rope trick to on the install. If not, found a shop near me that’ll put it in for $45 if I bring the seal and glass.

Got that email myself the other day, had a set of 3 and 6 tons in the garage. Turned them in for store credit on a gift card and saved the 20% off coupon. Mostly turned them in because they where pretty well used after 7 yrs of use and why not upgrade. went and bought the strong way brand ones from northern tool, save a few bucks if ya buy online if you can travel to a store if they are near you. id like to buy American made but from what I can find the only floor jacks and jack stands are made by hein-werner (I think I spelled it right) but that’s a bit more than I wanna spend

Atleast I know one way! And that’s what I’m trying to prevent, breaking it. The only glass I’ve ever dealt with was out of a 84 Chevy k20 so that’s all the experience I have in the glass department.

Pretty sure I’ve narrowed it down to the window seal leaking and thats how water is getting in the cab. On the back seat and window. But only when it rains hard. ive resealed the 3rd brake light and cab lights with silicone, new door seals, window seals, windshield seal, cab seals, and quad cab door seals. has anyone removed the window? I found a seal online but have no idea how to remove and replace.

I did the same thing when I upgraded last week from manual mirrors. I didn’t realize I pinched the wires till I heard a pop from the fuse panel and blew the IOD fuse. but power and heat will be nice to have instead of leaning over to adjust the passenger when needed.

Seems like ya got most of the headache items, but it’s not like you can carry the garage with ya either in the event of a break down which sucks, I know. Usually on long trips I just throw a 2.5 gal jug of oil in the truck tool box and new filter, fuel filters, and a jug of water for either me or the truck. (Usually ends up being me) plus usually have my junkyard adventure tool box filled so basic hand tools, zip ties, and mechanics wire. Oh and I throw in the axle shaft seal install tool because those seem to go out if I drive for more than 20hrs straight, Always the passenger side. Also carry a plug in case the fp gauge or line starts to leak I can plug it at the T fitting. the only other thing I’d say is if you have custom or aftermarket stuff is pack a spare. like you said you have a fuel pump belt, then throw a spare 150amp breaker under the back seat, I have one also.

If you run oversize tires it’s great, or if you off-road a lot and have the tires biting everything they can get, it’s nice to have. I have the cheapest eBay special on my 1500 and 3500. Originally only ment for my 1500, cause I cracked part of the frame horn by the box, and welded it up then spread the load with the brace, no issues since. The 3500 got one, just because the eBay seller messed up and sent 2. So win win.

Me personally I’d go with the cheaper option, pulling the front cover. The seal and silicone is cheaper than an oil change. plus you can get a magnetic stick in there and try to find it in the front portion of the pan, might even be sitting on the gears!