dripley

I tried the ceramic just to try something different and they were not expensive at all. They did not stop any better or worse than what regular. 0 brake dust however. That was a plus. The old rotors I have are not oe ones. They are long gone. The reason I swapped rotors last time is lack of time to resurface them. Only being home on the weekends does not always a lot time to do things. I have thought going with the 3rd or 4th gen stuff. Maybe after I retire.

Most likely they case. The ceramic pads probably did not help. I dont believe its on the surface, to much bare metal showing. That blue tint you are seeing is the reflection of the blue shirt I have on. I dont remember noticing any blue scorching when looking at them at the tire store. Not to say the damage is not heat related. Sure looks to be. We will see what happens after I get the others re surface.

Maybe. They came as package deal from Rock auto. Pretty cheap at around 100 bucks IIRC. The pads are about 50%. Might get my old rotors resurfaced and try them. The cracking cant be good. I dont seeing that when I bought new tires about 3 months ago.

It does look heat related, but dont believe the brakes are dragging. Drives straight and stops straight. The rotors went on the same time the pads did, maybe 3 years ago. Never been resurfaced. The pads are ceramic. First time I ever ran them.

Just the gravy he poured on it.

I wondered the same when put 2 on mine, but I never had any trouble out of it for 3 years I ran it like that. Just wanted the pump out of the tank.

I have no loyalty on t stats. I just put what ever is available.

My experience with Dodge in tank was very poor. Very low pressure after a years use, about 25k miles. I did mount a booster pump on the frame and ran the two for 3 or 4 years before replacing it all with an Air dog. Even though dropping tank is not a major ordeal, I did not relish the idea of having to do that any time I might have a pump problem.

What ya been feeding that thing, cream of wheat?

Getting rotation today and as I take look at the brakes while all the wheels are off and see something strange. Right front. Left front. There appears to be cracking and you can feel it with your finger nail. Never had this before. Seems there cracking. Any one had this happen on theirs?

My ISSPRO mechanical gauge was in the $50 range.

I dont know about the tranny issues but the bolt for the ground mod goes into the timing case and not the VP. And yes there have a few cases where the bolt size is different.

They put the stuff in a fryer, turn it on and boil it.

That is a lot for package in a 6X6 inch box that weighs a pound.

Good catch my friend. O ring would be correct. Though I am working on an auto eject tube.

That's one of the main reasons I quit using it very often. It is a dust magnet.

If you hook it back up just remove the line and fitting from the VP and install into the filter canister. You will need to shorten the fuel and might need a push lock coupling maybe. I can't remember how the quick disconnects are attatched to the fuel line. Eric has those too.

Leaky return line from the VP and back of the head, bad springs on the cross over tubes. Basically anything on the fuel system that can let air in will cause hard starting. Some of those leaks want be visible.

Its Pirate something for sure. I to did not remove the rod even though I had some spotting on the floor mat. The case seal stopped all my leaking. As I remember I only used 2 or 3 seals out of the kit. You can replace the blue cylinder. It did not appear difficult to do. I dont know that you can get it refilled. Mine is a bit weak and I wish I would have done it.

Armor all when I have done it. Just wiped it on. Replaced the bezel 6 or 7 month's ago and the dash several years back. I let a laborer wash my truck many years back and gave him a bottle of AA. Went back a bit later and he used almost the whole bottle. It looked very nice but the steering wheel was slicker than snot.

Definitely soft. No hard water issues in the thirty years I have lived there. Hard water would have worked.

Dont know of good intank pump. They did not come factory with them. I had one from dodge but that was there after market solution for the crappy oe pump. Where are from? Temps in your area? Your mileage does seem to off. I tun a Comp also and get 19 to 20 on the highway and 14 around town.

From the looks of the pictures the oe filter is bypassed. Looks like the lines just disconnected and left in place. Take the 2 bolts loose at the manifold and see if it lifts out. Watch out for the electrical connections. As mentioned before follow the fuel line from the VP. If it does not go straight to the filter canister, it is by passed.

The cruise control would make difference I would think, the late 01's and 02"s are fly by wire and not mechanical like the earlier years. Seems some folks have issues while others dont.

476k on well water and mine is clean also. Not knocking distilled water though.