dripley

The early 02's have the CAD and late 02's dont. Makes no difference for the drive shaft removal.

You could just pull the drive if it needs repairs and drive minus the shaft and see what happens.

Matter of fact thats what I did the last time. With idling I have been doing in this heat the 1200 miles a quart shrinks to 700 or 800.

About a quart every 1200 miles here. I am jealous.

It could though it is under no load and does not spin much while 2wd. Carrier bearing maybe also. It should be reasonbly tight.

My OE had about 370k on it.

The front should be easy to remove. @Mopar1973Man has an article about removal and rebuild. One end is bolted but dont remember the other.

If it makes you feel any better I had the rear main seal replaced at my last clutch install 110k miles ago. Was not leaking but but was OE. The new one starts leaking 10k later.

Its a clutchy selfy, my oh my.

That copper alloy tube is supposed to be for the double flares from what I have read about. But again i have not used any. The kit on RA is supposed flared wit fittings and ready to go, it just comes coil up. But again I have seen the kit to know how good it is.

Well gentlemen I might be mistaken. I cant find it on RA either. I was looking at a LMC truck catalog this weekend also and maybe I got it mixed up. RA does have flexible nickle copper lines advertised under hydraulic lines. Heard good things about the procuct but no personal experience. My apologies for the mix up.

Is your number BR 549?

Rock auto does have line sets, looked at them the other day. Seems all there sets had the load adjuster under the bed figured in. Mine does not have one. I do know that mine does not have the flexible portion in it. I wish I could help but it is hard to tell from there picture if it is right for your application.

Slow and deliberate my freind.

Beautiful scenery. I especially like the funeral service/garage/convenience store combo. The train station looks like something you would see 50 years ago.

That's the recomendation.

Sounds good Mike. Hope it works out well.

Just saw an article where Jeep found the death wobble problem. Weak steering dampner. I aint buying it.

Never seen any rust in mine, of course I have not opened mine up in 8 or nine years since I installed my AD. It was very clean back then. I used the basket the in tank pump was in. The AD came with a kit to convert it. The pick up and returns all go to the basket. Then thru a course filter/water seperator then thru the pump and thru the finer filter, 5 micron I believe. Indefinitely would not throw it away no matter what you do. Pretty sure you can change out the sending unit on the basket and not have buy the whole thing. I could be wrong it has been a while since I have seen it.

Same down here. Cant sit on the lawn mower more than 10 minutes without being able to not see from the sweat pouring into my eyes. Last winter was soaking wet, dont want that again either. On a more qauasi scientific note, the feathers are getting roasted, hence the color change.

Same here. I never saw the oe one which was removed after 6 years. The in tank pump screen was mostly clean when I removed it about 4 years later. The screen on mine was attached to the pump and not the basket.

Bare in mind that I dont what these clips look like, would the clips that hold some of the wiring looms to studs on the engine work? They are metal wit insulators to protect what they hold.

That was not cheap back in 2000.

Dont, piss off, the chicken.

I thought I did until I found the problem to be in the 5v where I had to splice it many years ago. I fought the same issue for several weeks. My exhaust brake connects to the ECT sensor. I hunch I took it loose and it stopped. Figuring something in that wiring harness is bad.