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dripley

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Everything posted by dripley

  1. A leaky full line will do it too. The first time is was the return line tee that the VP and head return lines join behind the fuel filter canister. The second time was a bad cross over tube o ring. The odd thing with yours is it should be harder to start after sitting over night. Are you parked nose down over night? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? The WTS light is an ECM issue. You could send it in and have it tested. One day the light may not come on at all. When, who knows. And as @Evan mentions a weak electrical system can cause this also.
  2. The WTS light should come on at key on. When its warm it is only on briefly, easy to miss if you are not looking for it. The little fuel burst is normal and should happen at key on. I am really surprised your truck starts with the light delayed or not working. That might be a first here.
  3. As far as the fuel gauge reading mine reversed with the in tank pump intall. Stock my gauge would read at the E mark and i had near 125 miles untill I was empty. After the in tank pump install it would take a 125 miles untill the needle moves. By the time zI see a half tank it is really only a third tank left. Just had to get used to it. Either way matter fact. Had to learn the OE reading when I bought the truck. No big deal.
  4. They are listed in the vendors section.
  5. You need to put a scanner on it and check for codes. Sounds like maybe either the crank or cam sensor is going south on you. I do not remeber whether your 2000 has both or just the cam sensor as my 02. If the ECM is not getting a signal it will not let the engine start. You need to scan it to see whats happening.
  6. I bought 2 Cummins cross over tubes for 23 bucks each, back in 08 that is.
  7. Hit the quote button below the post,
  8. Tired of people trying to tell me what to do, then my electronics are doing the same thing.
  9. I think the key word there is "original". Not sure they exist anymore, especially the 01 and 02. The OE were sealed and evidently more robust than todays even from Spicer. I purchased the MOOG and it seemed like the next day I started to hear bad things about them. I felt much better about them when they surpassed 50k.
  10. Someone else had some wierd issue that was caused by his grid heater relays. @Evan I believe.
  11. They got the best of me this weekend, but next weekend they are mine. I know where the nest is. I stepped on it while trmming the hedge. I will stop by the armory and be prepared for the battle. Nuke em!!
  12. Others will be along. Kind of slow on the weekends sometimes. It is probably not your sensor but that o e is cheap enough to try. I have a couple spares. And unless you have some mods that would require a boost fooler you do to spend the money on one, just find the problem. Could be the sensor, but they a re pricey just to throw at the problem. The same could be said for the boost fooler. Tell us more about your truck. You can go to your profile and add a signature that will show up on every post like the one on mine.
  13. My 4" has a flowm thru muffler, Banks, but still puts out a nice sound. Not straight pipe mind you, but nice to the ear. Been thinking about a FTE resonator and taking the muffler out but we shall see. I hear it puts out a good sound. I also never had any issues with egt's on the 4". And thats pulling a 15k 5th wheel. Even in the Blue Ridge here.
  14. How did they pull up high voltage to the ect and map over boost with no dtc detected? Both of those are dtc's and should display a code #. I have been dealing with a high volt code on mine for the past 2 weeks. 118 ECT high volt. Have not had time to work on it but the other day I got wild hair and disconnected my exaust brake connection to the ECT and the problem is gone. I have problem in the e brake wiring. That being said the problem could be deeper but that easy to fix. Others smarter than me will be along to help. But it cant hurt to pull the cluster and clean the connections. Could be ground issue also. Just not sure where to start on that.
  15. Catching up on yard work today and trimming hedges. Trimming the 2 on the end of the house as I do every year. On the secod one I am going at it and noice a burning sensation my hand and kept going. Then I felt in my shoe. Look at my hand there the sob is pumping venom. I look further and see one on my leg and 4 on shorts stinging the crap out them. I beat a hasty retreat, think I got them off and goin the house. While standing at the kitchen sink I spot 2 more on clothes and pull my shoe off and 2 fly out. So I spend the next 10 minutes hunting yellow jackets and dispatching them. The whole time the wife never woke up from her nap. That was good for me because I cant imagine the chaos that would have erupted with her knowinng I brought a gang of pissed of yellow jackets in the house. Fortunate for me also is I learned about 3 months that soapy water will kill them. About 25% dawn and 75% water, kills spiders, ants and weeds too. And it is safe to use on humans.
  16. I will take stab at it. I think the 900 codes are all instrument cluster codes but not sure. If so your cluster maybe bad or you justmight need to pull it and clean up the contacts on the two connectors. It is easy to pull the bezel and the cluster to get at them.
  17. My opinions. 1. My AD has i believe the blue Parker fuel hose. I have seen cracking in mine also. Its just on surface but still cocerns me. I am hoping Eric at Vulcan performance has a kit made up to replace the lines with in total. Thats on my to do list. 2. I cant advise on the TC. 3. Mechanical or electric?? Folks swear by both. I have lost 2 pumps on the AD in the past 9 years, both under warranty. My new one is a 4g so hopefully it will last longer than me. Many members here run the Fuel Boss and love them. You might check with FASS and see if you can just swap the pump head to the Titanium. 4. Can't advise on the one piece. I plan to stick with the 2 piece. It has served me well for 478k miles and all original. I did find some new old stock u joints to replace them with one day. No luck on the carrier bearing. 5. Ball joints, now that will spark a conversation there. @Me78569 bought the Spicers and had piss poor results. Worn out in 20k or so I believe. I swapped out the OE at 240k with Moog and 240k later they are still holding up. They seemed to have gotten a bad after Federal Mogul bought them out about the time I bought mine. I did have to replace the track bar with around 140k on it with the same Mogg part and it now has about 100k on it and is still tight. All that being said I still might go Moog if I have to replace again, but dont know for sure. Others will have more opinions on that. 6. Exhaust. A 4" is more than enough unless you plan on big HP, much more than you will see even with the quad. I put a 4" on mine backin 06 and never noticed much difference with it from stock 3". Sounds good too with out a ton noise. Good luck with your change in life and may it bring what you and your family seek. Dave
  18. Swapped my 6 speec out many years. Had 2 grandsons znd brother help. For some reason we could not get the tranny move the last 1/2" to mate to the motor. We wiggled it, rubbed it, talked nice to it snd cussed it. Out of the blue my wife, all 4'9" of her and her # 4 shoes appears under the and kicks the tranny in the output shaft and bam its mated.
  19. The air btake hose is petroleum safe. @Mopar1973Man has always told me that he gets at napa. I have asked every napa around me for it and they dont know what it is. Then a few weeks ago I go into a Napa and ask for vacuum tubing and the guy takes into the back where the vacuum tubing is and they have rolls of it. Their shelf is labeled vacuum tube in magic marker. Printed on the tubing "air brake line".
  20. Now what fun would that be?
  21. If youngomtomthe articles section under 2nd gen 24v, obd error codes you will the diagnostics for the 222 code. Also if you the oe tps sensor that could be the culprit. A timbo apps is a much tps sensor. But I would check out the code diagnostics before just throwing the part at it.