dripley

Mine is on the 90 at the VP but you could add another tapped tee in the big line for a test port. And yes the bigline kit is bit in the of the power steering but I still dont have any trouble removing the power steering cap but you will need a long narrow funnel for adding fluid.

Nor comfortable.

Amen to that brother!. Its amazing what a little laughter will do for you in times of adversity. Seems alot of folks have lost the ability to laugh at ones self in the middle of a moment. Life is short and laughfter is free, just use it.

Ouch!!

Kaperneck

I chose the 1/2" over the 3?8 because it cost the same and figured why not. Unless you are going for big power the smaller will do the job. The air brake line is very easy to route though the nylon line I used is still holding up fine. I have some to replace the nylon with but for now again I am happy with the nylon.

I stopped at the same place this morning and ordered 2 eggs over easy with bacon toast and grits. everything was good but the owner dont know how to cook over easy eggs. Mine were done, done. Then I forgot to ask for a coffee cup.

I like to think if brother Neil had had his better half with him, that he might not have made that first step properly. Also the lunar module would have been to heavy to lift off. No offense meant Mr. Armstrong.

I have run my mechanical gauge for 8 years with nothing but a needle valve protecting it from the hammer effect. I am not that a snubber is not a good idea, I just never put one in. As below in the big line kit. I never had to tap into a factory wiring harnes for the lights, just the fuse box like @Irie808 mentions. Though I took it loose I dont remeber what I tapped into and now my gauge lights are on at key on. Going to look into that again one day but for now I dont really worry about it. Of course this mechanical versus electrical so it might not mean anything.

That was good thing getting the grounds, charge wire and signal out of the same wiring harness. That really cut my AC ripple down alot. I went from .035 to .010 just with the mod on a 6 year old AZ alternator.

I really wanted to laugh and like this one. The last statement is very true and I have experienced that. Most of cheap parts I have used are the readily accessable ones and easy to swap, but not always. Put a Dorman rack and pinion in the wifes 06 Dakota with my fingers crossed. She then drove over a gaurd rail and down a mountainside in the Blue Ridge. So we will never know about that decision. She is lucky to be alive. When i did my head gasket i looked at a couple other brands on the gasket set just for economics but just couldn't do it. Still found a Cummins gasket set for right a $200 and the rockers assemblies were used Cummins parts and looked much better than what was in there. I did it that way for peace of mind. The other brands were not that much cheaper anyway. The original gasket held up for 450k so hopefully the replacement will more than outlast me. Did not want to skimp on that one. I too have less time and a good income but took in the shorts on great recession, worked my way out that one and walked into a nasty custody with my daughter that cost way to much money and now working out of that one. Sometimes the bullshit never ends.

Part of that ground mod was to relocate the ECM and VP ground from the passanger battery. Thats the ground @pepsi71ocean is speaking of.

I buy mostly after market and have had pretty good success. Got two brake rotors to replace that were bought cheap, aftermarket, but lost on that deal. But I still think I came out ahead for the most part over the years using aftermarket. I like new old stock if you can find it. But you might be snookered there too. I found 3 u joints for the drive shaft that way. They do appear as original replacement parts. Now all the original ones need to wear out. Still going to pull them one day and rebuild it just see inside the OE ones. Sealed and still going strong. I would like to find a set of new old ball joints, that would make the chicken man happy. Replaced the OE with MOOG about 237k ago and they are still holding up and about to surpass the OE ones. Now I am just rambling. I think you ought to buy whatever makes you happy and be prepared for some failures and hopefully many successes. OE or aftermarket, we get to make the choice and live with the results.

I believe @Dynamic means is strengthens the case during normal operation and not from impacts with rocks or whatever.

It is possible it is the ECM. Just hate see you spend money on another ECM and it be something else. Thems pricey parts your swapping. Of course you can send your ECM in and have it tested. The hotwire test is good one to rule out the VP.

I got him about 2 years ago. Will see 500k about March of next year. I'll save both of you a seat at the bar when you get back from the moon.

I garauntee I am not 160 each way everyday. It's a holiday. The only driving I would do is to eat some those fish n chips you speak so highly of or to see some sites. At $8.5 a gallon I aint driving more than necessary. Enjoy the trip.

Could be a bad VP out of the box. It does happen. Who did you get the VP from? Have done the diagnostics for the 1689 code? You could hot wire the pump to be sure. There is an article here on doing that and Blue chip diesel has a good trouble shooting guide for the VP. I cant link them on my tablet.

One thing I have for sure learned here is there are differing opinions on some things. And yes down to even a t stat. No one is definitely wrong just differing opinions. I have run both the Cummins and the aftermarket with good results. How much money you spend is up to you.

I put one on from AZ or AA 7 or 8 years ago and it has held fine. I do not remeber any part # on it though. It was an emergency and the first one I found. Radiator that is.

Green ethylene glycol since new here.

Could be the other grounds, and there are alot of them. Or the 5v supply from the ECM. I have had several apps codes thru the years and it never turned out to be the Apps. I suck at electrical issues but my bet is on anything but the APPS. Also, disconnecting the battaeries will NOT clear a trouble code. You need a code reader/scanner to do that.

Smarty is vendor here. Contact info in the vendors section. Dont knoe that you are ****** or not, but it would not hurt to contact them.

I got mine a 150k. Started having trouble about a year, maybe 20k, later. Had about 5 psi at idle and 0 at wot. They dont have great history in the second gens. But if you have one the makes good pressure and flows good, run it. Just keep a real close eye on it.