dripley

Seems we had a good discussion about this a while back and ir was common for it to be to hot hold. But we never concluded how hot is too hot.

Mine gets hot enough you cant touch it for long.

I think every thing associated with the hydoboost gets hot.

In NJ, yes. Maybe not every where but @pepsi71ocean could enlighten us I'm sure. I did manage to find a couple sef serve pumps but yhey were off by themselves and had hellacious fire suppression system around them.

No servo would equal fly by wire.

We had someone on here a little while back that had an 01 manual with a vacuum servo on it. I dont think we ever determined wherther the tranny had been changed. @Jake B do you have a vacuum servo under the drivers battery?

I built 2 CFA's in NJ. Mt Laurel and Howell. Howell was all union. Had some good people on the job but I never could grasp all of the union rules and regs. The biggest mistake I made was pulling into the gas station and started pumping my own fuel. The guy in the kiosk liked to had a heart attack.

I will get a picture when I get back home. It has plastic studs the protrude off the back of the insert. They are iinserted thru holes in the door panel then heat welded or melted over the back of the door panel. All of mine broke off and it seperated,from the panel. Probably could have screwed it back on some way or another but the fabric was shot also. I had also worn the top of panel at the window completely smooth and very shiny from all those years of resting my arm on it. I'm sure yours is similar.

That miht be far enough away.

I could shine mine but insert was comletely broken away from the door panel and you could stick your hand inside the door. I see your insert has gotten plenty of elbow time too.

If I tell the wife about stage 2 purchase, you are all invited to the wake. Mine that is.

I am up for this. Do y'all do small business loans also?

The electronics will control everything based on sensor info. All you is plug and play with the EZ and the RV's. The RV's will push more fuel which will produce more exhaust and spin the turbo faster and push more air in the engine. All you have to do push the go pedal. You will need a boost elbow to help it. I bleeds pressure off of the waste gate to keep closed longer allowing higher boost pressures. There is no need for head studs with tthe EZ. The Quad is different in that you can many parameters. It is a bit over my head but still might go that route one day

I think you need to see your counsler about this chicken ferish. It sounds serious. When you're saying bezel do you mean dash or the door insert? The few I have seen are the same way. This last guy I went to buys the wrecks, strips them down, and stock piles all the parts. The door panels he had were in a canvas shed about 8X16. It was slam full of them. He is a bit pricier than a U Pull it yard. I dont think I would use a dash or bezel out of an old because Iit would crack on me as soon as I put it on.

I have towed my 15k 5th wheel with just he rv 275's and it did fine it was not a beast but did the job. 6 to 7 percent grades in 5th, 4th your case, thru the mountains in NC. A boost fooler and elbow would help. For a while I had a Banks Ottomind on it till it crapped the bed. All this on the stock clutch and never sipped it, also the clutch had 170k on it. My vote would be the EZ and RV's. Economical and a decent bump in power. The Banks tuner added abot 75hp and was not smokey. I have not personally run an EZ. I also am not mountain dweller but have towed over the Blue Ridge many times with the 5th wheel. Thats in the 6000 foot or so elevation.

Now thats just uncalled for there. This is a job for the free ranger chickens, if I could find them.

I did twice. Shen clutch time came I took it to shop I now. It was right before Thanksgiving and cold. Couldn't bring myself to do it.

I used ratchet straps also. Left that out.

That is my understanding.

Cruise control is one. My 02 is fly by wire and most likely your 01. Late model manual trans came with fly by wire. Mine has a couple capped off IIRC.

I bolted a flat piece of steel to a floor jack in place of the round cup the first time I took mine off and got the bolt about center ways of the tranny housing. It worked ok but had to have the jack almost fully extended and was precarious looking to say the least. I did this i my gravel drive way with a piece of 3/4 plywood for a floor. That just added to my worry of it tipping over. Worked out ok though.

The vacuum and washer are seperate. Just had cowl off and disconnected the washer under the cowl on the left side. I did not pay any attention to where the line ran. But it would not surprise if it was on the left headed towards the resevoir along the fender. The vacuum could be leaking any where. If it is all original I would start at the pump and follow it and replace any bad fittings along the way. Does you ac/heat blow out of the dash vents?

The one I went to was at a guys house. It was pretty tight in there. He sells a lot parts up north. He gets wrecks and takes them apart and stock piles the stuff. Not your typical salvage yard. Dodge is all he has. His wife is taking my old drivers seat, rebuilding the cushion and sewing me a new cover out some of the salvage fabric from the wrecks for 150 bucks. We will see how that works out

DAP used to rent one by the month and I thought people were doing that very thing with them. Thought that was about the only thing you could change that would stay after returning said truck to srock. The 6 cylinder high idle kicks somewhere around 32* and the 3 cylinder somewhere between 32 and 0. But there are other parameters that have to be met also which I dont remeber.

I know the smarty you return to stock programming, to take the Comp out of the equation you have to disconnect it from the MAP and data link. I also uplug the pump tap wire. The fuel and throttle control is all electronic. A sticky injector will miss fire or perform badly. When mine would do it I always had full throrrle response. I could overcome it just by sticking my foot in it, unless it went dead pedal then I had wait for the throttle to come back. Also with the tps codes I was getting I figured it must be the TPS so I replaced it with a cheap one off of ebay. It stopped the surging so I bought another Timbo. Put it on and surging was back. WTF, so I reinstalled the cheap one and the surging went away but then I had a constant p222 code. I'd clear it it would come back imediately. So ai put the original Timbo back in and fought on and off for the next year or 2. Since repairing the splice mine has worked fine and still have the original Timbo on the truck. The splice I speak is not factory, it was self inflicted. It is possible that your signal wire is chafed some where, or a sensor that is going south just hard to say with out any codes. Chasing these types of gremlins are not fun especially with no codes. If youmcan leave your live data tool connected and drive it around until it does act up and least you see if the computer is surging the engine. I know mine was. Hopefully one ofmthe other electrical genius's can add something to this. @Mopar1973Man, @Me78569???