dripley

Much to the chagrin of my two esteemed friends above, I do fill my fuel filters when changing them by pouring it straight into the filter. I cant believe that little bit of unfiltered fuel is going to wreck any thing. I used to do my oil filters that way too but just spin them on dry now. But to their credit I understand where they are coming from. We get to make our own choices.

This is definitely one that I will not touch. I have gained a lot of confidence and here tackled projects I never did before. And much to my surprise the bulk of it has turned out well. Time is part of the reason but I sure woud hate to loose my steering while blazing down the interstate. It would not end well. Who knows when I retire maybe I will tackle one just to see. Good instructions would be necessary.

I always used the lift pump to fill mine. Just a short bump on the starter for 25 second run of the pump.

Looks like you have an auto converted to a manual with that cup holder. They came on the autos. You seem to have a custom bend on the shifter. That is based on my 02. I have spare speedo my self. I stick it in there and bam now my truck has 133k on it instead 473k. Not sure how you garauntee mileage on one these trucks.

I have them on mine. Put them on 2 years ago. I bought about 5 uears ago and dont remember them having the hose with the hump. I used straight piece that was 3" long. I think thats all they had then but it has been to long ago to know for sure. The couplings and the reducing are still working fine. They fit well and dont leak. I run about 32 psi thru them on my truck How long they last compared to others, only time will tell. So far I am satisfied. Here is photo of the straight coupling, an inch longer could not hurt. Cant really get a photo of the reducers.

Mine usese the same starter as the 5 speed and auto but with a spacer between the block and the starter. That leads me to believe the ring in mine is closer to the block.

You dont have to swap the hubs. Just disable the CAD. The manual pull cables where you can engage the CAD for 4w lo or not for 2w lo. There is a way to do it the vacuum line also. I guess in a pinch you could disconnect the vacuum line from the CAD and plug it for 2w lo. Mine does not like to make 90* or better turns in 4wd on pavement. Maybe on a long sweeping curve but definitely not 2nd gear 90* turns in town. Even when I back out of the gravel drive at home you can feel it start to bind up before I can pull forward and leave. Noticed that the other day while messing with the 4w in the drive way and forgot to take out upon leaving.

Thats the retirement dance. Hubba, hubba.

I did the same thing on blocking the motor, but after looking at the weight is forward of mounts. It's the only way it can go. It hurt nothing on mine. Will the ohd fit the oe flywheel? Almost went with one myself but went with the ofe instead.

My Banks is controled by no switches just wire taps. Vacuum powered. Dont know if your truck was an auto but it sure did not come with G56.

Well chunk my theory in creek.

Appreciate you thinking about my health. The smoking has been weighing on me pretty hard the past couple years and it is about to chuck em. To easy to buy and very hard to put them down. I remeber back in the 70's saying if they ever get to a dollar a pack I'm quitting. Did not listen to myself very well. Also i guess all the mass quantities we consumed back then have most likely worn off since my hippie days.

Dont tell PETA. The poop/stink will be in the air then, wooo we!!!

Any suto's? I take it not since you did not mention it. Do the nv4500's have a spacer for the starter?

Good place for 2w low. If you have done the mod that is.

They make straight pins with little plastic balls on the end. Keeps them from touching together if you have multiple back probes in a small area.

Could be an auto to manual difference. My 6 speed requires a spacer to move it towards the front of the engine about 3/8" so it will engage the fly wheel. I have never had a barring tool to know.

Video is not working. was the road paved?

Some of the readings you take have to be made with the connector connected such as pin 3 and 10 since voltage comes from the ECM. The power for the ECM comes from the connector. You can back probe them with a straight pin and then read them. Which other ones are like that I am not sure.

Those have been around for quite while but I bet they aint good on the highway. Hate to think how bad they would beat up even in a smooth riding auto mobile. I dont rent a bob cat with air filled tires any more. Just to harsh on this old man.

I am not discounting what you say. It is a very good thing to try and might help. I just cant remember how many I have had my batteries disconnected and forget to do it. I never had it make a difference. But if I was having any issues, surging being on of them, it is simple to do just eliminate it as the issue. Not wanting to bring any bad luck but when did that it was the ECM. I was seeing alot more codes. There were both high and low codes for me. Hope yours is not the ECM.

The 1693 is just one computer letting you know the other computer has a code in it. Nothing more.

I am not the electrical genius around here but it would seem there in issue with the 5v reference signal on the sensors. could even be a bad sensor causing trouble on the circuit. Others smarter than me will be along. Here is a wiring diagram that will help.

I have you checked for codes? Was it running ok before the head gasket install?

I am glad I had mine since it was new. I am still lacking in the electrical dept but at least I put in what ever is there.