dripley

Nothing wrong with that. Did alot of torquing on the head gasket replacement. Just never torqued an oil pan plug.

Tight. Thats my torque on the plug.

My OE pump lasted 75k on a stock truck running just like yours, no fuel pressure gauge and pre LSD and ULSD. My lift pump failed at 150k and I ended up with an in tank pump. About 25k miles later I started having dead pedal and bucking issues and that when I found that pump to have about 5 psi at idle and near 0 psi at WOT. I installed a booster pump on the frame rail and the issues went away. Still no fuel pressure gauge and stock lines.At 217k the truck had a major malfunction and I replaced the pump due to its history with low fuel pressure. Turned out to be the ECM but thats another story. I put on a Blue Chip just like you bought. It was about this time I started learning about fuel pressure and its importance. I also learned about using 2 stroke oil after joining this forum. So here I am with the BC pump and an Air Dog lift pump. My luck with them has not been as good as @Mopar1973Man. I have had 2 failures which AD has warranted and replaced still a hassle to mess with though. But the pump has 253k on it and is still going strong even after 2 lift pump failures. It has been fed good pressure and 2 stroke almost all its life and will continue to see that until it dies. Maybe a booster pump help temporarily. It worked with the in tank but don know about the block mounted pump.

Mine were tow mirrors and not the Sport mirrors. Just manual though. I like that idea. Simple, have to try it on my passenger mirror. It vibrates more than I like.

There isa acouple chevys they are going to come stock on next year. We shall see how they work. Seems they ought to have some sort of sidewall on them to keep debris out. But what do I know.

The 2nd gen style I have now are both flat. Can't remeber if the OE was convex or not. I am thinking not since the tow mirrors have the small convex mirror.

Thats how my Comp comes off plus the pump tap.

On the MAP sensor there are 2 plugs. Unplug the one to the sensor then unplug the oe harness from the other and plug the oe harness into the MAP sensor. The other plug you describe, just unplug it. Nothing will plug back into it. It is a data link and is not used under normal operation. Some one smarter thsn me would explain its purpose except for using it on a tuner. Then there is a power source for the module. Just follow the wires and disconnect. I believe that is all you need on the EZ.

So I can get extra $1k just because I still have the jack? Kidding aside that is good looking truck. Mine is not even close. I think I would stick to your price.

I think the seat design is a bit different from early to the late models but they might mount the same. There is also a seat belt module in some. I guess in other words I dont know actually.

4707 Airport blvd. On the west side of univerisity blvd.

I was bit slow picking up on that one. Did'nt mean to put this here. The light they put out does not show well in the picture. There is a mail box about 50' back that I could see fine but not the camera. I replaced the oe resistor formthe same reason and still ended up replacingmthe blower a couple months later. Just did them both this time, working up u der the dash just aint fun.

I sleep 2 ways. One, on the cold side of the AC unit or Two, on the warm side of the heater. The rest is up to your imagination.

How do you like the convex part being a bigger portion of the mirror so far??

How do they figure that if the injuries were sustained in the wreck?

I built a CFA over on Airport blvd there in Mobile several years back. Wish I was still there I would come by a take a look.

Here is what i used. Bit different than Mike's. But work fine and I got them on special for 15 bucks on special with free shipping. https://www.amazon.com/Reverse-AUXITO-102-SMD-Chipsets-Projector/dp/B0749G3M4Y

I have to vote for a cab swap after seeing the prices and all the odd shapes needing replacement. Looks very labor intensive.

More like the TGIFBKCFA Chalet, and thats just the inside.

I dare day he does not have rear calipers either.

Well that would explain it. I you had the panels on there maybe I would not have strained my brain so hard. Pretty easy for me to do sometimes.

I figured to go thru one off my roofing contractors and get new when I need it. I am thinking some of the flashing has to be heat welded but never looked close enough to detirmine that. But that coating looks very promising especially with the longevity you are seeing.

Well someone needs to get the ski jump off the container and back on the mountain. Try as I may I cant figure out what that is???

Does it have one of those levers between the bed and the diff that adjust pressure based on load? I have read about them but have no experience with them. I think my 96 had 4 wheel anti lock, but that was a long time ago.