dripley

The worst place is the evaporator. Can't check it without removing the dash and hvac box. When I opened mine up there was a green slimey mess in the botton of it from the dye I put in. The other bad place is the compressor seal, can't really see it either. I kind of gave up on the dye since you can get to all the other connections with soap and water. A new compressor is not but about $125 on rock auto. Last year anyway, not sure if the new tarriffs has run that up.

Just drove to get some non ethanol gas and the center temp got down around 50 I figure thats just driving it. One other thing I have always thought was bit strange is any time I get a discharge of refridgerent is how oily it is. Seems to be that way out of the can. I use Wally world 134a. There is nothing on the can that says there is any oil in it but it makes me wonder. But if what I know is right if there was to much oil in the system it would not be cooling worth a damn either.

My AC has been working so far this yearbut is getting a bit warmer. It was hitting about 40* out the center vents but has crept up to about 55*. I put gauges on it and static pressure was about 80 psi. Started the motor and the high pressure is about 140 but the low pressure is pretty much pegged and bouncing. The compressor clutch is engaged, ambient temp 85* and center vents at 55*. Low pressre switch? Thought that should shut the compressor down. Expansion/orifice tube maybe?

He has a juice with attitude if that makes a difference. You could discconect it and see if it helps. Disconnect everything. I still believe ir is something you messed or disturbed while messing with fog lights.

Unless you have to buy wheels. One time expense granted, but an extra 3 or hundred bucks. The other is the 17" tires are more expensive, $25 or so. And there seems to be not as much choice on the 17's but I have not spent alot time looking. I cant argue with this. As one who sees alot highway miles. But used to only get about 70k out of front brakes pre e brake. The 7 years, 180k or so, mine worked I did no front brakes.

What electronics stayed on? Not sure how a battery could cause that. I would ho back and check everything you messed prior to the issue arising.

I am no electrician either but that is aftermarket and lord knows how its connected or to what. i take it the truck was running good until you cut the wires?

Thats a fairly common disease believe. I have my bouts with it.

I ddi mention I bought mine for towing, just assumed everyone would know that it is best used for down hill and not up hill.

Smaller injectors. Go easy on the right foot off idle. Or Get a Quad, then you can tune the smoke away.

Wlecome. Happy you've been finding what you needed.

I had 50's on mine with the Comp. Way to smokey my taste. No way to tune it out except with your right foot.

I might choke on that $700. And be aware that box shown says it only works on the T type steering and not the Y type. Not sure why but thats what it says.

My SGII would do that when the sensor was working but at wierd numbers. I idled around 27 psi and WOT around 34 psi. But it did rise and fall like it should until the sensor failed.

Do you have a link to the hd box?

I bought mine for the extra braking while towing. But once I started using it I never turned off. It was just as benificial while DD'ing. Even if I had it on from mile number one the saved money on brake pads would not have paid for half of it at 467k. The brake savings was a minor factor in my purchase. I agree with you on the discussion. These are welcome.

I agree. Mine read whacky numbers for boost. The 14.6 reading was the SG version of zero. The Snap on read 0. Neither of them moved while driving. A new sensor did fix my issues. To the OP, whule sensor did fix mine it still could be wiring issue. I rolled the dice and won.

Well that tells me that Dodge was not scared of them, at least for the first 100k anyway.

I think if e brakes were tearing things up and wearing things out prematurely we all would have heard about it long ago and there would not much of market for them. If I am not mistaken Dodge sold and maybe installed @Mopar1973Man his when the truck was new. Not sure but he has had his a very lomg time. Autommatics do require extra effort to use one. They have to be locked up to use it I believe.

I have an aftermarket waste gate actuator, Banks Big head, It opens near 33 psi. When the Banks tuner crapped out I drove it for 3 years before getting the comp. Towing or not I had to drive it by the boost gauge to keep from setting the code or the engine defueling. I also had RV 275's which will push the boost up more. When my map was failing I had a scan gauge II hooked up and when the problem would occur, just like what you are experiencing, the SCII would see 14.6 psi on the MAP and never move. I did get to hook it up to a Snap on Versus and read 0. that is how I determined mine was bad. Mine was doing the same as yours, just pain gutless.

You also should remove the boost elbow or close it all the way. Anything over 20 or so psi will set the the 234 code.My MAP sensor crapped the bed not long ago with the same symptoms. Had to make big runs at the hills just o get over them. The MAP is a $100 to $200 sensor so some trouble shooting would not hurt. The only place that had it in mine was Oriellys and they just happened to be the cheapest at about $105. You will exceed boost pressures with a stuck waste gate. Thats why the waste gate is there. It opens near 20 psi if it is the stock one. But if it is stuck closed you will exceed the 20 or 22 psi to throw the code. I take you do not have a boost gauge.

Rock auto has them. BWD as I remember, same as the OE.

Just to add, any 6 speed can be a bit difficult to go into reverse or first right off the lot. Putting it into 4th to get reverse is not abnormal. Still have to do it mine sometimes to this day. The dual disk from what I know just makes it a bit worse. The 5600 is a big tranny and a lot different from the 5 speed.

With butter of course.

I think here in North Carolina my truck will be considered an antique at 25 yeats old and I can get an antique license tag for it. I think registration fees are waived and insurance is cheaper, but I believe there is a mileage limit you can drive it then with the antique tag.