Everything posted by dripley
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CEL
He has a juice with attitude if that makes a difference. You could discconect it and see if it helps. Disconnect everything. I still believe ir is something you messed or disturbed while messing with fog lights.
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3rd gen brake conversion on a dually
Unless you have to buy wheels. One time expense granted, but an extra 3 or hundred bucks. The other is the 17" tires are more expensive, $25 or so. And there seems to be not as much choice on the 17's but I have not spent alot time looking. I cant argue with this. As one who sees alot highway miles. But used to only get about 70k out of front brakes pre e brake. The 7 years, 180k or so, mine worked I did no front brakes.
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CEL
What electronics stayed on? Not sure how a battery could cause that. I would ho back and check everything you messed prior to the issue arising.
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CEL
I am no electrician either but that is aftermarket and lord knows how its connected or to what. i take it the truck was running good until you cut the wires?
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Blue-Top vs Redhead steering gear
Thats a fairly common disease believe. I have my bouts with it.
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Front Brakes
I ddi mention I bought mine for towing, just assumed everyone would know that it is best used for down hill and not up hill.
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Smokin
Smaller injectors. Go easy on the right foot off idle. Or Get a Quad, then you can tune the smoke away.
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Hello from Montana
Wlecome. Happy you've been finding what you needed.
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Smokin
I had 50's on mine with the Comp. Way to smokey my taste. No way to tune it out except with your right foot.
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Blue-Top vs Redhead steering gear
I might choke on that $700. And be aware that box shown says it only works on the T type steering and not the Y type. Not sure why but thats what it says.
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Failed MAP cause low power?
My SGII would do that when the sensor was working but at wierd numbers. I idled around 27 psi and WOT around 34 psi. But it did rise and fall like it should until the sensor failed.
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Blue-Top vs Redhead steering gear
Do you have a link to the hd box?
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Front Brakes
I bought mine for the extra braking while towing. But once I started using it I never turned off. It was just as benificial while DD'ing. Even if I had it on from mile number one the saved money on brake pads would not have paid for half of it at 467k. The brake savings was a minor factor in my purchase. I agree with you on the discussion. These are welcome.
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Failed MAP cause low power?
I agree. Mine read whacky numbers for boost. The 14.6 reading was the SG version of zero. The Snap on read 0. Neither of them moved while driving. A new sensor did fix my issues. To the OP, whule sensor did fix mine it still could be wiring issue. I rolled the dice and won.
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Front Brakes
Well that tells me that Dodge was not scared of them, at least for the first 100k anyway.
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Front Brakes
I think if e brakes were tearing things up and wearing things out prematurely we all would have heard about it long ago and there would not much of market for them. If I am not mistaken Dodge sold and maybe installed @Mopar1973Man his when the truck was new. Not sure but he has had his a very lomg time. Autommatics do require extra effort to use one. They have to be locked up to use it I believe.
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Failed MAP cause low power?
I have an aftermarket waste gate actuator, Banks Big head, It opens near 33 psi. When the Banks tuner crapped out I drove it for 3 years before getting the comp. Towing or not I had to drive it by the boost gauge to keep from setting the code or the engine defueling. I also had RV 275's which will push the boost up more. When my map was failing I had a scan gauge II hooked up and when the problem would occur, just like what you are experiencing, the SCII would see 14.6 psi on the MAP and never move. I did get to hook it up to a Snap on Versus and read 0. that is how I determined mine was bad. Mine was doing the same as yours, just pain gutless.
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Failed MAP cause low power?
You also should remove the boost elbow or close it all the way. Anything over 20 or so psi will set the the 234 code.My MAP sensor crapped the bed not long ago with the same symptoms. Had to make big runs at the hills just o get over them. The MAP is a $100 to $200 sensor so some trouble shooting would not hurt. The only place that had it in mine was Oriellys and they just happened to be the cheapest at about $105. You will exceed boost pressures with a stuck waste gate. Thats why the waste gate is there. It opens near 20 psi if it is the stock one. But if it is stuck closed you will exceed the 20 or 22 psi to throw the code. I take you do not have a boost gauge.
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Cruise Control Light
Rock auto has them. BWD as I remember, same as the OE.
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Vibration after Southbend Dual Disc Clutch installed
Just to add, any 6 speed can be a bit difficult to go into reverse or first right off the lot. Putting it into 4th to get reverse is not abnormal. Still have to do it mine sometimes to this day. The dual disk from what I know just makes it a bit worse. The 5600 is a big tranny and a lot different from the 5 speed.
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No Start... Please Help!!!
With butter of course.
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Had a little time yesterday at work yesterday
I think here in North Carolina my truck will be considered an antique at 25 yeats old and I can get an antique license tag for it. I think registration fees are waived and insurance is cheaper, but I believe there is a mileage limit you can drive it then with the antique tag.
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Towing...Your Experience Is Appreciated 98.5 24V 2500
My first was a Banks Ottomind back in 05. It came with an exhaust system, gauges and what not. 75 hp, tapped the pump and no adjustments. Simplicity I was for that. It crapped the bed and I went with Comp. Still simple. The Quad appears a bit complicated, but reading what I have here has helped me understand it better. I still think for me it will be a challenge. But now if I win raffle........
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Had a little time yesterday at work yesterday
I like you intend to "rod up" in couple years. Part of my compensation includes all my fuel too, going to miss that one myself. I have always thought the million mile thing gets misconstrued. I think it's more geared to the person 50k to 100k a year and not the 10k to15k and a year driver. I am approching 470k and 17.5 years of ownership. Never in my wildest dreams back in 01 did I think I would still be driving it today. I have had issues for sure, bad ecm, trany, one VP I paid for, fuel system, and just replaced the head gasket. Still surpised at other OE items that are still on the truck. My biggest nemesis is electrical gremlins, my very weak spot. All in all I have more than gotten my moneys worth out of it and don't think I will partmwith it. Parts are much easier for us to get our hands on over here so I feel your pain. That is big factor. If I can get past the electrical part I can handle the mechanical part. I intend to have my son take me on last ride in this truck. But when talking to him about it he told me it better be running good or he was going to call ahead and tell them to dig a bigger hole. Feel the love. Good luck to you and find what you want to tinker with. Think Imammsticking with this one.
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02 24v no start
Mine still shows who.