Everything posted by dripley
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Injector Advice for a 99
I turned 66 2 months ago and its pretty apparent I aint 50 no more. But while I have dealt with heal spurs and other old age crap, I am by far in a better physical place than you are. I admire your attitude. Hard to seem the good amongst all that adversity. I built a CFA in Mobile about 4 years ago. Seems my timing is bit off to help.
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Free time?
Well I would say things are looking up for the wallet at least. Free time not so much though. On the 6.7, did you have to remove the rockers to get at them? May the DAP box be pooped on your porch quickly.
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Injector Advice for a 99
A bit off the truck here, but I know about the pain of heal spurs with what I went thru. At the time the doc told there wer 2 options. One, try anti inflammatories and strecting exercises and the other was surgically remove them. Looking at the xrays it was pretty apparent that I would layed for quite while which the doc confitmed since he would have to cut the achilles tendon off the bone. The anti inflammatories and excercise worked for me, thank goodness. One other thing I looked into was a way to sonically to remove them. It was a practice being used in the NE at the time. No surgical procedure. Maybe thats another route to look at. I stopped looking into it after the first way was working. Hate to see you have to sell, but I do know that heel spurs are probably the worst pain I have ever dealt with. At least when I tore the tendon, the pain went away in 6 to 8 weeks, still a bit tender after that but nothing like the spurs. I remember getting up in the RV in the mornings and that 2 step walk to toilet was almost more than I could bare.
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Still trying to figure my truck out
Prior to to all the smoke and high EGT's? Is your boost gauge reading normal now?
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Still trying to figure my truck out
Sounds like a boost leak.
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Hard start in morning, then good rest of day
Damn, just lost my bet.
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Hard start in morning, then good rest of day
That did not fix my issue either, it just got me by untill I could find the problem. With what you have already done my money is on the return line on the back of the head or the tee below it. It does not take much of a leak to cause hard starts and they are not always visible. Thats where my first hard start issue came from. Simple parts but a pain to get to. Not knocking @Mopar1973Man suggestions in the least.
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Injection pump failed?
https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting-1 Here is some very good info on the VP and issues.
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Hard start in morning, then good rest of day
I currently have 467k on my cross over tubes. I know things wear out, but that is some seriously hard steel they are made of, on the late models anyway. This last time I went thru it if it did not start in in a couple seconds I let off the key and let the lift pump run a cycle then hit it again. Repated if necessary. Not sure the truck started any quicker but figured it was easier on the starter.
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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free
I get ringht at 11.5 out of mine running the interstates aroind 65 mph . Grossing right at 23k like this.
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Hard start in morning, then good rest of day
This was also causeing hard start issues for me. Severe at times. Occasionally it would bust right off, but not for the most. Replacing them and the crossover tube orings stopped the issues completely. It does not take much of a leak in the high pressure or return side of things to cause hard starts.
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New User
Welcome. You generosity is appreciated by all.
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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free
The first 4 years with mine bone factory I pulled a 12k 5th wheel. It was not fast but it pulled it just fine down the interstate at speed. A tuner and RV275's worked wonders on it.
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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=asc_df_B00H9S71LW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312142020868&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14645858020923586739&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010187&hvtargid=aud-836408683912:pla-433361767800&psc= Sorry forgot to attach it. See if you can adjust it where you see about 20 psi and that will take out the ECM defueling. I dont know anything about the Snap On Brick. It might read them.
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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free
What kind of actuator do you have? Neither of the 2 I have had are adjustable. One was the oe the other is a Banks. I am not familiar with an adjustable wasre gate. They do make boost elbows to do that with. My comp came with one. If you have adjustmet get the pressure down around 20 and see if it helps Pull them out and see what you have. There should be a part # on the upper body of the injector. Be good to get a look at there condition too. You will need more than basic scanner to read the sensors, but they are not expensive. Here is a popular one. Works with your phone or computer.
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ABS
Gremlins, everybody has them.
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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free
Actuator or boost elbow? My actuator is not adjustable but a boost elbow adjusts the pressure to actuator. May be the one you have is. And @Me78569 is dead right about the ecm seeing boost properly.
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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free
I agree with what your saying but it sounds like his truck does not pull as good as mine, stock, and I have 3:55 gears and 15k pound trailer and he is only pulling 9k or so with 4:10's. Just seems like something is out of whack.
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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free
I agree with both you @Dieselfuture and @Mopar1973Man. Hope I can get there one day. Tired of turning the Comp down so it does not smoke. But I am thinking that @Karl wants it stock from what he is saying. Plese corret me if I am wrong.
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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free
If you have your foot in it and it is making 24psi the ECM is defueling the engine. The stock actuator should open at near 20 psi unless it is stuck shut which yours might be since you are seeing 24 psi. I am surprises you are not setting an overboost code. Have checked for codes? I am not trying to get you to change your tire size, just curious what size are on there? Thats all. You are right it should pull a house, mine on 3:55 gears and 15k pound 5th wheel will pull better than yours with the tuner off. At least it sounds that way. There is something else going on.
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Transmission hangs in second
Dont you love gremlins.
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Mechanical lift pump
The strainer is a very course filter you need prior to the pump to protect it from debris in thr fuel. I am not sure what type is needed for mechanical pumps. You definitely need to go the factory fuel filter. That is the only filtration and water seperation on the truck. The Vp and injectors need that protection.
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2000 3500 no power,sucks fuel like it's free
I'm a little confused. Earlier you said you could get up to 30 psi which to me means you would have at least a boost foolet of some sort. Then a couple post back you cant hit but 24 pulling a trailer with little power. That woild be indiicative of stock defuelig at high boost levels. A stock truck will do this at about 20 psi. I too have an after market waste gate actuator that opnes around 33 to 34 psi. When my tuner crapped the bed I had to drive and tow by the boost gauge and keep it below 20 psi. So I have to ask, Have owned the truck since new to know its has not modified? What after market waste gate actuator are you runninng? What size tires do you run?
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Project finished.
Caster bolts. No camber adjustments on the 4wd. It is fixed. Below is an example of the bolts you need. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,steering,pinion+angle+adjusting+bolt,1364
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P1693 with NO companion code
I am holding a new one in my hand. I can see into the hole on each as I have many times but now is first time I ever tried look thru one. Cant see squat. Never new the bore was that small thru it. Live and learn.