dripley

Could be the starter relay in the PDC. Swap the horn relay with it and see if starts, as long as the horn works. They are the same kind of relay. I have the same problem in mine. I hate electrical problems. Think I would rather replace the head gasket again as chase them down.

It does not look that much different than my AD. The new 4g pump is very difficult to hear compared to the old style. They do appear to use better fittings and the filtration is 2 microns vs the 5 on mine but I could get a different filter. I just dont see any benefit to that unless the pump is designed to push more fuel thru a more restrictive filter. Others would know more about that part than I would. As far as the rf noise, Thats over my head.

The WTS is a funtion of the ECM. It is only on for a couple seconds at key on in this warm a weather. Should be the first light illuminated on the dash. You can hot wire the solenoid on the starter to check and see if it is a starter issue. I would definitely go back and check your electrical connections just to be sure they are clean and tight.

Put a 2" lift on there and 22" tires, who would know......

I could see you in one of these. Not old diesel but its really you. https://www.google.com/search?q=mercedes+smart+car&oq=mercedes+smart&aqs=chrome.0.0j69i57j0l2.13047j0j7&client=tablet-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#imgrc=e434rBkFUHHLV Great mileage and it has a warranty.

If I am reading the signature correctly you do not have a tuner to adjust anything with. Ok. Re reading the title I guess you do have a Quad. Just saw the "all stock" in the sig.

Canabanoids.

Thanks for clarifying that. My education continues.

You do need a signal from the crank sensor for the truck to run. As far the 25 second lift pump run, I dont know.

Thats my understanding. Speed signal goes to the abs then to the pcm and then the ecm and cruise is set. Too many computers in that party for me. But if I am wrong someone will straghten us both out.

Sounds like the the relay was not installed right. The relay should have done the same thing your toggle switch and wire did, take the load off the switch.

Scan the truck for trouble codes, that is always a good starting point.

It's well buttered. After weather like this if the wife goes outside it's like setting up the buffet table for mosquitos.

What I have read backs this up. At start up when the pressure reaches about 6 psi it either opens or closes the switch, I think it opens it, then the pressure reading is based on ect and rpm. It does good job of mimicking a real pressure gauge. Fooled me for years.

I realize that but the gauge would receive the signal differently would it not? Ours just closes a switch when pressure is detected then the ECM takes over using rpm and ect for the pressure reading. The early ones actually read the pressure and send that on to the gauge. Just makes me wonder it the early models are wonky like that.

@Mopar1973Man Correct me if I am wrong but this is on your 02 with the one wire switch and not the earlier years with an actual pressure sensor. My 02 is the same way. I wonder if the earlier years react the same way.

I have been running the bhaf for several years with no shield. There seems to be no ill affect for me.

I think I would going back to where I bought it and asking what that filter put in my engine. Take the tube too. Though the stuff in tube looks fine dust of some sort.

The sensor comes to mind, Could be failing but not enough to trip a code.

I am not convince the VP is the weak link. Maybe early on but they have been improved over the years. That has been kicked around for the years I have been here and before. People tried heat sinks, blowers and other things to take the heat away. A lot of what everyone does is based on personal experience. We have members here that have gone 200k, 300k+ on oe vp's with a mostly stock fuel system. Then others like me who only got 75k or less out of there OE VP on the stock system. My second pump was malfunctioning until I modified the fuel system to get it more fuel. it lasted 150k. The present one has 253k on an AD fuel system and 2 stroke. The first 2 did not. I would be hard pressed to go back to what failed because it works for someone else. On the other hand you guys that have gotten the great miles out of near stock systems or cheaper lift pumps that will never buy what I bought. I get it. But it does not seem to work for every one.

Good to hear that all is working again. How much lighter is your wallet?

Did you ever one of these? It was cheap.

Nothing wrong with that. Did alot of torquing on the head gasket replacement. Just never torqued an oil pan plug.

Tight. Thats my torque on the plug.

My OE pump lasted 75k on a stock truck running just like yours, no fuel pressure gauge and pre LSD and ULSD. My lift pump failed at 150k and I ended up with an in tank pump. About 25k miles later I started having dead pedal and bucking issues and that when I found that pump to have about 5 psi at idle and near 0 psi at WOT. I installed a booster pump on the frame rail and the issues went away. Still no fuel pressure gauge and stock lines.At 217k the truck had a major malfunction and I replaced the pump due to its history with low fuel pressure. Turned out to be the ECM but thats another story. I put on a Blue Chip just like you bought. It was about this time I started learning about fuel pressure and its importance. I also learned about using 2 stroke oil after joining this forum. So here I am with the BC pump and an Air Dog lift pump. My luck with them has not been as good as @Mopar1973Man. I have had 2 failures which AD has warranted and replaced still a hassle to mess with though. But the pump has 253k on it and is still going strong even after 2 lift pump failures. It has been fed good pressure and 2 stroke almost all its life and will continue to see that until it dies. Maybe a booster pump help temporarily. It worked with the in tank but don know about the block mounted pump.