dripley

Here is an example i have found of late model rockers be represented to fit early and late. https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-9L-6-7L-Diesel-Valve-Rocker-Arm-Assembly-Fits-98-18-Dodge-Ram-2500-3500-/273003887872?redirect=mobi I dont know the product other than what it says. I found numerous similar adds for new and used. Anyone else ever look into this? Not yet. I took a day off and played with the family. My daughter and 2 grand daughters are spending the week here. I will try and get some later today. Got to start getting it cleaned up.

That is where it was leaking. And yes I am guilty of to long of intervals on changing and flushing the coolant. A habit I broke some time after reading about it here. I did always mix it 50 50 as with all my vehicles. Just never kept one this long. How did yours look on the back corner when it started leaking? I think part of my issue is waiting 20k to fix it after it stared leaking. Just could not get any down time to fix it. My head bolts were almost all the same legnth, 5 1/8". This was by eye comparing one bolt to all the rest. I do realize that we are talking thousands of an inch here so eye ball is not accurate to that but the few that were different were miniscule.

Have you googled the part number?

In my searching today I found offers of rocker assemblies into the 6.7 early years as they would fit the 2nd gen. Though I am not convinced enough to buy. But if trunions are the same I would throw 150 bucks at a set and try and polish the rockers.

It appears somewhere along the line Cummins cut the groove in theirs also. From I have been reading It would appear that later model rocker arm assemblies will fit our second gens, even out of 6.7 engines. I know they look the same and represented to fit and the ones I have seen are used. Definitely have not convinced my self of going that route and you can buy the Cummins updated trunnion by itself just not sure that it fits the rockers I have. The assemblies might interchange but I dont know the trunnions would interchange between the early and late assemblies, if that makes any sense. I found the late model trunnions new for around $15 each. I would give that a try if I can confirm they will fit my rockers.

That is pretty much what I am seeing on most of mine. I did a little google research and it seems to be somewhat common. Saw the blame laid on performance upgrades, CI & J oils having less ZDDP addatives, lag time on the oil reaching the rockers on start up and such. Cummins apparently has update them to include a groove cut in the trunion like your Manton you have. So my search is on for now,

I will talk with them about that. Thanks for the info. Took the head to them this am. Asked them if I could watch them magna flux the head when they did it for my furthering education, he took me back and did one that was ready. Thought there was more to it than that. His buddy showed me one they had just done where the powder was sucked up in the crack. Pretty simple process. I was happy see my head was not the only 5.9 head in there also. I'll give it a try. I have used the B12 fuel adative in the small stuff around house with good succes.

I used Rotella for quite a long time and have been using Delo 400. Boyh regular dino oil. I have never used synthetic. I remeber seeing here a real high strength cerb cleaner. Any body know what it is? I stopped at an AA I use some times and the guy there recomended using aircraft paint stripper, which they had. The carb cleaner they carry is run of the mill stuff everyone has.

Were your rocker not scored as bad as the trunions? Mine are about equal. The pedastals looked fine. All of the scoring on mine appeared on the top. Not sure I could re move it with a scotch brite.

I got the head off this pm. The ony thing that held me up was the cold temps this morning and doing this alone. From this To this I didn't get inspect the cylinders to closely and did not rotate the engine but cross hatching is still visible and no scoring was observed. I will dig into that deeper tomorrow. I did however find this on the rockers and shafts. It shows up better in this picture of the rocker. It is scarring. I can feel it with fingernail but they dont catch my fingernail. Replace or not, that is the question? This is present on all but 2 intake and one xhaust. The offending gasket. A little closer view of the offending corner, lower right. Question time again. 1. The rockers and shafts. Replace or not? 2. How to clean the deck of the block? I am used to cleaning surfaces for new gaskets with razor blade. Seems that will invite debris into the cylinders. Better suggestions would be welcome. 3. Does this cleaning need to be to bare metal? That all I got for now. I will get some better pictures of the cylinders tomorrow when I get back from the machine shop.

I have seen a few. I prefer to lean the other. Always liked the stock rake of truck. But to each his own. And you too. Build what you want. I think everyone trying to warn you about the pitfalls and the expense to do it right. I personally would not do it. It still galls me to pay $900 for a set of tires.

I started doing that about 200k ago. Maybe not every oil change but most of them. Kept expecting some play to show up. Not so far though.

At least that has part #'s for them. They were not in the FSM. Appreciate the info. Turbo had me worried a bit. Went ahead with the disassembly figuring it did not matter. Makes sense on reassembly. Thats a funny one right there. I got it off this pm and taking to the machine tommorow am. More pictures to follow in a bit. Probably going to have wait and see where this takes me.

Pretty good news Mike. Hoping all stays well for you.

Does it make any difference what position the engine is to remove the rockers push rods and such?

The studs are shorter. If I am not mistaken the nuts go right against the manifold. That would make them the length of the bolt minus the spacer. I see none in the front and the pipe to the inter cooler is dry and oil free. But after reading your I reach over just check the play and there is still none in either direction. What disturbs me is now the wheel does not free spin. There is some resistance. Seems to me I spun not long ago and it was fine but it aint right now. I will pull tomorrow and see what the back side looks like.

Hope to see that in the next 4 hours. I have also thought about rebuilding the turbo while I have it off. The only thing stopping is the fact the turbo still works fine and has absolutely no end or axial play in it and spins freely. Anybody see any need to mess with it.

Here is what mine looked like. That 17 years on them. The worst on the left. I can see an advantage with thrm especially the 2 under the outlet. Had to outhink those 2.

The valves will get done unless miraculously they dont need any thing. As far porting, I have read enough about it to be dangerous. What advantage would I see? Is the stainless really necessary? The oe bolts were not corroded except for the heads. I broke them loose with a wrench and removed them with my fingers. All 12 of them. Figured if I broke a bolt it would happen here.

I get more metal strips if I could find a part number. I was surprised how easy they came out once I broke them loose. No corrosion at all, nothing but lock tite residue. Where did you get your studs from? My 66 year old arse dont pick up nothing it dont have to. The head is going to get whatever needs. We will see what happens at the machine shop. Nothing special just make right again. Thats actually the neighbors yard. He has grass. We have a multitude of green things growing in our yard. I try to keep mowed tight so it looks good from the street. But we have daffodils that look the same.

Forgot whole year thing.

Rock auto has this blend door. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+blend+door,10

I finally got started on this in earnest today. Did a little on it Monday pm. Then today after the morning mist died away and I got the doctors appointment out of the way the fun began. Itwent pretty well. Not one ceased bolt. They all came out nicely. Made this far today. My helper. The offending leak. The oil is from some bad pouring out of the gallon jug. Now a couple questions. Those metal strips between the pairs bolts at the front and rear of the exhaust manifold, are they necessary to reinstall? I thought they were under the bolt heads until I destroyed them all and realized they were over the bolts. They appear to keep the bolts from backing off? I will have to find some if necessary. The exhaust manifold gaskets have raised area on one side, does this raised portion go to the block or the manifold? . This arrived yesterday. Hope to have the head off and to the machine shop tomorrow. More to come.

The bucking I experienced was very much like the engine shutting down for split second. A pretty jolt. Mostly when I was towing like you mention or a WOT run at higher rpm empty. It happen to me before the oe VP crapped out at 75k. A filter chznge cured that though. Who da thunk you have change those things. A filter change did not however cure the problem after the intank pump was installed but the booster pump did. I ran that set 3 or so years before installing the AD. I came across it today while digging out the rear lifting ring for the head. That is a BD Diesel booster pump from 11 years ago.

Cloudy misty lightly breezy and cold here all morning. Starting to lighten up now. The mist has stopped anyway. It was that light mist that drifts horizontally and does not care whether you are covered or not.