dripley

I would just take it off for now. Mine was damaged about a year and a half ago so I removed it. There is a difference in handling but so far I have not missed. I would however like to get it back on in the near future. Head gasket first though for me.

Herd are the sensor grounds @JAG1 was refering to.

By that I meant hire some one to do all the work. It will get very expensive unless you can handle a lot of the work your self.

The bolt broke and is still in the hole or worked loose a fell out. Hope you have a lot of spare cash especially if you farm it all out. If this is going to be your daily driver, work your way up slowly.

All my best hopes for you.

A lot us are riding in the stupid boat.

Most likely. Got mine right befor FM bought MOOG. I did put another MOOG track bar on a couple years back. Seems to be holding well so far at around 50k. We will see.

Mine has had the wanders since day one and I put a sreering brace on mine many years ago. The difference was minimal at most. 2 years ago it got damaged and I had to remove it. Could not really tell it was gone. So for me I don't think I will get another one. Might try the T steering at the next front end rebuild. Still riding on the MOOG stuff I put on it about 220k back.

The sneaky ones are already there.

You should have. Its not really a fuse it just makes the blink. Your hazard flasher is in there too. I beleive it is the black one. The silver one is for hazards IIRC.

I think I just got insulted but I'm not sure. I'll dwell on that a bit.

I run an AD in mine. I pull the fuel from the basket. No quarter tank issus what so ever. It will drain the tank dry. Mine was an in tank conversion so the basket is different from OE. Both my engine and pump return line go directly to the basket also. The quarter tank issue I have read about is usually from a draw straw outside the basket being installed improperly. By that I mean cut to short. This would allow air to be sucked in while sloshed in tank when fuel level was low. I think either way is fine as long as you do it right.

I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the pod my gauge is in just for that reason. Shortly after I installed mine I smelled diesel and just wiped my finger over the hole and sure enough it was wet. Caught it before it went any where. Fixed the leak and it has been dry ever since. You might have lost your blinker fuse in fuse box. There s 2 different kinds. One lets you know when the bulb is bad one does not. I have the one that does not. Kind of sucks to since I got a ticket for a burnt bulb in VA a few months back.

@Finlandese have you checked what your AC voltage is with the charge wire still in the OE position. Then you could change it and see if it makes a difference. If you dont want to cut the OE just put something in temporary and see if makes a difference.

This is when it gets over my head. I am more versed in structural than electrical.

Same switch in the drivers door. The knob turn back and forth for left and right.

There should be a small knock out in triangular part of the door panel that covers the mounting bolts. Mounts thru the hole. The defrost switch is in the HVAC control. You can find them on ebay and others or wrecking yards.

I think part of the reason to move was also to get it out of the harness that other sensor wire were running. That kind of stuff it a bit over my head. It has been a while since I read it also.

Does a 12v need that kind of an upgrade?

I did it all and then checked the voltage. So no testing in between. Have you read the article?

I would debate it but it would be a pretty short debate with my limited knowledge of electricity. @W-T, the man that wrote the mod would be better suited for the debate. But what @JAG1 states above is what I remember from his article. It did work on mine as far as lowering the ac noise.

The only tjing did to mine at the time was eliminate the connector and solder the wire together with the intention of replacing later. Later has not gotten hear yet. But even with that I saw an AC voltage drop of .035 to .01. Hope to adress mine while I have head off next week.

You shoud run a ground from the drivers negative to where you bolted the new ground splice to the gear case. You dont need the gray connector, just a aa piece of wire with ring trminals.

I thought thepassanger battery grounded to the block and the drivers battery grounded to the frame. At least that is what my memory is telling me from replacing the batter cables a while back.

You ought to move the the charge wire to the passanger battery and get it away from the other wiring.