dripley

My trucked chirped for the first several years of owner ship from new. Not unusual.

,Your lift pump should be working for the test. You only disconnect the VP and hot wire it then start the engine to see if it idles. That is all it will do in the hot wire test. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests. Here is some info from the BC website.

You can just hot wire the pump. Blue Chip Diesel has the instructions on their site. No need to hot wire the lift pump.

At initial key on you only get about 1 second of battery voltage to run the pump. If you bump the starter, no engine start, you will get about 20 seconds of battery voltage. So if you are checking power outside of those time frames you should not get battery voltage from the ECM. The only time you have constant power on that lead is while the engine is running.

If they are like the ones in the picture I beleive the center caps are made into wheel and not seperate.

Well just drove 150 miles back to SC and all was well, power is back. I can pass the pesky left lane riders and no more speeding up to 85 hoping to still be going 75 at the top of the long hills.

Never heard of needings spacers. The front and rear axles on the the 2nd gens are equal front and back or we would have to run spacers for the OE wheels.

My hydro boost was leaking PS fluid and going to ground.

The parking break is actually a small set of drum brakes within the brake rotor on the rear.

Any 2 or 3 injectors will work. 2 is difficult to open. I loosen mine 2 or three turns so the fuel does not spray every where.

Is the fass mounted on the block in place of the oe pump? If so it most likely is not wired to relay. I think the DDRP from FASS connects to the OE pigtail for the OE pump. For us to help you we need to know how the pump is connected. If you will find the the power connection for the pump and follow it, it will either go to a relay most likely on the firewall or straight to the wiring harness. To the wiring harnes is OE, to relay is after market and your relay could be bad or just a blown fuse. If the connection goes to the oe wiring harness it could be an ECM problem. Does your WTS light come on at key on? There are different things to check depending on what is on the truck. I do remember in your first post mentioning a relay clicking. That could run the Fass.

Well I have a victory on my hands. Replaced the MAP sensor and all is well. According to the snapon tool and the volt meter I had voltage into the sensor and 0 back out on the signal wire. So I gambled a bit from what I was seeing and bought a new sensor and I am back to normal. Found a made in the USA sensor at O'Reilys for a $110 and she running great again. The funny part was all the other parts stores that could get one all cost in the $190 range. Any way lets hope that solves the problem long term. And no @Dieselfuture, I did not get to look at the speed sensors. When I take this Snapon back to @Haggar he might be able to help me use it. Great tool just did not have enough time to figure it all out. But I want one!!!

We have not been that cold out my just wet. We had about 30" of rain from September to December. Then about 4 week break January and then it started raining again. I have never this much rain in one 6 moth period. We have jobs all over the SE that are 2 and 3 months behind schedule. It only takes 3 to 4 months to build one normal CFA.

I have the mods in my signature. Do slmost all of the work on truck. The only I have paid anyone to do in ten or more years was the last clutch replacement. I have pulled twice was not up to the third one. My gravel drive way sucks for doing that. Savec a lot of money that way and got a lot satisfaction out of it. Learned a lot also.

You would be better off with a single pump like an Air Dog or Fass system or even a mechanical pump than the 2. One might have failed and is not letting fuel by. I dont know anything about a Force fuel pump other than Googling it and seeing the appear to be for marine applications? How do you have them wired? I did have double set up myself with an intank pump run of of the oe pigtail from the ECM and the other wired to an oil pressure switch. Here is the code. Have you checked them lately? I re read your second post. FYI 2 pumps is not OE. The high pressure pump is the VP and there is only one lift pump from the factory that provides fuel to the VP. The wiring diagrams I posted will reflect that and not 2 pumps. Also low fuel pressure can kill even a new VP.

Not sure what you mean by pick up or force pump. The oe lift pump is on the side of the block. When mine went Dodge gave me the in tank pump, their aftermarket. It sucks worse than the oe. Thats when my dead pedal issues started. I finally went to a shop and the only thing they could find wrong was low pressure, 5 at idle and pretty much 0 at WOT. I added a booster pump on the frame rail and the dead peda issue went away. What are you running for a lift pump? And what fuel pressures are you seeing at idle and WOT? Have you checked for any DTC's? A failed VP will cause the engine not to run also.

Well, Bully my man.

here you go. The relay you here clicking is the one for the VP. If your fuel pump is stock there is no relay for it. The pig tail that connects to the fuel comes directly from the ECM. I have an aftermarket AD pump that came with a relay harness that the OE pigtail connects to. It acts as the trigger for the new relay. I am pretty sure the ECM does the same for the VP relay. As far as I know they are two different functions of the ECM. Only it is better to get the lift pump on a relay and the power from battery to keep the load off of the ECM. And welcome by the way.

Limp mode would allow you to drive though very slowly. As one who has gone thru similar codes with some dead pedal, though it never lasted more than a minute or two, and engine surging all with similar codes a new TPS never fixed it. the dead pedal I went thru was fixed with better fuel pressure. Mine was almost non existent. The surging went away while doing another repair. That all leads me to believe it was in the wiring somewhere. I know that is not much help, it is just my experience.

I guess they figured you couldn't read chineses so why include them. Good luck with it.

Salary or hourly? Did a very long week a good while back. I did not know how long it was until I signed wifes time card at 96 hours and I was there longer. Thats way to many hours and have not come close since nor will I do it again.

The building was mostly done on the inside, but the weather killed us on the outside. We cut 8 to 10 inches out of the lot and replaced with 4" of stone and about 650 yards of concrete. Almost an acre of concrete. One week of good weather and one week of iffy weather. I got 140 hours in after 16 days. Salary sucks some times. Other times not so much. CFA pretty much gave me a blank check to make it happen. Pretty accurate.

The reason for silence. 16 days between these pictures. I am burnt to a crisp.

I wish I could help because I thought I would have to do this one day and bought the radio shack swithches. When it did happen I found all I had to do was glue the oe switches back together. That was a year and a half ago and the oe's are still going strong.

Me too since I already replaced the front axle u joints. I hardly ever use the 4wd either. Figured thats why I still have the oe front drive shaft.