dripley

My bezel is about as strong as a potato chip. Last time I held it in my hand a nice half moon broke off it Almost time for another order to LMC Truck.

I agree. The grid heaters can detonate anything flammable in the intake system, all the way back to the source. That would be the rag in the intake. You could disconnect the grids and eliminate that possibility. Me, I just clamp off the fuel lines before and after the AD, pull the filters, fill the filters with fuel and install them and then crank the truck. Works great no priming necessary.

I have to agree that sucks. I would also agree with @AH64ID on talking to SBC, somethings not right with it.

I am pretty good at everything except when it's going to break next. I am also pretty good at knowing how many gallons I need by looking at the gauge. I also don't diet it bother me if i put a couple oz's to much or to little. Personally I have not seen any mpg gain from using 2 stroke. It does make a noticeable difference in engine noise, at least to Cumins owner but maybe not your friends that don't own one. As far as pumps go for me my OE lasted 75k, replaced under warraty by Dodge. That replacemet lasted another 142k. No two stroke in either, but the first one was on pre LED fuel. I am thinking FP might have killed that one. The second one ran on regular #2, LED, and ULSD. It also ran half its life on an in tank fuel pump. Again not being fed good fuel pressure. The third pump is at 208k. 2 stroke for 95% of its like and good pressure all of its life. God willing and the creeks don't rise it will be good for another 100k.

Was having a tough getting the camera to focus that. Just a light even coat on all of them.

While I think they look weird on the trucks I sure am jealous of the light they put out and the pattern.

Two stroke in my truck since 2009. Here is a pic of an rv275 with about 130k all on 2 stroke and a fair amount of BIO diesel at a 5% to 20% mix.

Forgot to send the below when I typed it. But yes if the voltage is low it can cause weird problems. I am thinking that is part of the problems i am having right now. Seems my batteries are a little weak and they are not quite 2 years old at the moment. When you call Cummins just give them the part on your existing ECM. They don't know nothing if you tell them it is on a Dodge. They work with part numbers and engine serial numbers. I hope they still sell them, the one on my truck has lasted almost as long as the new one that came on it. It was a reman even back then.

My recommendation is see if you can still get one thru Cummins. I hear folks say you can and can't get them there anymore. That's where mine came from. This was after going the internet rebuilding route. The first one did not work and they kept my core charge saying it was to far gone. Took 6 weeks to get another from them. It worked except for cruise. The truck had been down so long I had to use it. It lasted the better part 13 months and died. That is when I ended up getting one from Cummins. I did all of this to save money and spent three times what I should have. The internet one came from Auto Computer Exchange. I have posted this story here several times. It seems to me that many others here and elsewhere have had very similar experiences with other rebuilders. All I can say is do your research on the company and try and see if they honor their warranties. I would think you will need it. As far as what to ask, I could not tell you. The ECM fails in different ways. Some die slowly others like mine quickly. Mine acted up one day and then 36 hours later went beserk. P0606 is the failed ECM code. Mine never never showed that code until I put the first rebuild on. But the OE spit out other codes by the handfulls. @cajflynnan old member here posted in a thread a long time ago about a couple places he had success with and as far as I know he seems to be the only positive review I have ever read. I am pretty sure GoECM was one of them but do not remember the other. The post is in someone else's thread and in the archives here but I would not know how to find it. Stumbled across it a few months back while doing a google search. I wish I had something better for you than this but the ECM seems to be a bit mysterious.

Gates from rock auto here. Had to trim the upper to get the hose off the engine. A little long at the radiator. No big deal. Ran the OE's for near 350k.

I guess the point I was trying to make originally was that there are things beyond me as to what the real problem is. There were times that I disconnected my batteries to work on something entirely not associated with the surging or dead pedal just to have them gone after putting it back together. The only reason I messed with the map sensor was the odd time I got a MAP code. I had the original MAP sensor and reinstalled it. I broke it installing and put the other one back in. Whatever I messed with stopped the surging. Just wish I knew what it was I touched.

TEST the alternator first. Dont just run a buy a new. Oriely's, Advance, Auto zone, and many more will sell you a lifetime warranty one that could be putting out to much AC voltage. You have to have them test them before you walk out with it. Theirs are all remans and you dont know what comes out of the box. A lot them dont even know how to test them properly anyway.

The Isspro EV1's are good also. The are less expensive than the ev2's but do not have the bells and whistles that the others have. They are good reliable gauges however if your budget is small. I have the FP gauge for several years and added boost, EGT, and a Tranny temp about 2 years back. Very happy with them.

I second @Mopar1973Man's opinion. About 3 yrs back I was having some dead pedal issues and surging issues with APPS codes. Ended up replacing the APPS and the problem stayed with me. I never figured it out but thru messing around in the wiring The dead pedal went away and eventually recently the surging went while messing with the map sensor. The map issue came up after the dead pedal and surging went away. I have no explanation as to how this happened. But it did. As being a member of the electronically challenged I cant explain it. If I could ever get my truck to Mike's house maybe he could figure it out. A bad sensor, battery, alternator, broken ground and on and on will make these trucks do screwy things. Just wish I knew what I did to mine to move problem to the MAP sensor from the other issues.

There is a bracket used on the inside of the door to support the bigger mirror. You could remove the screw holding the door panel on right where the mirror is and kook behind it to see if they are there. Not sure whether You can install them without it. A lot of them come with mirrors but you can save about 20 bucks if you don't need them, IIRC.

1693 is just telling there is another code in the PCM. The key trick only reads both modules on the 02's and some 01's. Anything earlier and it only reads the ECM. Kind of hit and miss using the key trick.

The o ring is on the connector tube. You loosen the nut and then have to move the high pressure line over enough to pull out the tube. You will probably have to loosen a clamp or two to get some play in the line to do that. Then you can use a screw driver to pop out the tube. You might have to remove the intake horn for #2. I think it is in the way. None of this is hard to do just pricey when you pay someone 75 bucks an hour to do it.

Made the trip back to Maryland tonight. Absolutely no vibration what so ever at 70. Been dealing with that for the past few months even after a tire rotation and re balance. So while I hated buying the wheels there seems to be good return. On top of that after the vacuum pump reseal my oil leakage is reduced from a quart every 800 miles to one half a quart every 1100 miles best I can see.

Thanks IB for the education.

I have never looked at mine that close but it does appear something is amiss. They do appear to have pulled apart. i have seen a replacement plug that comes with a pig tail you can splice into the harness. Might take a while to figure where I saw it though. That might explain the communications problem.

It was not a total loss. The price was good and I did like them. Did manage to reroute the CCV away from the front of the engine. Got a feeling the front seal I put on a little while back is leaking. Figured I would try and eliminate the CCV as the culprit. Resealing the vacuum pump helped greatly. It appears that was the main source of leaking oil. I have also made a lot of toothpicks in my day, thats for sure.

Unfortunately getting a remanned ECM is difficult at best. I went thru a very bad time doing this back about 8 years ago and have seen many others with the same experience. I ended up with one from Cummins, still a reman, but it is still working. Wish I knew someone else I could recommend for an ECM. I spent about 7 weeks and 2 ECMs before the second one worked but with no cruise control. Quadzzilla could have a look at your tuner and maybe find the issue and fix it. A lot of this could be to much AC voltage from your alternator. Mike has a article about checking for here but I cannot seem to find. To much AC voltage will kill the electronics in these truck.

Started my day with my a trip to Discount Tire for a slow leaking tire and a vibration that was not sure was tire related. Got there and we get the tire of and find a cracked rim. Cracked all the way into the barrel of the rim. That is #4 or 5 of the stock rims I have had crack. I have been looking for some rims of late but have not found a good deal on any take offs. Now when I walked into DT they had a set rims that caught my eye. So I ended up with a new set of rims. Not exactly what I would have chosen with a little more time but look pretty good on truck. $450 with new lug nuts. 0 offset so they stick out a little more. Had that on my 96 with the AR wheels. They are rated for 3650# each so they will carry the load fine. So I am done with that one and get home to reroute the oil breather tube I have put off for so long. While doing that I knocked my channel locks down in between the radiator and the inter cooler. No biggie I have done this many, many times. Get my magnet and notice that now I have poked a hole in my radiator. Got that sealed up with some Aluma seal for now. Guess I will get another and replace it in the future. Did manage to reroute the CCV line though. What a day.

Almost bought the wife a good while back. But since she is only 4'10" tall I decided against it. She just could not see out of it. Of course I bought her a freaking Dakota and she couldn't see out if it either. There was not one corner on it she had not hit on something. No more new cars for her. Happy things are working out for you in the new endeavor and the vehicle.

The PCM does do the voltage regulating and it is temperature sensitive to what it has the alternator charge at. The warmer it is the lower the charge voltage is and the reverse for colder temps. Not sure how low I have seen mine go in the warmer weather. Mid 13's IIRC. Just as you I am a card holding member of the electrically challenged. There are a lot weird things that can happen due to electronics that can foul up how these truck run. The older they get the more they show themselves. I need a crash course that I will remember..