dripley

My AD installed using the existing return for the engine/vp return and the existing supply for the pump return. I then installed the included fitting for the new pickup line. I also got rid of the pump in the basket. The pickup on mine is only 3/8 where everything else was 1/2". Not sure why but other than loosing a ump motor it has worked just fine for past 7 years or so. As far as returning to the filler neck I believe that still works fine for many others that have them.

I just looked it up in the parts look tool for the 98 and 02 . The 98 shows both LD, y steering, and HD, T steering. The 02 shows only the LD y steering. So it would appear you could have it either way back then.

is it possible he ordered that way unknowingly? Might have been included with a certain package he picked. Like mine came with the dana 80 rear end as part of the tow package, but I did not know that when I picked it. I was a pretty naive buyer back then.

I am assuming your father bought it new then?

Must be why I have never seen it. I drain mine pretty good.

The thing I like is he has no tools. Hands of steel I suspect.

Are these natural solids to the oil and not harmful? I cant say I have ever seen it in any I have used, but I dont look into the bottom of every jug.

If reasonable care has been taken of it I would not be scared of it. With that said it would be up to you or a trusted mechanic to look it over very good. @Me78569 could be very right on having to drop 5 grand on it if some systems are worn down and need replacement.I have 421k on mine and would not be afraid to go any where in it with the RV. My engine is still very strong. But I am nearing a front end rebuild, VP has over 200k on it. still have the oe drive line and chasing a couple of oil leaks. I can do this work my self to make it economical but if you have hire someone to do them you can drop 5k real quick. I guess what I am saying is dont let the mileage scare you off if you are comfortable with looking it over, top to underside. Stick a code reader on it also and drive it. The $15,000 trucks can have the same hidden issues. I ought to add this caveat, It is a used truck and no matter how good you or anyone else is at checking out a vehicle hidden things might and will break. Some of it is a crap shoot.

The dana 80 is why I mentioned the camper package. As I understand it is part of that package. With out it you get the dana 70. The owner manual makes no distinction between the two on the load rating however.

I am currently pulling a 35' fifth wheel. I weighs right at 15k, My total weight is around 23K. That is 3k over the weight rating from Dodge. I move mine 4 maybe 5 times a year. Some times 200 miles and occasionally 1000+ miles. All depends on where I am working. Mine is camper package equipped as @JAG1 mentions above. The 02 3/4 and 1 ton manual trucks are both rated at 20k pounds combine weight. The dually will be more stable with the extra wheels but the 3/4 ton can haul the same weight unless the dually is equipped with 4.10 gears. Mine does it well and only a few times have I ever wished I had the dually. Even if a trailer brake was not required you would be foolish to not have one. The service brakes are not good enough to stop the truck and a heavy trailer.

If they undersold their dealers then nobody would buy them from the dealers. I believe they would rather sell thru the dealers. I found this to be true on other things as well thru the years.

Thanks for the explanation. The few times it has happened to me has been no fun and I am sure the shock to front end has taken its toll. It has tried to empty the pockets on my doors every time it has happened.

What does caster have to do with DW? I have only experienced DW when my tires were on there last leg. New tires, no more DW. That is only in the last 100k or last 2 sets of tires.

I will look into that.

I have of late noticed a little vibration in mine. I do mean little, you have stare at the gauge to see it. Pretty sure mine is the needle valve. I believe the seat in the valve is going on its way out. When tighten it it just seems the seat is hard. It is almost like on and off is it. Barely cracking it open is a bit more difficult than it used to be.

I replaced mine maybe 2 years ago. I swear they still looked fine but just decided to replace because of how long I had them and the 350k or so miles on them. I actually blew the off end of my stock radiator and left the old hoses on when I replaced it 4 years or so ago. I think they are indestructible. Of course that is not true but it seems that way.

I bled mine when I installed the gauge and have not since. The only time I saw any pressure difference was when I changed the pump after it failed. Lost about a 1 pound of pressure after installing the new pump. It has remained mostly stable like before.

I just let the lift pump fill up the line and attached it. You could do that again with the compression ring still on the tube. It should be good for more than one use.

They are annoying. I encounter a lot of them in my travels. They usually come with a photo and a fee. Nothing counts against your license. Just cost of doing business till you learn where they are.

I am the same old friend. I have downloaded one app in my life. It really changed the way the phone worked and I un installed it. Thats the last time I did that.

my Moog parts held up much better but i bought it all about 7 years ago.

Steering.

I have SGII and it works fairly good. But there are much better options out there for alot less money as @Mopar1973Man has posted above. I have used mine on other vehicles but never used the mileage feature. never felt the need for it

I have seen the pictures just hard to grasp what the change would do. Heard a lot of good things about it though and the cost is comparable to the Y steering. So I have not written it off as of yet. I do know that when I rebuilt my Y steering, with MOOG by the way, it was as good or better than the stock parts. Never saw anything bad about MOOG until I had replaced all of mine with MOOG.

I am like you in not understanding the benefits of Y vs T. I am convinced there must be some difference but the only way I could know is to swap it out. I might do just this in the near future we will see. For now at 420k I am on the stock Y steering and it has been good for the most. Mine is getting worn and we will see what happens. That being said they both replace pretty much in the same way. All of these parts are bolt off and bolt on. Getting them apart is tricky if you have never done it before but not that difficult. I went in for an alignment at near 220k, my first since buying it new in 01. The shop told me it cost $900 to replace just enough to do a proper alignment maybe 40% of the parts. I did not like that very much so I started looking for parts. I ended buying all the parts and some tools to replace every thing including all of the ball joints for the same $900. The only reason to replace the tie rods is if they are bent. I dont know how to tell you whether they are bent or not since new they are not all straight. I probably could have save some coin had I known at the time. Now with all of that being said, if you are seeing and feeling parts getting loose I would say do the whole thing, Y or T and the ball joints if they are worn. It is more money and time but was worth it for me to start all new and I knew my trucks history. Maybe you do not. I did my ball joints one saturday for on side and the other the next saturday. Then the tie rods the next weekend. I also took alot of beer breaks. You can do it all in one week end if you just barrell in and do it. I am not good at that. You will save money and be happy with the end results. Did my first rebuild at 60 years old and the next one I figure to be 66 so dont let it worry you. If I can do it anyone can as you dont mind getting dirty and turning a wrench.