dripley

Pex plumbing is not a bad product. The key to it is installing the fittings properly. That means the crimping tool and the person doing the crimping must be in proper codition. If the fittings are installed with a tool with worn out dies or misaaligne dies the connction will fail. And if the installer does not care about what he /she is doing you will have the same problem. That said, the only place I would want it is where it is accesable. My 5th wheel is plumbe with a plastice pipe with compression fittings. Even the accesable parts are hard to work on due to no slack to use the fittings easily.

Ther is another way to try and remove the hub assemblies and that is to loosen the 4 bolts a few turns but leave them in place. Take the socket and an extension and put it over one of the bolts. Have someone start the truck and slowly turn the wheel. wedge the socket and extesion on the bolt to the axle yoke. When it moves stop and pu it on another bolt and just keep working it out. I did read a post here that someone bent a tie rod end because theres was forzen on there that bad. So be easy with it. If that does not work get out the BFH and have at it. As far as the axle seals, never done it.

A needle valve will protect the sender from the pulses the vp puts out. This is how I have done mine. it is a mechanical gauge but you can attach yoursender after the needle valve.You just barely crack open the valve. Your pressure will rise slowly on the gauge, but that is what you are after. Read this to get an idea of wht I am talking about.http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/34-fuel-pressure-gauge-and-water-hammer-effects

Easy there Beaver. Any reason why I dont have permission to access the stroy off the long hair? It wonat let me in.

If yall look at the list I posted I have tried every brand yall have mentioned with basically the same results. over cooling. The one that is in now came from Car Quest and is made in the USA. I installed a new water pump 6 monts ago. coolant level is full. I have seen alot of other folks with this problem and I cant seem to find what the problem is. It is definately not the tstat. There is no way I have bought 7 bad tstats of differant brands. But if anyone has had the same problem and fixed it with something besides a tstat I am all ears.

I will be interested in what if anything they can find out. I have faith the problem can be remedied.

I am on my 7 tstat in 5 years with none of them giving me a good temp. Mine fluctuates between 160 and 180. I have had the following"2 from napa(one I believe turned out to be for an 03 cummins by the part # on it) Pretty sure it came from them. I was not trying to keep score then. 1 180 cummins which ran much colder2 stants from differant vendors1 from o'rielly's than ran hotter than the others but still fluctuated. it just went cold on me the other day1 from car quest. I just put this one in with the same results.I cant help but believe there is something else wrong, but have not been able to figure it out. I dont beieive for a minute it is the tstat. There is no way I bought that many and differant tstats with the same results for it to be a bad tstat. I have not seen anyone else here that has the problem other than you and me. I have seen other people with the same problems elsewher, but have yet seen anyone with a solution. So if you can find the answer it will be valuable info for alot of folks.Ther is something wrong somewhere, but Icant find it.

Better running under the sun than sitting under a tarp. That is the first dodge I have seen with an auxillary speedometer on the dash. Factory custom?

When you say fail, how do you mean fail? Is your temp fluctuating or just cold or just hot? The reason I ask is that I have been fighting tstats for quite a while. Makes no differance which brand I have tried.

The only dumb question is the one you dont ask. This is coming from someone who has asked lots of questions and will have many more to come.

Good way to rest the mind and the body. Just sit back and do nothing but enjoy the view.

You can not adjust the waste gate. It is set to open near 20psi. If your are an auto with a stock turbo you should have a HY35 and i beleive you would have put something on the waste gate to hold it closed longer or completely( j hook, turnbuckle or there is a spring operated one)I have never messed with an HY. If you have a manual tranny it should be a HX35. You can install boost elbow(pretty much lets pressure off of the wategate so it will open later) which will let the waste gate open later to build more boost pressure. I have not installed one of those either. My Banks system came with a new exhaust housing and waste gate set to open near 35 psi. The edge is probably getting its reading from the MAP sensor, my banks does as do many others. You can install a manual gauge. I take it you did not install the edge. The only thing I know about smog in Cali is what I have read here. You might flunk, I dont really know. I live in NC and no smog on the diesel there.

Did you replace the oe's with the helwig or was they put aon a truck with no sway bars originally? I have the oe sway bars, but only tow with a rth wheel. My 96 had no sway bar and was just a little squirley.

I dont know never used a "googeneck" before.:lmao2:I am sure you meant goose neck, but iam still laughing at that one. I dont know what a skeleton goose neck is and I would be afraid to tell someone to saw off a hitch with out seeing what we are talking about. I have only towed my rv's with a 5th wheel hitch and hauled some small const equipment on my receiver hitch(generators and such).

No, because I do not dry camp. I am always in an rv park. But if I did dry camp I would try to find one if I had to travel very far. Just dont want that much crap traveling with me if you know what i mean. The pun was intended.

What kind of pressure gauge do you have, mechanical or electric? How is it connected to the fuel system? Could be your gauge is toasted form VP pulses. Here is a quick read. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/34-fuel-pressure-gauge-and-water-hammer-effects When mine went it just pegged out at 30# and did not move until I cut the egine off.

When you test the intake for boost leaks ther will be no pressure on the wate gate. It is on the exhaust side and should get no pressure.

Sounds like its time to call AD.

I's say 40 is a bit to much. I know when I adjusted my ADII I seem to remember it adjusting backwards to the way I thought it shoul adjustt. Did you try adjusting the screw both ways? By the way the ADII adjusts like your raptor. You dont have to swap springs like the AD 100 and 150.

My 02 is rated for a GCW of 20k with the 6 speed. I believe the 5 speeds are the same. Autos of that year were only rated for 16k as I remember. Techniclly I am 2.5k over weight. The rear axle is rated for 6084#. I weighed on my last trip and the rear axle weight was 6080#'s according to the cat scale. The truck will handle the extra weight, stopping the load is my biggest concern. I seen alot folks here that pull more weight than I do, alot more often than me. That is another reason to keep your trailer brakes in great shape. Mine need some adjusting.I once hauled 6k in the bed. 2 cubes of brick. The truck road like a Cadilac. Other than that you would not have known they were in there. I have no idea how much weight was on the rear axle, but I am sure it was alot more than 6080#. I only did it out of nessecity and hope to never do that again.

The big question. What did that cost?

I am grossing 22.5k and this last trip I cut my pressure back to 70 on the rear and 65 on the front. I kept a close eye on them and the tires never heated up. They were just warm to the touch, nothing out of the ordinary. I have always driven with 80 psi in all four when towing until this last trip. I do wear the centers of my tires out before the outsides. One problem is remembering to lower the pressures after the trip. I am not good at that so it contributes to the wear.

I looked at them a while back and they did appeared to be a good product. I would question the 60k 70k out of them. That is all I can get out of a set of Michelens. Hopefully between you and others tryig them we can geta better idea of tread life and how they hold up to a heavy load.

On my sidewalls it says "Max load 3415 pounds at 80 psi". That means to safely carry 6830 pounds on that axle you should inflate to 80 psi. I am no where near that as the truck is drvien with out my trailer. Right now i am running 60 all the way around. Mike had a link to an air pressure calculation based on weight here a while back. If you reun 80 in them all the time youwill wear out the centers of the tires very quickly, not to mention how hard the tires will be.

Looking good, 98.