dripley

I saw the episode you are speaking of and they performed on automobiles and not a truck like ours. I do know that the compessor has to put some drag on the engine, but I would think it would be less noticable to the Cummins. I have never really notice any mileage chnge when I run mine, but have never tried a controlled test to see if that is the case though. So may maybe we can make them do a do over in one of our trucks.

If you put your selector to max air and turn the temp control to hot it will blow some kinda hot air. I dont know what if anything the ac does when you do this however. I am thinking the temp control overides the ac maybe? - - - Updated - - - If you put your selector to max air and turn the temp control to hot it will blow some kinda hot air. I dont know what if anything the ac does when you do this however. I am thinking the temp control overides the ac maybe?

Just thinking out loud here. It seems if My tranny(manual) is strong enough to withstand 600 lbs of torque from the engine That it would withstand the forces of the ebrake. I am thinking that the ebrake does not generate near that kind of load slowing the truck down. It does generate more back pressure when decelarating than I can generate with the turbo under throttle, but the waste gate opening stops me from going over 35psi. I just cant figure why you need a bigger input and stronger flex plate just for the ebrake. I know you have an auto and maybe that is part of the reason. Just seems if your tranny will handle the engine it should handle an ebrake just fine.If we keep talking enough one of them will straighten us out.

If you meant me Hex. no biggee. I have mlutiple tire marks on my back not from being thrown under the bus, but just walking right out in front of it.:lmao2:As I said earlier it was a shot in the dark since I have never had an auto with an ebrake. I guess what i dont understand is how the ebrake puts a heavier load on the the tranny than the engine. Thats why i could not see the need for stronger parts. It must have something to do with the reverse loading. That being said Mike and Pepsi know alot more about it than I. Maybe they can explain that.

I can imagine what my old man would say when I showed him that picture and tried to explain myself. I dont care how old I was, 19 or 59. WOW!!

I would be suprisided if you had to upgrade the input and flexplate. Your motor puts a whole lot more stress on those the the ebraek ever will. It is reverse loading but less loading maybe that makea differance.

I am kind of taking a shot in the dark, but it is my understanding to get the benifit of an e brake in an auto you need something to keep the TC locked up while it is in use. I am sure someone else will come along and straighten me out on that and explain it better.

I definately take a look at that radiator. Even with me plling 22.5k I have never seen the egt's, or engine temps you are seeing. Milage was similar when i run 70+ mph. I slowed down my last haul to 65 tops and with the new rv275's got 11.35 for milage. My 5th wheel stands 12'8". This is all thru mostly foot hill territory and not flat lands.

Thats not much of a sleepover. Gald you are ok.

In instances thru the years we have had attach a board to the wall studs and then attach the grab bars to that. If you are putting one in the shower you need somthing that will work better than wood though. Maybe a piece of 1/4" aluminum flat stock. Drill and tap some holes for machine screws to attach the grab bar and then bolt the flat stock to the wall.

Short off cold weather operation and the gauge(sender maybe, I did not see it mentioned)being bad, the other items all lean towards over heat conditions and not over cooling, I have orderee another temp sensor to see if it is that. Maybe a wiring problem. Temps were in the low 90 here yesterday and I noticed my fan came on a few times that I was not expecting. Maybe normal with the heat. I dont remeber seeing anything in the FSM that addressed an overcooling situation. I also have another speedo at the house and I think Ill plug it in when I get back home and see if that makes a differance.

I have run the 180 and the 190 cummins with the wild swings , though mine are low and not high.

I saw athread about that not to long ago. I am glad I did not have the mess with that earlier set up on the rotors.

Nice looking set up.

I cant say as I have ever heard of that stuff before. I did a little reading on it also. Does anyone have any Mopar anti freez to see if it contains this stuff. Sodium silicate that is. One article I read said it did.

I am happy to see you got the hubs out, I struggled on my first. The second was easier than the first. Any time you can get a partoff with out having to use the BFH is a good day. My front seals are still dry.

I t only takes 30 minutes to do the reset and no $$$$.

I believe that would be Ricky Ricardo,s car instead of Ricardo Montalbon's.

Got any fine corinthian leather in that thing? oops, I believe that came in the Cordova.

Mybe he can get some Obamacare for his nose burn.

I have refilled this thing 2 or 3 differant ways with the same results. I just change the tstat and the radiator is full to the cap and the block was full to the tstat. The upper hose appeared to be full also.

I think the easiest solution is to have a truck with no computer in it like mine. The only way to calculate it is with pencil and paper. This way is mostly flwaless, but i dont ever seem to be able to refill at the same station, same pump, same direction as recomended. just my .I still run the tire size that came on the truck, 265 75r 16's.

Pex plumbing is not a bad product. The key to it is installing the fittings properly. That means the crimping tool and the person doing the crimping must be in proper codition. If the fittings are installed with a tool with worn out dies or misaaligne dies the connction will fail. And if the installer does not care about what he /she is doing you will have the same problem. That said, the only place I would want it is where it is accesable. My 5th wheel is plumbe with a plastice pipe with compression fittings. Even the accesable parts are hard to work on due to no slack to use the fittings easily.

Ther is another way to try and remove the hub assemblies and that is to loosen the 4 bolts a few turns but leave them in place. Take the socket and an extension and put it over one of the bolts. Have someone start the truck and slowly turn the wheel. wedge the socket and extesion on the bolt to the axle yoke. When it moves stop and pu it on another bolt and just keep working it out. I did read a post here that someone bent a tie rod end because theres was forzen on there that bad. So be easy with it. If that does not work get out the BFH and have at it. As far as the axle seals, never done it.

A needle valve will protect the sender from the pulses the vp puts out. This is how I have done mine. it is a mechanical gauge but you can attach yoursender after the needle valve.You just barely crack open the valve. Your pressure will rise slowly on the gauge, but that is what you are after. Read this to get an idea of wht I am talking about.http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/34-fuel-pressure-gauge-and-water-hammer-effects