dripley

I ran B-5 for 7 weeks when I was in OK. I had no office so I had to idle my engine too much to see what it did for milage. I never noticed any differance in performance though.

You dont need the oe pump on the truck. Just be sure to leave the bracket that holds the pump. It covers up a hole in the block.

Are you talking about they lighter colored plugs not being needed? Thats what mine is connected with.

The job is not that hard to do. As long as the connector tubes are damaged you should not have to replace them, but definately replace the orings on them. I did have leak issues when I was done. That was because I tightend the injectors prior to tightening the lines to the connector tubes. I had to loosen everything and tighten the lines on the tubes and then tighten the injectors. Everything is high and dry now. As far as what kind i would defer to the others here on what would work best with your truck especially since it is an auto. I might some beefing up if much power thru it. What do you do with your truck, DD, alot of towiing, etc.

Air dog, Raptor, or Fass are all good pumps with good warranties. A 100 gph pump is enought for what you want to do. Alot of folks, including me, go bigger, but it is not 100% neccasary. I chose mine because of the filtration, adjustable pressure regulator, and it came with a kit to replace the in tank pump with. The flow is way over kill for my rig.

The oe lift pumps ar notorious for bein weak. Weak pressure will slowly destroy the VP. Since you are looking to increase your power the demand on the pump will be greater accelarating the damage. Her is a good read on the subjec of fuel pressure. http://articles.mopar1973man .com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps here something to read about the oe ones. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/32-stock-lift-pumps --- Update to the previous post... here is something on the oe pumps http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/32-stock-lift-pumps

Gauges and lift pump first, especially with a new VP. Are you still running an oe lift pump?Welcome, by the way. If you would go to the user cp and fill out your signature with your truck info it will be there in any post for all to see what you have. Makes thing easier.

Forgot about the apps. Easy remedy though. Get everything hooked back, turn the switch on and slowly depress the throttle to the floor and slowly release. Turn the switch off and you are done.

Good to hear. I just saw part of program on the Big Salmon River in Idaho. Beautiful country. Your pictures confirm it.

Hope it stays in the river bed and does not find the quest house.

leave the pump tap wire. Just tape up the end so it does not accidently short to any thing and plug in the stock harnesses. When it is all hooked stock try to clear the codes again. What kind of scanner are you using?

I dont know a thing about an auto tranny, but the other items you want to put on are not that difficult. It is bolt on, no welding unless you want to weld your exhaust. Dropping the fuel tank is no big deal or you can lift the bed, some folks think that is easier. Ther are plenty of people here to ask questions. You can download install instructions for what you want to install and see if you think you can handle it. Like John says it is not that difficult.

AM had free shipping which made them a little cheaper. same warranty i believe. Lets hope I dont have to test it.

Seems I remeber seeing them somewhere, but since I was looking to upgrade I didnt pay any attention as to where. Maybe Texas CTD will stumble across some. Ill do some more back tracking.

Running on central time here. But I did use your article.

It sounds like your sender had probably been hammered to death by the pulses the VP creates while pumping, here is a good explanation. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/34-fuel-pressure-gauge-and-water-hammer-effects. I had a glowshift for my first gauge and it did pretty much the same thing. Its not so much the gauge or sender fault, there just needs to be some thing there to isolate both from the pulses.

just thought it was me and my illiterate computer that could not connect.

Cheap is good. I have an ECM for a paper weight from a rebuilder. got it cheap but it sure was expensive.

A very good reason why I did not suggest where to hook them.

sound like your fuel pressure problem is solved, now you need to get your codes read and see what they are pointing to.

I dont know. You would have to call Geno's and find out. I would shop around some, I am sure I have seen them cheaper somewhere for the right year model. Can't seem to figue out where. Here is a brand new pair with brackets http://www.am-autoparts.com/2001/Dodge/Ram-2500-Truck/Mirrors/AM-17587788/501775.html You might even find a set in a salvage yard for a better deal. Either way, shop a little and see what you can find. My old ones are not going any where for the next couple months and they have your name on them unless you change your mind. The way I am figuring; $25 for shipping, $30 for the brackets, and $40 for a new mirror glass, you are already at $95 and still have one cracked mirror. Add that $40 and your are at $135. the new set is only 163.65. $30 more and you got a new set. I'm thinking that is alot of money at 15 and it is, shoot thats alot of money to me these days. Take some time and see whats best to do for you. The mirrors i have are yours anytime.

Maybe you ought to check the instructions again. They sound like the the main power to me, but I dont know the Edge product enough to tell you where to put them. I dont want no responsiblity for blowing it up.

I have the glow shift triple pod. Its about the only thing good that came out of the deal. Theirs is the cheapest I ever found.

If you want them they are yours for whatever it cost to send them to you. Just bear in mind the passenger side looks just like the picture I posted earlier in the thread. The drivers side has one verical crack in it from the corner of the wide angle to the bottom of the mirror. If you dont already have them intalled on your truck you will need the brackets on the inside of the door. http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Mirrors/Dodge/Ram-2500-Truck/1ABMK00038/508547/2001 You might be able to find them cheaper some where, I dont know. I would not think it would cost more than $20 or 25 bucks to send them. Just let me know if you want them.

I would hightly advise you keep the factory filter. The fuel most definately needs filtering. Abig line kit from vulcan would get you opened up from there to the VP. No filter will trash the vp and the injectors.