dripley

I noticed they were the same, thats why I said i would close my eyes and pick. I do appreciate both of you pointing me toward them, that is the best price I have seen for them. I dont need the brackets since I already have tow mirrors. Think I will order them today.

I have looked aseveral of thowe type, but i want something permanly mounted. But who knows if the right one premade comes along, I might change my mind.

Nice work Russ. I have got to build me a center island for the kitchen real soon. Narrow enough at the bottom for when the slide outs slide in, but big enough at the top for sme extra counter space.

Thats differant. but I dont see how you would get a good reading there even if its possible. tThe return line pressure if much at all is not what you want to read. You really need to read your pressure before it goes into the pump and after all filtration.

Well lets ask this question then. When you say that you rev it and it drops to 5 psi then builds to 10 psi are you just free reving it in the drive way? IF so go out and hit WOT under load and see what the pressure is. Chance are you are going to see near 0.It is possible the VP will run quite a few miles more. Mine lasted for 70k after lift pump (oe) failure and survived the intank pump for a while before it started acting up. I put a booster pump on it that helped but some damage was already done. It held up for the last 40k of the 70 before I replace it. My thought is the lift is crap but the vp might hold together for good while longer, it is hard to say. I was not saying do them both at once. ther is hope for the vp. I guess I just dont trust the oe lift pumps especially the in tank ones.

When you connect your AD to the VP you have to remove the test port to install the fitting. no more test port, unless I am missing something.

I see remans for $120. I know they are not new but darn. I bought a new one for mine about 3.5 years ago for $100.

$995 for a starter? That is ubelieveable. No wonder the warranty co wants to digest that one.Sorry thats only $955. My mistake. Ill take 2.

You can see how your pressure is whe you get it running and if you need to raise the pressure, change out the spring. I have heard of folks strectching the spring to get even higher or shimming it with washers. Thats on ereason I went with the ADII, it comes with an adjutment screw. But the springs are working fine for alot of folks. Glad it seems to be going well except for the weather.

Thanks Rick. I dant decide wihch one to pick, Your choice or Dereks's. Think Ill just close my eyes and point. Anything is better than what I have been looking thru for the past while. Had my glass man make me one when I broke the original. He did a beautiful job. I then proceded to stick it over the broken one and used silicone. Dont know why i did it, I learned along time ago you cant use silicone on a mirror, it just eats up the reflective backing.

I can just feel the love.

not sure I can match that, much less top it.

Thanks Derek, I do have the tow mirrors and thats the best price I have seen new on new for so far.

My truck will pull codes with the key trick but it has not always pulled all the codes. several times in the past I have found more with a scanner. Not always but sometimes. Enough to make me doubt what I am seeing.

there are some a couple of threads on it here and a bunch over on the the other place. From what i gather it is not just simple swap of the trannys and pedals. Drive shaft maybe and the electronics definately( ecm and or pcm dont know wich)I am really not sure what all you have to do. I love my stick and if I wanted an auto I think I would buy one with it in it. Just my . others are much more knowlegeable than I.

not oily is a good sign. Maybe just something left over from all the flushing.

is it oily at all?

My wifes 2000 dakota had the same adjustment swithch mine needs so apparently they were used in many dodge vehicles. Not worried about the heat swithch right now. I have got to scrounge up the money for the mirrors. just bought me some new nerf bars and a tailgate to replace the one I backed into a tree with while it was down. http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Mirrors/Dodge/Ram-2500-Truck/1AMRP00121/380857/2001 This is the best deal I have found on any so far. Anybody ever bought from them before?

I think the only reason I dont have issues with pulling all the fuel out of my basket is both return lines feeding fuel to it. The intank basket on mine is alot differant than your oe one. not as much area for the fuel to come in due to the intank pump design.Mike is definately right about the small line you will connect to and it might cause a larger drop in pressure when you get on it. Just something to watch out for when its all installed.

Just so you know after you get all of it installed that when you just turn the key on the lift pump should not run for more than a couple seconds. Mine only bumps for maybe half a second. If you bunp the starter it wll run for about 25 seconds then shut down.

The only time I have ever heard my pump run is when the engine is off. I atribute that to 2 things, one my ears, 2 not sure on this one but I think it is the Cummins. Ifeel your pain on the monery,VP ECM ADII alternator water pump fornt wheel bearings. I did get to drive it the first 8 years pretty much trouble free though and itsi running great now. I did have a injector problem about 4 months ago and put a new set of rv275's in. Less than $400 and got more power and mpg. You ought to keep that one in the back of your mind.

The screens will let in alot of fuel. 100gph? i dont know. I would install what you have coming and see what happens. Since you will be useing the oe basket and connections you dont need to drop the tank. If performance is not what hoped for, or you have the quarter tank issue then buy the draw straw and install it. Meanwhile carry some spare fuel just in case. You should know pretty quick how well it is going to work.

My truck had the intank pump. My ADII came with a kit to replace the that pump. Part of the kit modified the basket for a bigger pick up line and the return line from the pump dumps in the basket and not the filler neck. I am not saying this is the best set up, there are to things about it I am not sure of. one is the pickup is 2 pieces clamped together, the other is when the tank is low I am mainly running on return fuel I would think. Not really sure if that is bad for anything but I am sure that fuel is warmer than what i would be pulling from the tank.After my install I rode around with a 5 gallon can of fuel just incase mine develoded the 1/4 tank problem. but after running mine almost bone dry(34 or 35 gallon refill) I quit worrying about it.Two thing I like about Mikes draw straw is the slots he has cut in it instead of cutting at an angle and how close he has it to the bottomof the tank. Seems to me if you cut it on an angle and to steep the opening is even higher of the bottom of the tank makin it easier to suck air in. Especially if you are driving like you stole it.

Whichever seal forntor rear, which you did say front seal, if the surface the seal rests on is not damaged I dont see that you would need the repair sleeve. The surface the seal is rubbing is going to be very shiney, just dont mistake that for damage.

I am going to assume the truck has the oe lift pump on it. If so an after market lift pump would be what you need to get the pressure up and keep it up. You need to see what kind of lift pump you have. When you bump the starter can you identify the location of you r pump? If it is the oe it is either going to be on the block just behind the filter canister. IF it is a dodge after market it is going to be in the tank. Neither is good and are notorius for weak pressure. Fass and Air Dog both also make a block mounted pump, they should be easily identified by their logos. Another thing you could do for us is to go to the user cp and fill out your signature with what ever you know about your truck,if its stock thats fine, just put that in there. everyone can see what you have any time you post.Congrats on the new truck, sounds like got a very low milage one.When you say it want rev above 2400, do you mean you can put the pedal to the floor and it goes the 2400 and no further?