dripley

They looked like they were for new assembly, because there was no need for them when i took it apart. the rotor was very solidly attached untill I got the prybar.

This is how I have mine installed. Learned it here. I have had no trouble with this install. It goes straight to a mechanical gauge. Nothing but a needle valve.I do recomend using a differant tubing. What I have now is nylon. Polyon tubing is better and I have some to replace it with, but have not found the time to replace it yet.

That is a nice job on the bracket. I would have to agree on the pressure being low though.

Well the star wheels backed off quite easily. I beat on the hub some they finally came off. My e brake had been going away steadily over the past 3 years, just figured they were wearing out. But I did figure that out too. It is hard to be a brake shoe when something keeps oiling you. I guess my rears seals are going away. Never saw anything leaking. What was present inside the brake drum looked more like grease than rear end fluid, but the smell is undeniably rear end dope. Any body got a good right up on changing the seals?Is ther any need to replace those little clips that were on the wheel studs?

From what I have read here and my wife's Dakota they vary. I found if I reset the Dakota after every fill up the end result was fairly close. Hers is all stock. If you change tire size that will throw them off. If you want really accurate milage like to the .10 or even the 1.0, the overhead just aint that close.

I am going to replace my rear brake pads, rotors and e brake. question is how to remove the rear rotors. Do you have to remove the rear axle and bearings? I see in a photo about adjusting the ebrake that Mikes rear rotor is removed but the axle is still in place. Is mine just stuck or does the axle have to come out? It is a Dana 80 rear.

I never gave the holes much thought being mine has none. I dont remember the intructions telling me to drill any. The intructions on AD's sight call for them, but the picture shows an old style fuel basket with the holes in it and not the in tank basket. They are quite differant. The only time mine has been fuel starved is when i ran it out of fuel:doh:. I guess it could have been a problem but has not caused any in mine.

My sheild did not rust away, my buddy helping me just rippied it off and destroyed it thinking i got a new one with the bearing assembly. Never could fine just the dust shield, even at the dealer.

WOT is wide open throttle. A critical fuel pressure measurement. 10 psi min but 14 psi is much better. You dont have to have a CEL lit to have trouble codes. A fuel pressure gauge is something you need to invest in, especially if you are running a stock lift pump.And welcome to the family, by the way.

Happy you got it running.

I am not a CR man, but have you checked for trouble codes?

I guess the lower rpm is due to the dbl OD AH was tlking about. My wifes dakota has it. 4th is .74 or .75 to one and 5th is .63 or .64 to one. It cruises ok but want go anywhere unless you put your foot in it,

I dont know that my vp had a new check valve, one was installed in the pump and i never gave it any thought. Maybe thats why mine cost $1700.

I'd say you would be fairly accurate on the weight. It was an emergency. hope not to do it again. --- Update to the previous post... I did not see the under 2k at 70mph with a 4.10. Auto or Manual?

Good luck. i'll be intersted in how it turns out.

You can just take it out and put a new one in. No need for anything special.

Shoot after reading all of this maybe mine is off. The only thing I have to campare it to is digital speedo's in cars that I pass or pass me. Now thats precision.

265 75r 16's. Pirelli LR E. Just a street tread. I believe they were alittle overloaded too.

If you have a source for those little dust sheilds for the inside of the bearing I would love to know that. As iI remeber the dealer sold them with the steering knuckle and not seperately. could be wrong on the knuckle, but it did not come seperately and it cst alot of $$$.

I would not mind buying a pcm and instlling it to make sure it works and just putting it back. An ECM is another deal though they are quite spendy. I would be willing to if I knew I could pull it out later and it would still work.

About 6 weeks ago I had to get brick for my mason. I picked up 2 cubes, 1080 brick. That is about 6k pounds and put it all in the bed. The truck went to the overloads and stopped. She sat dead level, no sqautting. That is a 4 leaf pack with overload. Youe could definately feel the load over bumps. Much heavier than the RV. I really dont want todo that much. But it wasnice to know I can do it in a pinch.

Try to do it around 7500. I did not start that way when i bought it but changed over about 6 years ago. I dont tow alot but heavy when i do. The truck runs stronger than when new. Of cousre I have added a few things, they are in the sig.

Have you checked your return fuel lines for leaks, especially the one on the back of the head? Mine was leaking and causing hard starts. Mostly when I was facing uphill.

Not trying to make your job any harder, like I said your assembly is more involved than mine was. the rotors jusr slip on. If it make you feel any better I left one of mine of too. the worst thing i left off was one of the support brakets for my speed sensor wires. The wire ended up rubbing on the wheel and now my abs light blinks occasionally. Just something else to fix. I dont know a good way to wash out the tubes. When i did mine i never gave it much thought. I did however take care not to drag the splined end across the bottom of the tube because i figured there would be dirt there. I just put them back in and they are leak free as far as I know a year later. You might try the hose thing after you get them in there. I dont think i would use high pressure tough, just flood them with lowe pressure water and let the crap float out. I dont that you can polish out the groove in your axle with out shrinking the diameter of the axle in that area and that might cause more problems. Someone else might know better than me. When i had mine out I never paid any attention to them. Sometimes ignorance is bliss. But like i said before, 1 year later and no problems. I could not find those inner dust cover at a junk yard and the dealer was the only place I could find them, but you could not buy just them. You had to buy them with another part and it was quite pricey. I never went o a junk yard and looked for them, just clled them on the phone.

When I bought my 02 there was a 4k differance in the combined weight from an auto to a manual tranny. The auto were rated at 16k and the manuals were rated at 20k. I supposed you are comparing auto to auto and manual to manual. I have not looked at one lately to even know what they are rated at now. I have the 6080# rated axle, tow a fifth wheel and weigh in at just under 23k. I know that exceeds the weight limit but it does a good job. I am by no means encouraging you to do this, that is a choice that is up to you. I also only move mine maybe 4k mile a year, but it has always been up to the task.