dripley

The ECM will shut the pump down as soon as the engine stops running in case of an accident. Handy if you are knocked unconscious.

Got the dripley from AOL when I bought my first computer back in 2000. Just stayed with me. As far as Peckley goes you pecker head, NO. Darn I just called my old buddy@JAG1 a pecker head again. I just loose control some times.

Sounds like it is wired to a key on hot. It should not run at just key on ecept for brief prime. By that I mean less than second. That is with the ECM providing control to relay that gets the power off of the ECM. I am thinking the AD you have should have come with that set up when new. You will have to trace the wires back and see how it is wired in. An alternator putting out to much AC voltage can fry the electronics also. Lost mine back in 2006, never knew what fried it. Who checked your ECM out and deemed it unrepairable?

I rebuilt mine soley with parts off of RA. Compressor, lines, drier, and condenser. It has been holding up fine for the past 2 years. Got the evaporator from RA 6 years ago maybe.

You could do either. But if your horn works just swap them and see what happens. Quick and simple.

Have you checked for any trouble codes?

This is it. With the beautiful truck parked in front. Thats them place. You too can own your t shirt for 20 bucks in the store.

A beautiful sky tonight at the newly constructed Jim'N Nicks Bar-B-Q in Marietta Ga. I built something besides a chicken house and am about to go another. The first time in 21 years with this company I get build 2 of something in a row besides a CFA.

Turning into quite the project.

Mine used the long sweep 90 on the filter and the hard 90 on the the VP. Got it tapped for a shrader valve for a test gauge. I cut.a tapped coupling about midway in the line for a gauge. I dont remember seeing anything like you have with the BSP on it. Did mine about 9 years ago though.

I just used a set out of a 6.7 in mine while replaceing the head gasket. They also have a hole drilled thru them to allow more oil thru the trunion. Mine oe were gauled ip somewhat.

Yep. Figured I would tag @Mopar1973Man and get his input.

@Mopar1973Man had to have his repaired a couple years back by a company in Idaho, Module Masters I believe it was. But I do not remember the symptoms.

At least my spare is a good one now.

Mine was surging so I tried the cheap one. It fixxed the surging so I bought another Timbo. It went back to surging with the new one. Turned out to be a wiring issue. Sure thought I was smart to buy the cheap one.

I have one of those my self. It works but with a constant 222 code.

Ignition not off long enough maybe?

Have you checked for any trouble codes?

Is your alternator putting out? Your gauge is only reading battery voltage and not charge voltage.

Mine never stuck again after putting anti sieze on them. Just unbolt them and take them off. Maybe a couple smacks with a dead blow at the most.

Been nice had Dodge knew about anti sieze. I gave every thing up front a good coat of anti sieze the first time I got mine apart. Had to use a small thermo nuclear device to get them off.

Yes I do. Bought my 96 from them 20+ years ago. Bought my sparevtire winch replacement there for less than anywhere else at the time. Nothing wtong with place just s typical dealer. They will give me the on line price if I walk in.

Hard to say on the pump, maye run maybe not. It is a mechanical failure in the timing piston. But you have enough electrical codes to make me think it could be ok. You want know untill you get your electrical issues squared away. At least I would not replace it until then. Its 1000 bucks in the box. Get the batteries checked. If one is bad replace them both. The alternator can be contributing to this also with too much stray AC voltage. There is a test you can do with a good volt meter for AC voltage. Look in the articles section to find the article. I cant link it on this tablet for some reason. As far as battery cables go I made my own after seeing the prices people wanted for good cables. Just a matter of what you are comfortable doing or spending. Just dont cheap out on pre made ones.

First off it sounds like you have some electrical issues to deal. Get your batteries checked out first. Clean all the connections, theynshould read the same while the engine running. The 1690 code has nothing to do with the waste gate, it is your cam sensor. That sensor, if failing, can cause drivabilty issues alone. I see also you are getting both low and high volt codes, this could be the ECM. The 216 is usually the end of the VP also But as I mentioned first, you most likely have some electrical issues that should be adressed first before throwing expensive parts at the truck. Batteries could be shot or maybe the alternator. Clean up all of those connections and the connections on the other ends of the cables also. There sre slso alot grounds to deal with. The cables might even shot. I am not the electrical genius here by any means but some one more learned will come along and help. If you will go to the articles section under 2nd gen 24v and click on OBDII error codes there is a list of the trouble codes. Dis connecting the batteries does do anything to the ECM. The memory is stored there and part of the ECM. It was just coincidence with the other issues you are seeing.

go for the GMO's, grown mean for offense.