dripley

Just did a real quick search yesterday. One reason I go with DT is the number of locations. Makes dealing with road hazard easier for me since I always seem to be somewhere else with problems when I buy local. Though a lady hit me in Iowa, no DT there, and I did not bring the tire home. DT replaced for free anyway on my word.

Oh yeah, my friend.

There we go with another pecker joke. Ahh so, wood peckah.

My lowers required a cup cut to a specific angle to use for removal

Just remeber the lx will read the codes and the diagnostics are listed here. It is not just going to spit out a magic bullet. But it is a very useful device to help find the problem and can be used on many vehicles. Why are you selling?

You might be right today. Just did a quick search on the cooper tire I run my truck and discount tire says they do not offer a comprable 17" tire, 265 70r 17, in the ATP that I have run for many years. Did not check any where else. Wanted to compare price and weight rating. My current ones are rated for 3415 at 80 psi. And as I said before before they were more last time I checked. Dont know about today.

Seemed to be when I was thinking about swaping to them a good many years back. Plus the 16's had higher weight ratings on them and are bit cheaper. About $25 a tire.

a couple of other folks here have used the spicers with bad results. I would look elsewhere.

Check for trouble codes. sounds could mean anything.

That is what I will get when I change over. If @dave110 can do it I can. Not very electronically savy my self.

The later 01's will work, the earlier 01's only read one computer and not both.

When I was thinking under I was thinking between the shroud and the radiator. I do have one on the cross that has the fog lights in it but had no idea of all the other things it has in it. @Tylerhud, you could see it any of the things in that cable are working. If they are it still may be aftermarket. All the wires one color is what made me think that.

The main reasons I kept my 16's were price and bigger selection of tires. Doesn take me long to burn thru a set.

I have thru 2 sets of oe aluminum rims. 5 or 6 of them cracked. My ball joints passed saftey early this year 1/16" mabe a bit more up and down. As far as brand thats a pretty wide open topic. I put Moog on mine 8 or 9 years ago. Nobody has anything good to say about Moog anymore but mine have held up well. @Dieselfuture, whats the weight rating on those 4th gen wheels and tires?

Ouch. It is more labor than anything but the parts are maybe $100 retail.

Mine does not have a wiring harness under the fan shroud. Sounds after market or modifacation to me. What color are the wires?

We would would hope in the amazing world of chickens that most folks do. But nothing is perfect.

There are wiring diagrams including the grounds in the articles section here. Sorry but I cant link them on my tablet.

If the drive pressur is high enough to overcome the holding pressure of the acutator yes it will open the waste gate. But for testing purposes all you need to do is presurize the actuator. I would think something is engineered into the system to allow for the drive pressure pushing against the waste gate.

Several folks here are using them including @Mopar1973Man. Going to get one myself one day. Still using my old scan gauge II for now. It reads codes cel or no cel, as long as there are stored codes. If you have no stored codes that would be why the AZ code reader is picking nothing up.

You can ask that question of he seller on line. I have never heard of one that would not read a stored code, cel or no cel. Of course I have led a sheltered life and cannot offer personal garauntee.

The exhaust pressure does drive the compressor to make the boost pressure. My wastemgate is connected to a hose that is connected to compressor side only. So in my small mind it is the fresh air that opens the waste gate, unless I am missing something. The only time I have ever done mine was by grabbing the shaft while everything was fully reassembled.

Welcome wettvette. We have all been rescued here a few times.

You can pressure thru the little hose that opens it with compressed air. I have mine a few times over the years. Should work whether you use the hose or pressurise the whole system. Fresh air and not exhaust gas pressure operates the waste gate. Sounds like yours is rusted shut. Could be the actuator ormthe pivot point in the exhaust housing. You could try grabbing the shaft on the actuator and see if you can move it. If it ,ovesmwork it back forth and you ,ight be able free it up.

Stock waste gate opens near 20 psi. My after market Banks opens near 32.