dripley

Are they in oe style housings or something aftermarket? How were they on your eyes when standing in ftont of your truck? Theh look good on the house.

It is a good bit to read but the mod is fairly simple.

I can identify with that. I had 3 and 11:30 came to quick most times. It's Christmas the picks can wait. Enjoy the family.

You cant help but think there is something to share to help protect them from further damage. Seems they would have an idea of what caused the failure by seeing the damage. Seems the ECM is to remain mystery as well as what causes the issues other than "an electrical short".

I garauntee you folks are still reading. Simple eledtrical problems drive me crazy. I woild be lost having to dig this deep into it. I lost an ECM back in 2009. The worst time I ever had trying to fix something, but fortunately a new ECM fixed the problem. Never knew why the OE failed.

Same here.

FWIW I have a new set of clear lense housings along with 1 set of each, led, hella, and oe bulbs all to experiment with. I do believe you can get better light without blinding everyone. Finding the right combo might take a bit. I personally am very tired of folks just plugging new bulbs and blinding people just so they can see better. Sounds like @LorenS might have found one. But. Thats a hint Loren.

Trust me I keep everything I take off for spares just in case. I think if I ever sold this truck and piled all the spare parts for it out for the buyer I would get another grand or helluva big laugh.

To all you hooligans that make up this place. May all of your trucks and the ownersgo on forever. And on a tradtional note, may the Lords blessings be on you all.

The construction of the boots is very much like the OE. I just dont know what the OE re enforcement is made of. For most I think they are fine. If your running twins and high boost numbers and racing maybe not. But for most of us here I cant see why they would not hold up just fine. Of course if I was spending the money on twins and alot power, a couple more hundred on boots would make since econimically. But for someone like me that might see 40 psi and 450hp, in my dreams anyway, these would be fine. I dont need Mishimoto on the boot to get that. I did get to compare the clamps to my OE ones and they are of lesser quality than the OE. I would not be afraid to use them but would keep an eye on them. The bands are the same gauge and width. The bolts dont have the small bend that the OE does. The stamped metal where the bolt passes thru is a thinner gauge than OE. And the piece that has the turned up edge the band slides on is a seperate piece on the OE vs the new being made into the band itself. This is just my observation of the product. Will it hold as well as the OE, only time will tell. I do plan on using them but will keep an eye on them. All in all, for the money I am not dissapointed for now. I should add that have nothing against Mishimoto, I am sure they make fine products. I just feel that they are well above anything I would need on my truck to get to where I would like to be.

On top those i see this one filling up on the way home. I like the bio fuel but it would be nice to know what you are getting.

Maybe they have both. Isn't the yellow universal?

I am with @Me78569 on this. Dont become the guy blinding everyone just because you can see better. Had someone in a pickup get behind me the other night and his lights were lighting up the road a foot in front of his bumber and the tops of the trees 60' in the air. I have never seen headlights that bright, had to be HID's or LED's. I had to turn all my mirrors away from me just to drive. He was blinding me from behind. Then he got pissed when I flipped him off when I turned down my street. OK off the soap box now. Mike's headlights do have the projectors. They are not just the bulbs in the normal head light housings, clear or fluted.

Here is what I am seeing more of out my way. Some read 20% and a good many say "may contain". I used to seethem marked B5 and B20 like say and for a while the pumps did not have to be labled at all with 5% or less. I have no problem running the blended fuel but it would nice to know what you are getting. The labeling is to vague. The 2 stations I found in Tennessee were labeled very similar except for the biomass used insted of biodiesel. My mileage went up with the ones labeled bio mass. I do not remember the mix percentage. I got 22.5 mpg at 75 mph on the biomass compare to unlabled fuel or biodiesel labeled pumps. I get 19.5 mpg normally, unless its 20% biodiesel. I get 18.5 to 19 with that mix. This is what I saw for the most part several years back. Even more vague. This one is even from Tennessee, but not from the stations I got the biomass.

I just lost my VP after 270k. The first sign it gave was hard starts. Since you just installed a rebuilt VP it could be you have a leak somewhere in the fuel lines, high pressure or return lines. A small leak in either will let the fuel drain back to the tank and air in. The results are hard starts. That is what I thought was my problem, but was not to be. It would be a good idea to look all of those connections and see if any are wet. Follow the return line from the VP back to behind the fuel filter canister and you will see a tee. The other line goes up to the back of the head. You need a mirror to see that one. That one seems to get over looked. Maybe this will help with one problem anyway. As far as the 222 code. The cheap tps I bought on ebay did the same thing. Clear the code and bam right back at engine start. Truck ran fine though. I despise electrical gremlins.

How is your fuel pressure?

Is there power going to and out of the breaker? Is there power getting to the plug? My manual seat truck has a plug the manual seats plug into. Figure mine is for lighting the seat belt light on the dash. Never messed with power seats to know about them. The wiring might not be there depending on the trim level of the 2 trucks.

Good to hear. Looks nice under your hood.

The stuff I get from walmart is green. Same as the stuff as @IBMobile linked.

Lets be sure we are on the same page. Is your pedal completely dead as in not working at all? The dead pedal I experienced was a random drop to idle while driving down the highway with no throttle response. The throttle would come back after a short span or an engine restart.

I have put the Timbo apps on my truck 3 or four times and never once used a volt meter on it. Crank the truck turn the screw until the idle ramps up then back it off a quarter turn or so. The dead pedal I have dealt with in the past was wiring or fuel pressure related. Even surging throttle I went thru was not the apps but a bad 5v signal wire.

Just got home and had a quick look at the product. The boots are near a quarter inch thick with 5 layers of reinforcing and look pretty much like the oe ones. The band clamps look ok, but I will have to compare them to the stockers still on the truck. More stamped metal on there than Ilike but the stockers might be that way too. We will see.

Almost 9 years on my AD with a standard relay with ecm trigger. Might be time to look elsewhere. What is your ac voltage off the alternator? WT's mod will lower the stray voltage but if it is excessive it cant get rid of it all.

@Mopar1973Man has a good write up in there too on just removing the box without taking the whole interior apart. Thats what I used when I replaced the dash pad and rebuilt the the box. Nothing wrong with the one you found just a good bit more involved.

Thats what the blend door is for. Exactly how it does it is a bit beyond me. Others could explain it much better. In the articles section under 2nd gen 24v, cab interior there is an article on removing the case with some photos of the HVAC box split open that might help. Sorry but my tablet will not let me link it. Sounds like your problem is in the hvac box and not internal to the heater core. But flushing is easy to try.