dripley

Here is my OE. 2 core. The cheap one one has about the same mileage on it. 2 core also. This is an 02, maybe the early models have 3, I dont know. The replacement wotks just like the OE.

Mine went from .035 to .01. I was impressed.

I have bought one Cummins and 1 Mopar in 18 years and they have not worked any better than anything else. Stant, Wagner, Gates or any of the many others.

You are welcome sir.

@IBMobile. Good info right there. Pretty much what I have seenfor the past aeveral years of running B5 to B20. Maybe a 1 mpg drop on the B20. The truck loves it. I wonder how much easier the fuel gels between the 2? In my 18 years of ownership my fuel has never gelled. Now I dont see some of the temps some you guys see though as a regular diet.

Advance Auto, Auto Zone. They are made with Aluminun cores and plastic ends. Just like the OE. Are they equal? Dont know that for sure but it has held up fine.

Is the tapered hole wallowed out?

I guess I looked at differently in my little brain. I looked toward reflectors that appeared they would direct the light forward. I did not spend much on the bulbs since I was experimenting. I did read some info on the placement of the chips making a difference but that was after I had bought the ones I have. So far so good. The turn signal are another matter. The one I got have no reflector in them. I wish they did.

My housings ard very similar except for turn signals, no reflector in them, missed that when I bought them. Plus they only cost $65, led headlights $35, turn signal bulbs $15. I went cheap because I was not sure they were going to work out. They seem good for now but the real test will be on the road oncoming traffic. If I am blinding people they will come out.

You can by them right now for that if your'e not picky. Went this same route with a cheap one from AA or AZ 6 years or so ago and its still working fine. Only one I could find on a Sunday when OE let go on the interstate.

I was wondering. It is not odd for me to ride around at 7500 to 8000 at times.

If the wood peckers would quit pecking holes in the wires..............

How heavy is the truck?

Glad its all still eorking good there, DW.

I was hitting 20 psi on mine with a 3" section of intake gasket blown out. But 30 to 32 used to be my norm. Fixed that but another has arisen and I need to pressure test again. Thought I found it with the inter cooler boot. My first fuel pressure gauge was a GS. Did not last long. It was priced right though.

the cheap I got on ebay did the same thing. The Timbo cured it but my surging came back. Mine was a wiring problem on the 5v supply from a crappy splice caused by the owner.

That is a good sign. Just how high does your gauge go? Mine would peg at 60psi and there is no way I could ever get there with my set up. But if yours only goes to 20 I would not trust it.

I just replaced the intercooler boot on mine with the white horse racing one. Also replaced the one from the straight pipe to the intake horn due to the one I had on it being a bit short. The fit fine and the clamps all seemed to work just fine. If anything odd happens I'll post it up.

I pressure test is what you need. Pressurize the intake at the turbo and start spraying all the connections and intake with some soapy water. I blew the intake gasket on mine not long ago. Still have one somewhere and a pressure test is in order for me. Thought I found it yesterday on the boot @JAG1 mentioned, but it had not gone completely thru.

I dont completely disagree with you by any means. Just not sure I want to tackle building them myself so I thought I would give this a try in the interim . For now these do not seem to reach out much further, 50 feet or so, but they do light the area up much better that the stock housings with Halogens, even the higher wattage Hella's. For now the biggest draw back to me is the brightness of the lights. I know if I crest a hill with someone coming they are going to be blinded momentarily due to the brightness. Something I struggle with with on coming traffic in similar situations. Might even try a warmer bulb to combat that. I dont seem to have that issue with the more yellow light coming at me. I see more and more of the brighter white lights every month it seems. And the scatter on half of them is out of control. A lot of those are in fluted lenses too on older vehicles. I would not mind having projectors one day but now is not that time for me. I think all of us here try to build a better wagon and I aint seen 45 in a long time. Thats where a lot of the mods we do came from. I was pleasantly surprised as to how focused the beam was with the new housings. I gambled on these with the reflector only in curved part. Saw several with the same shape but the reflector was also continued onto the flat part in front on below the bulb. That to me would have reflected alot of light up in my little brain. I think @LorenS's HID's might work better in the same style. They do appear to have some scatter that mine did not. Loren you ought to get a couple pictures looking at the headlights and see how they look and then try driving at your truck in smaller vehicle to see what others see. Going to give that a try tonight. As far as melting snow and ice, I dont know. Fortunately I do not have to deal with that on any regular basis. It is an issue for a lot you though.

Wood pecker.

If your MAP sensor was bad you would know it and should have tripped the CEL. Your truck will be gutless with a failed MAP sensor, very noticeable. A boost fooler just intercepts the signal from the MAP sensor and sends a signal to the ECM that so it never sees over 20 psi so it does not set a an overboost code. Tuners have this built into them for the same reason. Funny @JAG1 one mentions the drivers side boot. I just replaced mine yesterday for that very reason. Had to bend part of the fender away as he describes. Mine had penetrated the boot about 20%. But where he lost me is doing a vacuum test on the intake. I have done pressure test by making an adapter to fit the turbo then pressurizing the system to check for leaks. The system should not be under vacuum when running since the engine is turbo charged. Even at idle the turbo puts out a fair amount air. I need to do mine this weekend because I have a boost leak somewhere.

Big tires maybe?

No vacuum assist on hydroboost. The power steering pump provides the assist. Check you power steering fluid level. Have you checked for trouble codes?

Lets stir the pot a bit more. I just put some new clear housings on and stuck a set led's in them. Only the back rounded portion of the housing has a reflector. The marker has no reflector. Did not notice that until I bought them. I installed a 3 sided white/amber bulb with a small projector in the front. First test was 15' from this wall. This is about 45' ftom the same wall. The lot has a little slope away from the building once you in the parking spaces that might account for the slight rise in the light. Not sure. Only place I could try on in the short ride I took. 20' behind a parked car. The yield sign is about 150' away. Lights aimed a bit right of center by the looks. Re aimed them but no picture. 70' feet away standing up. 70' away kneeling. I was reasonably level to 6" below the truck where I was standing in both of these pics. This was about 30' away with just the markers on and me standing. They are scattering light pretty good on their own even with no reflectors. Going swap some plain amber in tomorrow. Theses are the bulbs I used. Going to have some visitors tomorrow and jump in the wifes Saturn SL and see how they look from there. Was nog lighting up anyones interior and no one flipped their lights at me on the test dtive, but a lot want do it even when I know they have to be blinded when I am behind them and the lights are blinding me. They dont seem to scattering any noticable light high, maybe some down low. I'll tey and find a taller structure some wher tomorrow night and do a Saturn test also. I cant help but think the reflector shape helps with this but I am no lighting engineer. We will see what happens tomorrow.