dripley

The 320 on an 02 would be the cam sensor. If it is failing intermittently it will drop tach signal and can stop the engine from running. The 521 is a funny one in that unless you have a rare 02 you oil pressure sensor is nothing but a switch and not a sensor. When you start the engine and the switch sees 6 lbs of pressure it signals the ECM to take over and bases oil pressure on RPM, and ECT sensor readings. It is quite convincing in how it works. I bought my 02 in Oct of 2001 and this is what it came with. The way to tell is to look at your sensor/switch harness connector. If it has 3 wires it is a sensor, if it has 1 wire it is a switch. I assume you have checked your oil pressure with a separate gauge to be sure? The oil pumps in these Cummins are pretty bullet proof.

What year is your truck and how are you checking for codes?

You need retrieve the trouble codes. You are bound to have some. The CEL can and will turn itself off on occasion but the code should remain.

Me thinks it was the one in the bottom of your computer. Chickens will peck anything.

Maybe you should send it again and we can track it to the blackhole.

1 failure at 75k. New pump courtesy of Dodge. No lift pump. Did not know squat about yhe fuel system back then. I was content with the no cost to me part. 1 lift pump failure at 150k. Received the in tank pump at my cost, $1000. Thats when I realized it would not run with a failed lift pump. I do not what fuel pressures I was seeing at this time either. So began my education. About 175k started having bucking and dead pedal issues and found a low pressure issue, 5 at idle 0 at WOT. Fixed that with a booster pump and the issue cleared up but figured from what I had learned the VP had taken damage. At 217k I had a major failure that was over my head. Replced the 2nd VP at this time. Turned out to be the ECM instead. Dont how long the 2nd VP might have lasted. It saw idle pressure around 13 psi at idle on a test gauge. Now at 485k with the third pump for 268k on it. Added the AD not long after the pump install. It has seen 14+ psi almost all its life with 2 stroke oil. I have also run a good bit bio blend thru mine, 5% to 20%. The truck likes it. Though the higher blend at 20% will knock off about 1 mpg. I do believe its good for the VP but have no proof.

I am on 8+ years of AD quick disconnects and no issues. As far as the FASS gelling any worse I would not know.

While I do prescribe to the 14 to 20 psi, I have seen several folks here who do not and seem to get by just fine. Many years back, after I became the proud owner of an in tank pump, I started having bucking and dead pedal issues. I took it to a reputable shop where I was working at the time and the only thing they could find was low fuel pressure. 5 at idle and pretty much 0 at WOT. I added a booster pump with the in tank one and the issues went away. So for that reason I will stick with the 14 to 20 for my peace of mind. I know the VP will pull its own fuel. Mine current pump has done that very thing thru 2 lift pump failures. Not sure how long I drove it after loosing pressure, but I had to purposely drive it both times on a limited basis till the new pump arrived.

I am sure they can help you. The kit that came with mine deleted the pump and used the basket for the pick up and all the return lines. Different back then as to today. you might also want to ask them about the warranty on the pump since you wont have the original sales receipt.

some of that would depend on your scanner. I have a scan gauge II that shows 29 psi at idle and 32 at WOT. As far as more boost you will need a boost elbow to delay opening of the waste gate to make more boost. It bleeds pressure off of the waste gate so it opens later. The boost fooler takes care of the electronics but the waste gate is mechanical.

Pretty much looks like the in tank pump basket. The basket will need to be modified. I would think that FASS would sell such a kit. My AD 165 came with one back 9 years ago and they still sell them.The engine return line goes to the basket also so it is not just the pump return you need to consider.

Here is a good look at the intank pump fuel basket. Just bump the starter, no engine start, and see where your pump noise comes from. It should run for 20 seconds or so.

That does appear to me to be an oe fuel basket without the intank pump and the line would connect to the oe fuel pick up. Do you have an in tank pump?

You sure that is not to go to the stock pick up in a non intank pump set up? Cant believe FASS wants you to pull fuel thru another pump. Your truck did not come stock with the pump in the tank.

can you imagine what the Cummins would sound like going down the road with those on.

You had me going pretty good there. I did notice a drop in power and more smoke than normal. Thats when I noticed my boost would not go over 20 psi. 30 plus was pretty normal before. So I figured it had to be a boost leak. Took it for a test spin on the surface streets and was about 25 psi but it was on secondary roads so I did not push hard. Much less smoke also, cleared up fairly quick. Still have some haze though. If my ears were better I could of heard that leak. 18 years in the Cummins has taken their toll, my line of work does not help either.

Been driving around for the past couple months or more with a boost leak. Got a couple weeks off between and dug into it. Put my test cap on and got the soapy water out. Found a good size leak on the upper clamp on the i take horn. No problem just tightened the clamp up. Start hosing the other and nothing. Started spraying the intake cover on the head and when the soapy water hit around #4 it looked like Lawrence Welk has having a bubble party. What I hoped was going to be a 1 hour fix went out the window. I look down between the head and the plate on the intake and I can see the gasket pushed out. Took everything off and find this. Looks like the gasket seperated. Which after getting it off it appears thats what happened. The bolts in that area were tight but not as tight as I feel I left them after the head gasket install. So maybe install error on my part. Though as I remember the gasket appeared fairly thick when I put it on. I was able to seperate it somewhat but it still appeared to be made that way. This gasket was from the Cummins gasket set I bought for the HG replacement several months back. Did not have the Cummins name on the gasket. Lucky for me I have a extra one from a Fel Pro gasket set I bought a good while back. I pull it out and it is the same brand as the one from the Cummins get. Though it is dark tan and not red. It is also not quite as thick as the Cummins one though. They both have the name inter face on them. So I will keep my fingers crossed this one holds.

485k and still on the oe plug.

My pickup is in the basket. It was the kit that came with my AD to replace the in tank pump, the pump and engine return both dump in the basket. I do wonder about fuel temp but I have no way to monitor mine. I cant say this is better or worse than any other set up but it has served me well. I put it in about 240k miles back and have 268k miles on this VP. Mine is filtered like @Mopar1973Man is with the AD and oe filters. I do run a good bit of bio blend thru mine, I do believe this helps the VP.

I can understand that. I am not much of a metal fabricator. I put the lmc dash in mine 7 years ago and it still looks good. Hoping it out lasts me. The door panel I put in looks like mine did about 200k miles so hopefully it will do the same. Probably ought to buy a spare. Time will tell.

The one on the back of the head is bolt with 2 sealing washers. Not sure what you mean by band. The rubber gets hard with time and will loose there ability to seal. If their age is in question replacing them would be a good idea. You dont have to replace the tee just the grommets inside of it. It is still a pain due to its location.

Same here, local building supply. There have been a very few that needed a slightly different size. Bigger or smaller I dont remember.

I would definitely do them all. There is a good article here on a simple way to do it.

If the problem did not exist until right after the AD install, I would recheckall connections on the new fuel system. You would see fuel if you over tightened the high pressure lines and damage them. I woul also check your return lines from the VP and the back of the head. The washers will go bad on the head and you wont see it unless its bad enough to hit the ground. The tee they join to back behind the filter canister is another problem area. Both can cause loss of prime. Try parking it nose down and see if the problem persists.

LMC truck offers the dash and steering column cover. I could most likely find the parts if you are interested in. Not sure how far back though. Just picked a door panel for the 02 and he had a big pile of them. Going to vist him pretty soon.