kzimmer

I'm going to stop following this before I say something I might regret. Stay safe everyone.

I don't think there is much evidence at the moment for the virus living on food. However, if you're ordering food, or bringing in groceries for that matter, I think it's not a bad idea to wipe all the containers/bags down with a properly mixed water/bleach solution, transfer the food into your own clean containers, and microwave the food before you eat it, which should kill anything that may have stayed on the food. That's above and beyond, but in my opinion it's worth the headache.

Could be the injectors contributing to it, and not just the pop pressure. I'm having a low rpm low load miss that I'm thinking is my injectors as well. 3 nozzles were replaced under warranty and I had them put on brand new aftermarket bodies. I'm guessing one of the other 3 died. I've had two different budget nozzle sets from different companies, both had a short life. How many miles do you have on yours? I know it's not the same issue, but it's something to think about.

@Reaper22 I also have the TCS 4.2 lever and have been experiencing a 2-3 bind in certain situations, no doubt due to a poorly calibrated valve body. When I set my band, I used the factory procedure. Today I decided to loosen the front band adjustment about half a turn, and it made a huge difference. It is now pretty much gone. I locked the trans in second gear and tried to make it slip, just in case the band was too loose, but it seems to hold as good as before. Of course a properly calibrated valve body is best, but this worked for me, and will hopefully hold up strong until I feel it appropriate to spend money on a valve body. Your experience may vary, be careful.

I would personally be comfortable with those pressures.

I work for a steel mill and we were deemed an essential service. A lot of people here don't get it though. Trying to keep my distance from people, and all the extra precautions have been exhausting. Good news is the pot store close to my house was deemed essential too.

I'll agree with that. I had a local shop build my valve body before doing my own research. I thought I would put my faith in a local "professional". I won't get into details but my valve body is a POS. If I every have disposable income again I'll have it dealt with.

This is frustrating. Yes, there's a chance we're all going to get it. The idea is to delay it as long as possible as to ease some of the stress on the healthcare system. Hopefully this isn't just delaying the inevitable, and buys enough time for the world to deal with this.

That's all fine and good if that's what you're looking for. But, again, there's a different school of though (right or wrong) that says a strengthened pan may contribute to a cracked case if it's struck by an object, because the pan won't "give way" if that makes sense. I guess it depends on your goals, and if your case needs strengthening. It's also possible that a case may have hairline cracks go undetected, and may fail later on if a strengthened pan is not used. Who knows. As long as people get what they want, all is well. Me personally? I just wanted cooler oil and more of it.

Fair enough. But wouldn't you agree that these pans are mostly marketed based on their ability to hold extra oil and provide extra cooling? I don't see a surplus of factory sized pans that are produced for the sole purpose of stiffening the case. I've never heard of anyone shopping for a pan for this reason alone. I also recognize that you have much more experience on the subject. I just wouldn't brand bash a fully functional, reasonably priced product without a better reason; for example, if it didn't do what it was advertised to do. Which it does.

My Derale pan was an excellent purchase, and I immediately saw cooler temps when reading from the pan. I've read some arguments that using a stiffer pan can lead to damage to the case if the pan is hit by an object. I'd rather be replacing a pan than cracking a case. The purpose of the pan is not to be a structural aid; it's to provide a larger reserve of cooler oil. The extra structural support might be beneficial, but in my opinion, just a side effect that isn't necessary.

I think worst case scenario you might need some valve body work. I'd love to get Dynamic to work mine over, I had a local shop do mine and they did a terrible job. Gave it to me with the pressure turned down way too far among a lot of other issues. I turned the pressure up and made it work. If I was you I'd do some reading on pressure adjustments and increase it until you're happy, and go from there. I have a bit of a 2nd to 3rd bind at the moment as well. I ended up tightening up the TV cable a little bit and it helped a little, but I'm probably going to loosen the 2nd gear band half a turn first to see if it helps. I'm using the TCS Products kit as well.

I had to google it to be sure lol, It sounds like the 4 speed might have come in around 91.5?

It was a 4 speed (727 with an OD housing added on) but didn't have lockup until 1994 when it was renamed to the A518/46RH. At least not in the diesels.

Right. So... No lockup in 1st gens.

No lockup in a 1st gen.

It won't be a legal tow, even if the gross combined weight isn't exceeded. Rear axle weight rating will be way over from the pin weight. That's way too much weight. Loaded up the trailer probably weighs 11k. That EcoBoost will run hot and have a short life with some of the worst towing fuel economy you've ever seen.

That makes sense, when the TC is unlocked and the truck is working hard, it's going to heat up no matter what. However, because you have more oil in your pan, and in my case there is cooling tubes and drawing oil from lower down, the oil feeding your trans will stay cooler, for longer. How much longer I guess would depend on a bunch of variables.

This is one area where the Quadzilla Adrenaline shines. You get more useable pedal travel and, to some extent, this problem almost doesn't matter.

Mine didn't come with one and it's fine without. I bought mine separately later on from Derale. In theory it should pick up cooler oil from deeper in the pan. Plus, if you're a little low on the dip stick for some reason, it'll still pick up oil.

I went through the same thing a few years ago, and went with a Derale pan with cooling fins. Temp sensor in the pan. In these winter temps it won't even register a temperature on the highway (Quad shows 100°F minimum)

That sounds reasonable to me. A lot of vehicles run closer to coolant temperature, especially newer ones. And yours is still 33°F cooler than your thermostat temp assuming a 190 stat.

Trouble is, if you place a spacer on the temperature sensor, the heat from the battery won't properly transfer to the sensor and you may overcharge the batteries. Also, your posts might touch your hood.

Interesting. Maybe I should double check that my apps is getting to 100%.

The injector horsepower number represents how much horsepower worth of fuel over stock. So 100 hp injectors will flow enough extra fuel to support 100hp over stock, without tuning. You'll still need more air. You must, at a minimum, use a boost fooler, or the ECM will defuel.