kzimmer

I've run two different sumps, two different trucks. Never any leaks. Nothing can ever get close to it to rip it off, pretty much impossible, it's nowhere near the lowest point on the truck. Follow the instructions and there is no risk. I have the regular Fass sump on this truck currently with the plumbing out the sump itself. I've never even began to regret it. As a bonus, if I ever need to, I can run my tank a lot lower if for some reason I can't get to a gas station. No 1/4 tank issues, and my frame mounted Walbro lift pump doesn't need to do any extra work to suck from the tank. I had to drain my tank a couple weeks ago after suspicion that I had some bad fuel. I ran the tank until the lyometer said I had "0 km to empty". Then drove another 10 km in the city, and made it home. Draining the tank was stupid easy, since when I did the plumbing I put in a tee and a ball valve. Took like 15 minutes including a filter change. The thing that blew my mind, was even after I ran the tank this low, I still had 5 gallons of fuel come out! It's good to know just in case I ever need to run low again. Oh, btw, if you ever need to replace the seals, which I haven't, they are just O-Rings. Nothing special.

It blows my mind that your oil temp could be colder than coolant temp. I'm not sure that's possible. Perhaps the high idle box was fooling coolant temp, and you weren't actually at 160, just displaying 160.

Is there a documented experiment to support this? Just curious. I like learning facts like this, but only if they're substantiated.

I tried a 200 a couple years ago and holy F you're right, it was hot as hell. I'm back to a 180 and still a satisfactory amount of heat in -35°C on the highway. Just enough.

I don't have time to check drawings but I believe the door switch is ground triggered. If you have a broken wire for the door switch that is shorting to ground (copper touching anything metal), your dome light may be on because the door switch circuit is triggered. I don't know if the switch is in the door or on the cab, but either way.

Was it doing this before you replaced the APPS?

I try to avoid red. Me and red don't get along. Lol

You know, I was thinking about that today. I think I remember throwing some blue loctite on there.

I'm running that aftermarket ford pulley from eBay, 1mm offset difference. No issues with alignment. However, the pulley nut did not catch many threads, to the point where I was barely comfortable using it. It's been fine, but I know some people won't be thrilled about that.

I've been running that alternator for a few months, no issues.

It happens around -30°C (-22°F) for me. I just completely drained my tank and changed fuel filters of paranoia that it was caused by bad fuel or water or something. Luckily it's warmed up to -6°C so I get a break from winter breaking things.

I agree with @dripley. Whoever said it was too much pressure is not familiar with the VP44 requirements, and is probably thinking of the VE or P pumps. For the record, a few times this winter my Fass regulator froze up and my injection pump was delivered a full 35 psi at the inlet. No known permanent damage, however mine will NOT start in this condition.

Pull alternator fuse and see if the problem goes away. Possible AC noise from worn out alternator.

If that's true, it sounds like a cold solder joint, which would be a manufacturing defect in either the Bluetooth module, or inside the adrenaline module itself. Not a definite diagnosis, but it's a possibility.

I recently put in a 160amp alternator from a 2001 Durango. It's a hairpin stator which is supposed to be a better design. Just had to change the pulley, and I used an aftermarket smaller pulley from a ferd super duty to spin it faster. Been great so far. Still need to do an AC voltage test though.

PCM? Wiring between PCM and Trans? Wire connector on trans? Other than that I'd say the converter itself. This makes me think it's the converter.

Yep, I'll second that, I've used a factory 200° stat for a 6.7 in my truck before.

That's very strange. I had a couple Stant thermostats that were pretty wild. Never gates though. I'm running a gates 180 right now and it's smooth as hell even below -25°c ambient temp. Even initial opening is a less than +/- 10°F swing. When stabilized, less than +/- 5°F swing.

I like the idea of one that shows ambient temperature at the same time though. Are you more or less just looking for spot checks that a laser dot would be good for, or like an IR camera that you can capture images of? I know you can spend crazy amounts of money on IR cameras, tens of thousands, from brands like Fluke and FLIR. But I'm sure there are knock off brands more suitable to have at home that wouldn't destroy the wallet.

I am by no means an expert, I've used a few at work, but it might depend on the surface material you are checking temperature on, and the temperature range of accuracy you are looking for. Maybe even distance away from the object. Some of the better IR devices allow you to select an emissivity number to adjust based on the material.

Cummins ECM, Dodge PCM.

I like this quote. That's why, for the most part, I live in ignorance. I try to only learn what I want to learn, and inform myself on what I feel is important. I don't trust much of the information on the internet, or from mainstream media sources. I don't like being told what I need to know, or being told what I need to be concerned about or afraid of.

If memory serves, I used 15/16, and I think it was a little too big. 24mm would probably still work I imagine. The alternator I have now is from a 2001 Durango so I'm not even sure haha.

Yes. A few feet of wire added can't hurt anything. The only thing that can hurt it is a bad splice/termination or improper shielding causing noise. Agreed. It's an interesting thought. Yep. Again, like I said, because the engine is supplied as a package. Just because it's designed that way doesn't mean it's the best way for longevity. For anyone? Ever? There is no possible way that you could ever know this. This is a made-up statistic. Absolutely. That's why I mentioned it; you would want absolute confidence in your splices and good wiring practice. Without that, it's risky.

I think it's a great idea. The only reason it is where it is, is because Cummins supplied the motor as a running package. No one in their right mind would design it like that on purpose as a whole. The motor is its own entity, it's brain comes attached to it. The only thing I'd be concerned about is the quality of splices and shielding on any analog sensor wiring, and communication bus wiring. If you don't have confidence in that part, I wouldn't do it. If you do, I say go for it.