kzimmer

My 315's (or 305's, I forget) destroy snow. Sheets of ice not so much, but having a set of tires engineered for those conditions help. I'm running Goodyear Duratacs and they are great for Canadian Winters in the prairies. If I had to do it again I'd just run two sets, one for summer one for winter. People think the extra cost isn't worth it, but if you're planning on keeping your vehicle for long enough to burn through two sets of tires, then to me it's a no brainer.

Heavy throttle? Light throttle? High rpm? Low rpm? Inside the Iquad app, assuming you are using Android, what is the date code on the far-right selectable gauge?

Cool, thank you.

Is the update released?

Makes sense, thank you for your response. I previously (a couple years ago) opened up the gate hole a little bit on the HX35 and drilled through the other side, and I'm using a non-separated spacer before the HX35. There's not much else I can do other than taking the turbo off again and widening the holes even more, requiring a bigger puck. I'll report back here when I get the spring gate installed. I'm slightly embarrassed to say that I just overpaid for one from DAP made by Crazy Carl instead of making my own. Not a lot of time to do that kind of fabricating and testing right now.

I think I'm going to switch to an adjustable spring gate on the HX35 so it operates entirely on exhaust drive pressure. I'm curious on how much it might improve adjustability.

Well, rather than waiting for this to be fixed, I bought a new Android head unit with a newer version of Android. This is still a problem for other people, I just couldn't wait for a fix anymore.

Alright... So I got my drive pressure gauge working. My drive pressure was like 80 psi with primary boost around 20 psi and 50 psi overall, for a pressure ratio of 1.6:1. A little too high for my liking. EGT around 1250°F. That was with no wiretap. Loosened my little eBay boost controller (spring loaded check valve in line with boost reference hose to HX35 wastegate actuator) just about as loose as it would go. Where I'm sitting now, with about 600μs of wiretap, (1200 dividing into two levels), is about 60 psi overall, 30psi from the primary, 85 psi drive pressure, and EGT around 1460°F. So my PR only reduced to about 1.4:1, and my exhaust temp is obviously heating up a little. I'm not sure where to go from here. On one hand, it makes sense that the EGT is going up because I'm opening the secondary's wastegate earlier. On the other hand, one would expect EGT to drop a little when reducing drive pressure. I'm guessing the exhaust housing in this HT60 isn't sized properly. I don't know what it is and I have no way to find out. Doesn't matter anyway, I have what I have. My question is, what's better/worse: 1250° EGT with high-ish drive pressure at WOT, or 1450° with slightly lower drive pressure? Edit: Did another "after adjustment" run without wiretap just for continuity sake. Approximately 50psi overall, 25psi primary, 70psi drive pressure, 1385 EGT. 1.4:1 ish PR.

That's a crazy low temp at 60 psi, I'd love to keep it that cool. How much boost would you see from your primary at 60 psi overall? Tomorrow after I replace my alternator and passenger side mirror, and install my eBay power mirror switch to get power mirrors, if I have enough time I might fix my exhaust drive pressure gauge and do some tinkering with the wastegate and see where I'm at. The last time I messed around with it I never checked drive pressure. Just boost overall vs primary.

I have, in the past, completely blocked off my wastegate boost reference hose and blown the gate open with exhaust drive pressure. Exhaust drive pressure will absolutely assist in opening the gate.

Not entirely true. Exhaust drive pressure definitely aids in opening the wastegate.

Without exhaust pressure, I'm not sure you will get an accurate indication of when it will open. I dont know what the correct procedure is for doing this though.

I'm not entirely sure. I guess if it was the APPS one would expect some sort of code.

Maybe check the electrical connector that plugs into the APPS, I think from the bottom?

Is there a button or lever to prime the system manually, like the old 12 valve lift pumps that were mounted on the drivers side of the block?

Those of you with compound turbos, what are you seeing for exhaust temperature at full throttle? At what point do you stop adding fuel and just accept the fact that you are out of air? Not concerned about drive pressure or turbo sizes at the moment, just exhaust temperature. For example, With DAP 7x.013 VCO nozzles set to pop around 315 Bar, with Max canbus fuel command and 1200us of wiretap, I'm seeing a peak of about 1355°F EGT at just over 60 psi. Without the wiretap, It's less than 1200° at 50 psi or so. Is it worth adding a little more wiretap?

I think you are testing the cable itself for damage, so it's best that it be unplugged from the VP44 and ECM. Someone that has performed these tests may say otherwise, but that's how I'd do it if I was looking for a short to ground.

I did a little bit of reading and it looks like it's mostly because the motor is already sort of braking when the throttle plate closes.

Mine is very close all the way to about 53 PSI where the quad maxes out.

Saw you post in an older thread, and according to that thread, you need to pull the shift tower.

@Towrigdually this is unrelated, but I noticed in your signature that you have lockers in the front and rear. I'm interested in what you found to fit the D60 front diff. Can you share some part numbers and details?

Here's a few links from a Google search. There's plenty more. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81139 http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128604 https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-24v-p-pump-conversion/1561586-8-3-cummins-ppump.html#/topics/1561586 Keep us posted if you decide to run with it, seems like a neat project if you can make it reliable. The only thing that I'd be concerned about is the static timing. I like me some dynamic timing. And the ability to make those adjustments on the fly. As far as reliability... My truck has already been pretty unreliable, so bring on the P-Pump haha.

Fair enough. Next time I hit the highway I'll try to remember to have a look. Edit: Next Post Have you changed anything on your tune lately? For example, a drop in the canbus fuel percentage settings at the boost PSI range you cruise in would force you to use more throttle to get the same amount of fuel.

There are so many variable that can skew that number. For example, you could easily be at 17% with a tailwind, turn around and have a headwind and be more than 24%.

I don't have anything helpful for you at the moment, but maybe check for blown fuses inside the truck and under the hood. I can't remember if both the ECM and PCM are fused in the interior.