Scottfunk

I'm not saying Jag1 is wrong but 1850 rpms is a special number for us swap guys. Have you contacted Bob Wagner? That dude is the man when it comes to ecm's. I had to relocate my apps because I needed the space where it lived for my ac compressor. I bought a Williams pedal with tps (and then another tps off eBay because the Williams one didn't have the idle validation circuitry) for under $60 and now my tps lives in the cab with me where it belongs. Every piece of heavy equipment, bus, tow truck I've ever seen has the tps inside and I gotta believe there's a reason.

@Fummins24v have you tried unplugging the pcm? If you unplug the pcm and it still acts like this then I'd say it is bad. The Cummins dealers agree bound by the EPA. Problem is some people don't know it. Soon as you start talking about passenger vehicles ears go up and doors slam shut. It's why I'm currently deep in thought about an Insite setup. Pull a couple of these irons outta the fire first.

Mossyoak71 already answered your question in the post above. Pin 6 on pcm must be grounded or you'll never get over 1900rpms. Sometimes it's better to listen (or read) rather than talk (or type). You'll get more help that way.

Maybe I'm just leaning on my own personal experience a bit heavily but this sounds a lot like the way my truck was when I got my ecm reprogrammed for automatic trans and I was trying to get it hooked up correctly. My ecm didn't care at all about the pcm when it was manual, then I had it recalibrated and it stopped right below 1900 rpms. The second I had the pcm wired in correctly the problem stopped. If it acts the same with and without pcm maybe there's a bad connection between the two.

Not exactly mossyoak71 . It's better by far but I still have to pop it out of gear if I'm stopping for more than just a second. I've learned to leave lots of space in front of me and I just creep while waiting for lights to change. It's not bad once you get used to it, it's just that I'm a perfectionist and it's far from perfect. The problem, I believe, is the stall rate on the torque converter. If I ever have to pull the tranny for any reason I'll probably swap it out. Even with the auto pcm it still wants to fuel up when I stop. Slow is fine, 2 mph no problem. Stop not so much. I've been daily driving it now for over a month and I love it. I still have a list of things that need done because I have a job, wife, and kids (that I want to keep), but like I said I'm a perfectionist so it'll probably never be "finished" just in a perpetual state of upgrade. Next on the list is emissions testing so I can get plates on her. And when it's too dark and cold to work outside I'm working on a climate control system that operates on a touch screen and requires no vacuum. I'll post it up when I have it running. Only time I ever saw intake valve seals like that was an old 327 I found sitting out in a field for "over 20 years" the old boy claimed. I'm guessing these weren't sitting quite that long.

@kzimmer your drawing led me to this. It's pretty rough cuz I'm at work but I think it might do the trick. Four transistors. This way if it's pwm I'm still in business. Since this motor only turns 90 degrees there's a good chance being able to control the rate of travel will come in handy. What does everyone think?

I'm still waiting on it to arrive but I don't see why it would need to be. Just has to go from point a to point b then stop. I think I can build the circuit @kzimmer drew and replace the coils with transistors. Basically create one path from positive to ground when one pin goes high and a different path (opposite) when another pin goes high. Thanks so much for the help I'll update when I get it worked out. I'm hoping to offer this as an upgrade to the old style lever system when it's done with the added bonus that it doesn't require vacuum

Actually that just might do it. It's probably a stepper motor which shouldn't need speed control only off and on. I'll try it out

Do you think there's a way to accomplish the same thing but with some transistors and a couple diodes? I don't think an arduino will even power a relay. The power I'm dealing with here if so small, plus I believe the motor is pwm which can be problematic through a relay.

I promise I'm bout trying to be dense here. I see how this circuit provides power too the wench, but on the negative side what is providing the ground? Is the 87a providing connecting to ground when the relay is not energized?

I'm asking this because I know there are a lot of tech savvy people on this forum. I'm building an arduino based climate control system for my Yukon because I no longer have vacuum. I have built an app to control the system that consists of three slider bars (fan speed, temperature control, and zone control.) Controlling the fan and the flapper door haven't proven to be too difficult, however the coolant diverter valve has turned out to be a different story. Does anybody have any useful suggestions about how to control this with an arduino? The tech guy from the company I talked to said the direction of the diverter valve is changed by changing polarity to the motor. Can this even be done with an arduino? And how do I boost the signal from the 3.3V coming out of the arduino to the 12-24V needed by the valve? The pot is just feedback to the arduino letting it know what position it's in, like a tps. It's mostly just the polarity swap I'm not sure how to do.

Maybe a little off topic here but I reckon it'll get the attention of the right folks here...I just completed my Cummins swap and I'm wiring in the dodge pcm to get through my emissions test. My question for you dodge can junkies is can my Allison tcm and the dodge pcm share the same obd plug? I have already checked and the same pins are used although I am not able to find out if the same pins are being used for the same functions or if that even matters. If they are both hooked up to the same obd will the emissions control equipment initiate communication with the pcm, and the efilive autocal I use to tune my transmission talk to the tcm, or will everything just end up a jumbled mess? I do know my tcm speaks j1939 but I'm not sure what protocol the autocal uses to communicate with the tcm. You guys will know far better than I what protocol is used by the dodge pcm at the obd plug. What do you think?

So I just got my computer back from Bob Wagner @smartysmartphones.com. He bench flashed it to an auto calibration for me and now I'm having the same problem as @mossyoak71 with the 1850 limit. I just started it the one time to test it but now I can't test it again because I have my hydraulic system out while I wait for my orbital valve input column. I'd like to add the wire while I wait from pin 6 at the ecm to my nsbu so the ecm sees ground in park but the logic of my nsbu switch doesn't have a condition that is ground only in park. Will it matter if the ecm sees ground in drive also? Does anyone have a logic chart for the nsbu on a 47?

Update: I have sent my ecm off to Bob Wagner of Smarty power.com to have it bench flashed for an automatic calibration. Not excited about being down another week but after a year what's one more week. At least I know it'll be done right. Bob is a legend.

I don't think I could sell my current axle as all the brackets have been stripped off and I have welded on all custom bracketry. The guy who is going to build my high steer setup is only charging me $200 for the machine work and the steering arm because he plans to sell mow of them in the future and just needed someone to send him an axle so he could mock up the first one. That's a hell of a deal for a onsoft.

I have an arrangement with a company in Virginia, fourwheelsupply.net to produce what I believe is the first mass produced Dodge Dana 60 ball joint high steer arm (say that 3 times fast). I will be offering them on my Facebook page, Idaho Diesel Conversions, at cost to help him recoup the r&d costs, and I'm sure he will also have them for sale in his online store.

Ok I found a guy in Virginia who's willing to do this on the cheap for me because he's had people ask in the past and never took the time. I'd like to come up with an extra knuckle to send him so I can continue building the hydro assist steering while he works on that. Anyone know of or have one I can get inexpensively?

I hope it doesn't matter but I actually have the GM compressor. It's mounted where you tps is at. The fitting going into the compressor is pretty specific but I think I can adapt it to something as long as I don't have to keep those big *** bulbs.

@Mopar1973Man I have two questions for you, the first of which applies to this topic so I'll post both here. Do you know of a good write up for removing the steering knuckle? Also, in my original GMC air conditioning hoses there were what I'm going to call expansion chambers right off of the compressor. These chambers are in conflict with the air intake horn with regards to space. Are these things necessary or can I have some hoses made to eliminate them?

@kzimmer Thanks so much for the advice on the tablet situation. Downloaded the macrodroid app and not input will it make the tablet start the app when it sees power on the USB port but it also starts up the Bluetooth connecting. Does the reverse pin power down. Real nice. Thanks again

So it wasn't the vss, it was the park signal? Needs to see ground in park? Pin 6 at the ecm? Sorry for the questions but I gotta get rid of my anti stall so I'll be going through the exact same thing in the next couple weeks.

That's weird. I don't even have a pcm and I don't have that issue. Must be part of the auto programming. Good to know in case I have that issue when I get me ecm reflashed. Please update with results

Like I said, they don't exist. The use of a track bar eliminates the need for high steer. I don't have a track bar therefore I have to eliminate bump steer some other way, such as drop Pitman and high steer to get a nearly flat drag link. I've got well over 3 grand in coilover shocks and heim joints so I'm not scrapping the entire front suspension. I'm asking for the opinion of some guys that might know the strengths and weaknesses of the Dodge Dana 60 for an opinion on a very specific operation that would help my situation. Thank you.

I got over 3 grand in this suspension (not including the axle) so I am definitely NOT going leaf spring. I like the CAD I'm going to get three cable operated kit so I don't have to get out in the snow to engage. @dripley she's called a Chummy